Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So i know how it works...its just that the only person i know who has even ran this setup had cooling problems when at Oran Park...not sure if its a setup thing or more of an application thing.

Anyway next week im looking to put on an electric thermo fan, and tempted to put the electric water pump on as well, as my currrent one has 80,000kms on it and it needed replacing at 90,000kms.

So anyone wiht experirences with the electric water pump, and maybe even give me some feedback on the Davis Craig electric fan they are running?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42555-davis-craig-ewp/
Share on other sites

The early EWP had some reliability problems. I don’t know what they are like these days. (everybody that got them didn’t use them again after they died). Not sure what the RB motors need in terms of CFM flow, but the Davies crag EWP could not pump enough cfm for a Holden V8. It pumped nowhere near as much as a belt driven pump. No worries if it’s a drag car only, but if it’s a streeter……

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42555-davis-craig-ewp/#findComment-870387
Share on other sites

mmmm, sounds like i should be sticking with the crappy viscous fan then.... so its the application more then the installation.

Toying with the idea of new radiator, but its the sort of thing that i dont want to spend the money on if its hold coolant temperatures at an acceptable level.

Just trying to get rid of some of the inertia on the engine, water pump, fans, pullies if ican find some...anyone tried RB26 pulleys on an RB20 (Or more RB26 pulleys be used on an RB30DET?) Just lightened and standard drive ratios

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42555-davis-craig-ewp/#findComment-870530
Share on other sites

Id always assume the parts on the rb26's are better (no bias here :)) Id assume their all the same arnt they? RB20 one has 3 ribbed belts, but rb30 is different though with 1 v groove in the centre.

Interesting though i noticed when my motor was being balanced they took a bit of material off the pulley (rb20 one on rb31det) must be out of kilter after being 10 years old...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42555-davis-craig-ewp/#findComment-870551
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hey guys been looking everywhere to try and find the correct gtr hood latch support part number but only found the first half and when I search with that number it sends me to an r34. The first part I found was 62515. If anyone could help me with the rest then I’d really appreciate it. Or if there’s some alternative hood latch support that would work even better cause I can’t find any for sale. (Searched on upgarage, partsouq,buyee,rhdjapan) 
    • If you've only done the upper control arms on the rear, AND you have changed their length (by more than about 1mm) to set the camber you want, then you will definitely need/want to install traction arms also. Adjusting the camber arms on their own WILL introduce bump steer and make the car unpleasant to drive. Most owners have no idea that their car could behave infinitely better than what they put up with. I'm not entirely sure what the Stageas need, but I am thinking that unless you have massive front spring rates and pretty soft rear springs, you have waaaay too much rear bar. Oversteer city, in my estimation. Combined with possible excessive bump steer from maladjusted arms, that could be a recipe for nastiness. ATR43SS2 is not a highflow. It is an outright replacement turbo. It's a little bit bigger than the largest highflow profile that Tao does. Probably a solid 300rwkW turbo where the bigger highflows will be about 30-40rwkW less. Nevertheless, we're only talking about ~300 rwkW, which is well within the abilities of the stock ECu to run with a Nistune on board. I would do so without hesitation - and I will be doing so when I get my finger out and actually get the injectors and AFM installed. But, if you would prefer to drop a whole lot more money on the ECU side, then I suspect you're looking at Haltech. The Haltech fanbois here will all spout on about all the available engine protection you can have, that you can't have with the Nistune option. And they're right. But it doesn't really come for free either. You will spend more money on extra sensors and the like, plus the work to install them. If the engine was built and therefore represented a big investment to protect, then I'd say definitely do it. If you view the current (and forever into the future) shortage of replacement engines as something to prompt similar protection, then also, do it. If you see a destroyed RB25 as an opportunity to put in a Mercedes or other V12 (like I kinda do)... then your perception of the risk/reward might differ. These are good injectors. You can also get a "better" set of the same with more flow matching, for more $$. 1000cc is where you will want to be. You will need an R35 AFM and adapter tube if you want to stay with Nistuned stock ECU. Otherwise, if going Haltech, you can ignore. As for intercooler. Just about anything will do. You're only talking about ~300rwkW. Just put a big core in there. Be aware that return flows do add significant pressure drop and will cost power and will make the turbo work harder to achieve the same goals. If you can manage a proper crossflow, do it. I'm keeping my very good return flow because I'm only expecting to be in the ~250rwkW range, and will live with whatever outcome I get.
    • I have a heap that i have collected if you want some authentic ones still. Pm me if your interested!
×
×
  • Create New...