Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i just wanted some feedback on importing a skyline (just because it looks a looks a lot cheaper and would like 1 with low km. and very good condition. im a mechanic by trade so i know what looks like crap. so thats why im fussy

i have been doing my home work and have found prestige motor sport are they any good ?

what costs are hidden and what should a look out for.

thanks for your help and i look forward to next writing about improvments to my new car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42572-help-me-please-on-buying-a-import/
Share on other sites

Im currently going through Prestige in importing my 95 model R33. I actually looked at prestige for quite sometime, and its good to also be on the email list with Geoff, as you can keep track of whats available.

You do save abit, depending what your car comes with and it also depends on the exchange rate.

Cheers

As of this point in time, these are my costs so far:

*95 model R33 GTST: 490,000 JPN YEN : $6,282 @ ($1AUS To 78 YEN)

*Telegraphic transfer for payment to Japan: $28

*Postage of MD/CD head deck & shift knob: $100 (Came with some funky Japanese catalogues, I love jap car audio :rofl: )

*Geoff's fee: $1100

*Compliance cost downpayment: $1,000

So far we total $8,510 AUD

Still got to pay for:

*Rest of compliance: $3, 500

*Shipping: Aprox $1,200 (Shipping done by NYK Line from Jap - Syd)

*Customs agent fee

*Stamp duty , GST and that other b/s government stuff....

*Rego & Insurance

Should total around the 17k mark with 3rd party property insurance (Just car) and 12 months rego ;)

Hope that helps, once I get everything paid for, ill give you an exact figure down to the cent...

Cheers

490000Y is a bit much for an 1995 R33 innit (i'm assuming its a series 1.5)? but then again, it looks clean and you did get a fair few goodies.

Good luck on the import and welcome to the forums :rofl:

sean there's not really much hidden costs with prestige n j-spec as they run a sort of transparent business where you see all their costs.

Just using this as an example and not saying that this is how it works:

*95 model R33 GTST: 490,000 JPN YEN : $6,282 @ ($1AUS To 78 YEN)

I'd say the 490,000 includes the deregistration of the car in japan, the cost to transport the car to the port where the ship leaves from, degassing the AC (as required by the new laws) and the agent fee for finding and handling the car.

When you deduct all that the actual cost of the car is slightly less. But overall it makes no change to the cost wheter you get itemised billin or a total bill etc.

490000Y is a bit much for an 1995 R33 innit (i'm assuming its a series 1.5)? but then again, it looks clean and you did get a fair few goodies.

Good luck on the import and welcome to the forums :rofl:

sean there's not really much hidden costs with prestige n j-spec as they run a sort of transparent business where you see all their costs.

Just using this as an example and not saying that this is how it works:

*95 model R33 GTST: 490,000 JPN YEN : $6,282 @ ($1AUS To 78 YEN)

I'd say the 490,000 includes the deregistration of the car in japan, the cost to transport the car to the port where the ship leaves from, degassing the AC (as required by the new laws) and the agent fee for finding and handling the car.

When you deduct all that the actual cost of the car is slightly less. But overall it makes no change to the cost wheter you get itemised billin or a total bill etc.

Pretty much the 490,000 is FOB and all that you stated, however the de-gassing and regassing is actually getting done by my compliance shop, as they have a liscence to do so. And on top of the 490,000 I pay Geoff $1,100 AUD.

the car needs to be degassed before it arrives in australia... that's the rules. and you pay his fee all up before you get the car? no 50% now 50% later business?

Another Question about your import, whats the deal with all the mods, I assume they have to be replaced by standard skyline parts to meet the new compliance rules? How does that work and what did it cost you, as I would like to import something with some goodies. :rofl: :wassup:

Bepo

Funkymonkey: Basically its like a steping stone, you pay each step of the way. ie when car lands in Aus, you pay for shipping, customs agent etc....

So since my car hasnt landed and got cleared, I havent payed for shipping and all the rest yet, just payed Geoff his fee, compliance downpayment, car cost and postage for my Head deck & shifter.

Car can be de & re gassed in Aus, if the compliance company has a permit to do so. I suppose you can get it done in Japan, but at your own expense. My compliance fee includes the de & re gassing of the air con. You do pay Geoff his fee all up, well I did anyway, I never considered 50/50 but hey, doesnt harm to ask...

