Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had my r32 GTR on 2 Dyno's

At croydon at all 4 wheels it had 139kw

At Unique Auto Sports it had 178kw at the rear wheels at 11psi boost (same as @ croydon)

At Unique Auto Sports it had 208kw at the rear wheels at 14psi boost

The only other mods the car has is exhaust and BOV.

I had my r32 GTR on 2 Dyno's

At croydon at all 4 wheels it had 139kw  

At Unique Auto Sports it had 178kw at the rear wheels at 11psi boost (same as @ croydon)

At Unique Auto Sports it had 208kw at the rear wheels at 14psi boost

The only other mods the car has is exhaust and BOV.

So at Croydon, where it made 139 awkw you were also running 11 psi boost? 40 kw seems like a big difference even taking into account the difference between 2 and 4 wd. Did you quiz them at all?

So at Croydon, where it made 139 awkw you were also running 11 psi boost?  40 kw seems like a big difference even taking into account  the difference between 2 and 4 wd. Did you quiz them at all?

Yeah I had 11psi boost at Croydon. I had only recently got my car so I was unsure of figures. They told me that was a fairly normal awdkw figure for a GTR. I thought it was a bit low thats why I had the car checked at Unique.

Yeah I had 11psi boost at Croydon. I had only recently got my car so I was unsure of figures. They told me that was a fairly normal awdkw figure for a GTR. I thought it was a bit low thats why I had the car checked at Unique.[/quote

This is really interesting. Prior to purchase I had my car dynoed at an independent 4 W dyno shop here in Canberra and it pulled 180 awkw. Yesterday at Silverwater Auto Services who apparently pride themselves on the accuracy of their dyno it pulled 130 awkw.

I know dynos aren't dynos but given that both runs were on the same boost, about 9 psi, this presents me with a bit of a dilemma because I don't know if there is a problem or not; 50 kW is a hell of a big drop although I note that it's about the same as the increase you experienced going from four-wheel to two wheel dynos. I really don't think it it was in 2wd mode the first time but it must've been.

Did the guys at Unique say anything about whether they felt that power readings there were fairly typical of what your car should be producing?

Yeah I had 11psi boost at Croydon. I had only recently got my car so I was unsure of figures. They told me that was a fairly normal awdkw figure for a GTR. I thought it was a bit low thats why I had the car checked at Unique.[/quote

This is really interesting. Prior to purchase I had my car dynoed at an independent 4 W dyno shop here in Canberra and it pulled 180 awkw. Yesterday at Silverwater Auto Services who apparently pride themselves on the accuracy of their dyno it pulled 130 awkw.

I know dynos aren't dynos but given that both runs were on the same boost' date= about 9 psi, this presents me with a bit of a dilemma because I don't know if there is a problem or not; 50 kW is a hell of a big drop although I note that it's about the same as the increase you experienced going from four-wheel to two wheel dynos. I really don't think it it was in 2wd mode the first time but it must've been.

Did the guys at Unique say anything about whether they felt that power readings there were fairly typical of what your car should be producing?[/quote]

does your car feel like it has lost a shitload of power since u have had it??

coz im oretty sure u would feel that sort of power loss?

does your car feel like it has lost a shitload of power since u have had it??

coz im oretty sure u would feel that sort of power loss?

Bretto;

No I didn't notice, I agree that I should / would have. But I suspect that the dyno here is optimistic.

Good news is that the problem has been found by the guys working on it. Would you believe the throttle wasn't opening all the way?! Checking for power loss Rule 1: Is the throttle opening fully? I guess neither they nor I believed that it could be the case but...there you go. Latest reading is 168 AWKW at Silverwater on standard boost ie .7 bar and with an exhaust. Doesn't explain the difference in inital readings, but I'm happy to put that down to an optimistic dyno here.

Thanks to everyone who responded.

i thought the figure was about 140 awkw standard. My r32 GTR started with about that figure then i added a power FC and full 3inch exhaust and got it tuned, gave me 180 awkw then i fit an AVCR, HKS filters and screwed it to 1bar boost and it gave me 210 awkw. I also read that GTR's pull 140 awkw in standard form in an issue of Hi Performance Imports.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Donut tried them out, they were fine as long as the bolt or nut wasn’t very tight 
    • It is a very complicated plastic tank. Sitting between the rear seats and the rear subframe. Requires a siphon venturi pump in the hat to suck the fuel from the passenger side to the driver side of the tank. The answer is probably prepping the tank very carefully to eliminate all fuel fumes, drilling any cracks to stop propagation, then plastic weld. I don't really see any other solution here. 
    • Does anyone know when your oil drops viscosity, if it is an issue? I imagine with tuned cars they will be overfueling more compared to a stock standard car and will thin out over time. 
    • anyone ever used these ? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/186214260439?_skw=socket+set&itmmeta=01JEG3TKV388ZXGP8N7CHNCQ45&hash=item2b5b3c1ed7:g:mhAAAOSwwB9lf~Xm&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwHoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKkJwJeiNMm%2FsStacz%2BhjzBowaFnbNCowwe08vVGrW0FbesCs%2Flw%2FQYjDQLjKsuKvgysWT9%2F4b9AZUX3qLP5RDfFhtD8DxufvqBbyZrQAQXuG3h8%2BxxqhWhH8fIfU84eA9W7VIpxDNw9MWj9BdfkkMasYhcqOjTrcKwLyD3ftzZbaZb2Us7%2FFR1Q2kcT68ZYRU77%2F%2BtRr1qBS27BXxh%2FjWBQxhWyUcLlEFIb%2BITZPIKwxQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABlBMUOy96oP0ZA   I believe the idea being, the rods push back around the shape of whatever nut you put in there. Sounds pretty handy to just need to carry 1x socket in the car for 'most sizes'  but, theory vs reality, anyone tried them?
    • I'm not that familiar with R33 tanks. Plastic? Up behind the rear seat between the towers? Or under the boot floor like a normal car? It's the battery that's up between the towers isn't it? So, plastic tanks. Well, um. The obvious reco is plastic welding, which you'd only look at asking someone who's really good at to contemplate trying. The fuel contamination and grot is probably going to make it quite difficult though. Whether plastic or steel - the end of the crack will want to be drilled before any welding or sealing is done. Otherwise it will just continue to wander along until something bad happens. Steel tank? The obvious answer is drain, wash, purge with inert gas and drill the crack end and weld/braze/silver solder/whatever the guys who do that to fuel tanks recommend. I had a crack/hole/leak in the bottom of a Commodore tank (oe was it my ALFA? - can't remember) that I slammed some gorilla snot onto and it never leaked again. It worked surprisingly well. Or, it's time to fab a new tank.
×
×
  • Create New...