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RB20DET Engine (no turbo, no coilpacks, no power steering pump, no aircon compressor and no starter motor) comp test 130 PSI across cold, removed for RB25 conversion. - PRICE DROP $400

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RB20DET Gearbox (average condition, second gear synchro is pretty shot it's fine when rev matching though.. gearbox whine in 1st and 2nd gear's) removed for RB25 conversion, includes RB20 Clutch Slave - PRICE DROP $100

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RB20DET Driveshaft (good condition) removed for RB25 conversion - PRICE DROP $50


RB20DET / 25 S1 Throttle Position Sensor - PRICE DROP $20

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RB20DET Radiator + Shroud - No leaks, no corrosion, removed for Aluminium Radiator Upgrade - PRICE DROP $60

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RB20 Clutch Master Cylinder - PRICE DROP $20

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RB20 Clutch Slave Cylinder - PRICE DROP $10

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Exterior;


Front bar as pictured (pretty average condition, would suit drift pig) - PRICE DROP $20

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LH + RH Doors (Gunmetal Grey), average condition, includes windows and everything else found in the door, includes door skins - PRICE DROP $100 FOR BOTH!


LH + RH Guards in average condition (Gunmetal Grey)- SOLD PENDING PAYMENT AND PICKUP


R32 GTR N1 STYLE Headlights (can't confirm if genuine), Immaculate - PRICE DROP $200 pair

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Exhaust;


RB26 FRONT PIPES (twin 2.5" inlets to 3" rear) contact damage with ground - PRICE DROP - $FREE


Suspension;


HCR32 OEM Camber Arms - PRICE DROP $20

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HCR32 OEM Castor Arms - PRICE DROP $50


Driftworks HICAS Lockout Kit, BYO bolt's etc - PRICE DROP $100


Interior;


Skyline Door Trims (kick panels), both in good condition - PRICE DROP $10 pair

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Sparco Pedals + OEM Pedal Box's, Clutch, Accelerator and Brake - PRICE DROP $60

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R32 GTR NISMO CLUSTER 260kph / 10k rpm ODO 78568 - PRICE DROP $250

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R32 Ash Tray - PRICE DROP $20

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Apexi Pen Turbo Timer - PRICE DROP $40

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Drift Button GK TECH - PRICE DROP $5

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Wheels;


Work VS-MX 17 x 8 +22 and 17 x 9 +22 pcd 5x114.3 & 4x114.3 17 x 8 +22. No buckles, wheels have rash as pictured. These are genuine 3 piece items, i bought them with the intention to rebuild with larger lips. The front's require spacers to clear 32 GTR brakes.

The 8's come wrapped in 205/40r17 as pictured. The rears are in similar condition, have more dish and no tyres. - PRICE DROP $1000 ono

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Rays Gram Lights 17 x 9.5 + 36 PAIR ONLY(tyres are dead) - PRICE DROP $350

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Random parts;


R32 GTR Resistor Pack (to run 32 GTR Injectors on a RB20) homemade - PRICE DROP $30

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SCA Engine Crane as new! used once then stored in garage! - PRICE DROP $200

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K&N Intake Pod Filters suit RB26 - PRICE DROP $30


S13 / 180SX SR20 Oil feed hardline, not leaking bought as a fix for my old leaking one - PRICE DROP $20

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Feel free to make any offers, want this stuff gone! Willis.

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    • The two diagrams are equivalent. The R32 one is just one sheet out of about 3 showing everything in the whole car all at once. And without knowing the functionality that occurs in the modules, they are both equally opaque.
    • 8v - 2.48ms 9v - 2.15ms 10v - 1.74ms 11v - 1.41ms 12v - 1.15ms 13v - 0.99ms 14v - 0.89ms 15v - 0.82ms 16v - 0.81ms I'm running these values on my RB20 Neo with 570cc Denso R35 stock jets and it's great. Also bought a set for my Legnum VR4, love these injectors!
    • Thanks for your reply,  Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!  
    • So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
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