Bepo: As for the mods, basically you have to replace them with stockos like you were saying. Ill be getting everything replaced down to stock from a work shop, well apart from the window tinting but i think window tints are ok. After compliance, gonna get my car back to the way it was...

Hope that helps :)

i think a lot of people forget, that even after compliance.. stamp duty, rego, and other onroad costs can push the price up by another $1000 -> $1500 (depending on state).

also 4x new tyres I believe =~ $800 for cheapies.

All these little "extras" can soon addup.

AHHH, so what your saying is that the workshop replaces all the parts, comply's the vehicle then puts all the goodies back on.  How did it only cost you the rims?  Do the workshops use the same standard parts for a number of vehicles?

Bepo

Workshop is actually looking for standard rims to compliance R33's so they asked me if I wanted to trade it off for unbolting the mods, replacing them with factory items, then rebolting them on after compliance. Im pretty sure the workshops will use the same standard parts over and over for compliance at a cost, however mine just costs the set of wheels which I were really only going to sell anyhow...

The law states that if the car has R12 gas in it it has to be de-gased before it comes to Australia from the 1st of April 2004, I know prestige motor sport de-gas the car for you before it is shipped as they have that on their pages.

You have to pay $1,100 for the de-gas and re-gas, you don't have to re-gas here in Australia though, but would be silly not to.

You can get around the de-gas/re-gas if you have it before a certain time or have a special deal.

Was at a complenice place today asking about the de-gas/re-gas and the girl didn't know much about it but she said they are still doing cars where they don't have to de-gas/re-gas but soon they'll have to, they also have a lic to do gassing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Rob It's a nistune ecu. Yes same shop, good reputation. Apparently the computer on the dyno is compensated for temperature.    Chris was saying that the lean or richness of the mixture would be covered in the actual tune, but he's already picking up in advance that it's under what it should be. Regards the dyno, it's also noticeable on the road. But I just want to add something that has just come in, it appears there might be something in the setup of the external wastegate. In the exhaust manifold there is a centre divider between the front three and rear three cylinders. The external wastegate has a pipe from each side that join at the wastegate. Theory is those two pipes just might be pypassing that divider and introducing a problem somehow. Is anyone familiar with the divider in the exhaust manifold and the effects if the two wastegate pipes were to create a bypass path? Thanks for your questions Rob, interested in your thoughts on this external wastegate bypass theory. Regards Rob
    • Meh, At 60 years old, I have been doing dumb stuff for much longer than you mate, I am the true King And unfortunately I cannot be a maroon, as I am not brownish red As for not getting ITB's, the plenum intake will apparently show typical gains across the board and increase induction noise a bit, but, have all over less dort than ITB's Cost difference for the extra ITB dorts was significant though, the total parts for the plenum set up is "around" $2kAUD plus shipping, the ITB's were $4kAUD plus shipping, I was contemplating really hard about paying the extra $2k for all of the dorts, but weirdly, some form of common sense, from listening to the platform experts prevailed  As for the NA mod hate by some, I've had a few boosted cars, with all their inherent issues, I'm now looking at simplicity and legalities for a street car, maybe I'm just getting old, and I'm quite happy to spend some of the kids inheritance, 5kw at a time 🤣 And think of all the money I'll be saving on consumables that something with boost needs, like engines, gearboxes, diffs, clutches,  tilt trays... etc. etc. etc. 🤪
    • Haha.  I wouldn't say I am either but I've definitely been around it plenty.  I'm guessing you know the dial in is basically to make a handicap to level the playing field between racers.  The car with the slower dial in goes first and in theory if they run their dial in time and the faster car also does then they cross the finish time if they also have exactly the same reaction time - if you go faster than the dial in them you lose, but if you are too slow there's a good chance the other person will get to the finish line first. I'm normally supporting other cars but they were all pretty dialled and were egging me on to race as well, here's one of the cars I tune (Starlet) which ran within like 1 hundredth of its dial in through the competition: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inEBu-d9Gn4&t=69s
    • Where ever the fuel reg gets it reference is what I use to T into for map reference been a very long time so where it goes to plenum/runners I have no idea but never had issues. 
    • What ecu? Same shop every time? Same ambient temperature? If timing is correct then pull plugs and see if lean or rich. Dyno can also read different if they have changed ramp rate or not set tacho/speed properly  
×
×
  • Create New...