Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I took this screenshot from the current tune in my car. After reading some online sources about power fc tuning, I recalled these settings and from what I have read, they should not have been changed. From what I know, these settings are used to alter the AFM calibration if it has been housed in a different sized tube to what it comes with standard. My car is running in the standard afm housing with 3" piping infront and to the turbo. According to what I have read, these settings should not have been changed. When I got this tuned the second time(the current tune), we didn't think to check this tab and it was only weeks after we had noticed it. Now its been a year later and I'm looking to try do some DIY tuning to help increase the fuel economy on my car and just eliminate some knock in the upper end.

If I changed this back to default; 100 all the way down, will it throw out the tune, mainly the injector map? My car is a standard motor with the SS2 turbo and supporting mods with the Z32 AFM.

Thanks all.

post-68383-0-65051600-1369275711_thumb.jpg

Yes it will alter your tune. Your fuel map references the airflow values vs load and that's how it knows how much fuel to throw in.

If u have a wide band setup it's very easy to see how changing those values affects ur tune. Ie ur fuel map may say 14.7 afr reality is that it's 14.2 so u tune the corresponding afm voltage up or down till the fuel map matches reality.

Isn't what you said about altering the afm voltage about altering the air flow curve table? The air flow curve table lets you see the load point then alter the air flow voltage at that point. The part I'm picking on is the top part where you select the AFM you want and the numbers next to it. Everything Ive read said to leave those at default 100 when using the chosen AFM in the standard diameter housing.

it's because some tuners bend the AFM scaling to tune the car rather than set the injection table... not sure if it comes to preference or sheer laziness, I've always had mine all default and adjusted the injection table to suit (back in the days when I did road tuning for myself)

are you having issues with the way the air flow curve goes down the map during a power run ? or cruising?

if everything is working fine then just leave it and fix the issues you have.

or re-set the pfc and start again. i used to play with the air flow curves, but i had a q45 afm and major reversion issues.

Issues are with cruising. My wideband shows a pretty rich mix 12 to 13 cruising.. If I did want to start again would I be safe to use the current ignition table? Really have no problem with power its just the way it skulls down fuel and I am a pretty calm low rpm driver. Haven't had a chance to do any logging yet to see what's going on with air flow curves and load.

It wouldn't be hard to drop the voltage but I think its more thsn just dropping it. I'd suspect it has to be scaled to 0 to 1v. Ive got a bung at home and should have my o2 sensor which is almost brand new so I'll try get it mated up. If fuel eco doesn't change much ill try do some leaning to the cruise charts. Ill upload a screenshot of the table ive worked on so far.

http://www.schnitzracing.com/manuals/AEMWBK.pdf

Page 9 of the manual states that P4 on the rotary switch is 0-1V output. I thought it had narrowband simulation built in... Try it out...

anyways I suggest you turn off O2 feedback on the PowerFC and tune the A/F so it's stoich on cruise and light throttle.. once that's all set up just plug up the stock O2 and see if it still reaches stoich.. if not it's time for a new stock O2

are you having issues with the way the air flow curve goes down the map during a power run ? or cruising?

if everything is working fine then just leave it and fix the issues you have.

or re-set the pfc and start again. i used to play with the air flow curves, but i had a q45 afm and major reversion issues.

How did you sort reversion issues? My air filters sound like Darth Vadar the way they breath in and out

I haven't loaded this tune yet, I'm going off current actual afr's and looked at another tune I found of a car with similar mods. I didn't make significant changes but what I tried to do was get everything flowing smoothly and evenly.

I'll need to do some more logging see what cells are being hit the most during common, light use and work with those but overall I think if it blends in more evenly and consistantly, it should run smoother and there won't be such drastic changes in afr's when cruising.

post-68383-0-62440200-1369371254_thumb.jpg

Issues are with cruising. My wideband shows a pretty rich mix 12 to 13 cruising.. If I did want to start again would I be safe to use the current ignition table? Really have no problem with power its just the way it skulls down fuel and I am a pretty calm low rpm driver. Haven't had a chance to do any logging yet to see what's going on with air flow curves and load.

well stop looking soo much into it and just adjust the areas of the map that need weaking and lean it off. leave everything else the way it is. why touch something thats not broke ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...