Jump to content
SAU Community

Wiring In Boost Solenoid For Link G4 Plugin On Rb25

robbo_rb180
 Share

Recommended Posts

robbo_rb180 Grand Master

robbo_rb180

Posted
Posted

I am about to wire in a solenoid for my rb25, the factory wiring has been removed/shortened/missing.

I have found the factory output wire on the ecu connector but need +12V Ign.

Am I able to use either pin 49/59 as they are switched from eccs relay for the +12V or am I better of running a wire from the Ignition?

robbo_rb180 Grand Master

robbo_rb180

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Why not look at the original wiring diagram?

As above, wire the mac valve to the original solenoid wiring

got the diagrams and looked over them that's not the issue

who ever did the engine conversion originally, removed half the pins from the engine loom.

I've got the wire on the ecu for the solenoid now I just need +12V. just wanted to keep it neat by using a +12v from ecu

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

But that's the point. Find out, from the original wiring diagrams, where the factory sourced their 12V from, and do the same as that. They won't have done whatever they did for a bad reason. They would have done it for a good reason. If you source it from the ECU you might introduce some nasty noise into the ECU (from the valve square waving on and off) or you might draw more current than it can handle on that line or any number of other foreseeable (or not foreseeable) possible bad things.

Follow the factory's lead, avoid those possible problems.

  • 5 months later...
B-rice Mentor

B-rice

Posted
Posted

Just another question does the MAC solenoid have an outputing voltage or its and inputing voltage. Im asking this because if i sourced the 12V IGN source from the factory solenoid. Where does the second wire go analog/ digital input or ???

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

The solenoid doesn't care how it is switched. You could either give it permanent 12V on one side and switch it on the earth side, or give it permanent earth on one side and switch 12V onto it from the other.

BUUUUUT...... What really matters is how the ECU wants to switch it. And from what your first post says (assuming you're correct), the ECU will switch the earth side of the solenoid to earth. So the second wire from the MAC valve just connects to the boost control pin on the ECU.

B-rice Mentor

B-rice

Posted
Posted

ok i wasnt understanding how it was completing the circuit without the ground. So its connected by 12v then the second wire goes to the ecu boost controll pin. How is the ECU controlling the solenoid, is it applying varied voltage to the solenoid.

B-rice Mentor

B-rice

Posted
Posted

nah this is a different case i have stock wiring. Went to a local meet and was told the same to use stock wiring where the old one was located so thats good if said more than once. Just didnt want to start another thread. Not sure if using thw stock will support the boost by gear functions but for now im happy will just wire it on the stock solenoid

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      New lightweight, square wheel/tyre combo for the E90

      By PranK · Posted

      Ok cool, because I do have some OEM BMW options for light(er) wheels. 17x8.5 M Sport wheels are 11kg and I could put 255's on them. Maybe that's an initial test.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So, in the effort of pulling apart airboxes and testing enclosures to see if this aids in MAP loss at WOT I noticed: 1) The ducts up the OEM intercooler holes from the front bar help IAT drastically, whether the pod is shielded from the engine bay by an airbox missing a lid, or an airbox WITH a lid. Plus you get more induction sound without the lid. Having half the airbox (with no lid) acting as a barrier to the headers seems to help. 2) For shits and giggles I checked the TB. This was full pedal travel. This is actually full travel of the TB. Photos aren't perfect, but there was definitely an amount of play in it and it wasn't against the stop. After much swearing and adjusting the pedal, I realised that the cable is actually too long for the skyline pedal travel to fully articulate it. Having the pedal adjusted so WOT was actually hard open on WOT resulted in an idle of 3500rpm. As an aside, this was also the TPS registering at 3.1%. I removed the above to give the pedal enough travel to actually fully open the TB. I now get a satisfying 'thonk' on full open and full closed which you can hear pumping the pedal as it hits the TB stops (with the bonnet open and intake back on). Luckily for me, the screw screws into a raised metal boss under this plastic piece that is now acting as the new throttle stop. I've gained about 20mm (ish) of pedal travel and I can move it maybe a mm or two post open-thonk before it's hard against the stop. After all of this I did a bit of road tuning because a 102MM throttle is sensitive. The difference between holding an 950rpm idle and instantly stalling is about 0.4% of TPS movement. Will that help? I suppose it can't hurt. I set 'closed' point back to where it was, I can definitely feel the extra pedal travel that is needed to actually open the TB fully. But this morning I dropped the car off at Paint Jail again, so who knows when this will re-eventuate out to see if it helps with the top of the dyno hitting a ceiling.
    • Kinkstaah
      Looking for someone with a R34 front bar

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Take heart that everyone else seems to have found a way. The OEM S1 indicators do slot in pretty firmly. It may simply be a case of having them sit slightly looser and nobody actually ever noticed this when attempting to remove a indicator from a JSAI bar :p
    • GTSBoy
      34 de+t conversion using s2 stagea automatic transmission, engine harness and ecu

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If the original NA ECU has a separate TCU then you are going to need to reroute wires that used to run between the trans and the TCU to the appropriate (1 to 1 equivalent) pins on the ECU. Other than that, it should work. Look up posts by @Kinkstaah on the subject.
    • albyz34gt
      34 de+t conversion using s2 stagea automatic transmission, engine harness and ecu

      By albyz34gt · Posted

      So the stagea was a series 2 neo det with tiptronic auto. (I have the transmission aswell) and has integrated tcu in the ecu. I'm hoping to use the entire stagea ecu, engine and auto harness. 
×
×
  • Create New...