Jump to content
SAU Community

Carbon Fibre Or Fibre Glass Parts 180Sx,s15,r32,r33,r34,r35,evo


Longz

Recommended Posts

Is it possible to get a front splitter unertray made up for a r33 gts-t series 2. I'm also interested in the b pillar covers and maybe a pillar 60mm twin gauge holder. Guessing there is no radiator

Cooling panel for a series 2? Who do I transfer money to ? Pm me please

Cheers Josh.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

PM Sent Josh

Memphisxxx1 : Only r32 gts unfortunatly

List so far : will send pm for confirmations once group buy date is near end.

Longz : R34 GTR Nismo Side skirts , Rear pods , Canards, exhaust shroud cooling panel and rear diffuser, EVO side skirts, canards, rear exhaust shroud

haz_jaz : skirts/pods and CF Wing blade for R34 GTR

Terry_GT-R34 : EVO Skirt Add-ons , Radiator Cooling Panel, Rear Boot Spoiler Lip

jase_c : R34 Gtt radiator cooling panel

DeaN20 : R32 GTR radiator cooling panel

Charles89 : R34 GTT CF radiator cooling panel

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hi mate I need heaps of bits for my r33 gtst but need them all in carbon fiber. If you can PM me a price for each item that would be great thanx mate

rear diffuser,

bonnet lip,

front bar lip or front diffuser with front lip

flush boot/trunk,

A pillar 2 gauge pod

B pillar covers

and any interior bits in carbon fibre

Link to comment
Share on other sites

R33 Hood \ Bonnet Lip $80 Cf

R33 Carbon oem trunk $320 ES-Style $400

A Pillar 52/60mm $120

B Pillar Cover - $70

R33 Centre console armrest in CF for $90

joelsy777 : seems like no rear diffuser or front lips only in GTR will confirm soon.

Mclarenmercman : no 370gt but there is maxima not sure if there the same?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Longz : R34 GTR Nismo Side skirts , Rear pods , Canards, exhaust shroud cooling panel and rear diffuser, EVO side skirts, canards, rear exhaust shroud

haz_jaz : skirts/pods and CF Wing blade for R34 GTR

Terry_GT-R34 : EVO Skirt Add-ons , Radiator Cooling Panel, Rear Boot Spoiler Lip

jase_c : R34 Gtt radiator cooling panel

DeaN20 : R32 GTR radiator cooling panel

Charles89 : R34 GTT CF radiator cooling panel

Sinno: Evo rear diffuser and canards.

Some guy: 370z lip + skirts

Link to comment
Share on other sites

R33 Hood \ Bonnet Lip $80 Cf

Pillar 52/60mm $120

B Pillar Cover - $70

R33 Centre console armrest in CF for $90

ill take the items listed above and wondering if the gtr rear and front diffuser and gtr lip fit on gtst ?

how do i pay and whens the ETA for these parts?

thanx mate

Link to comment
Share on other sites

joelsy777: bank deposit once group buy is ready, eta will be before September 1st. or however fast we get more people

sonnyq: sorry no impul styres it seems URAS and veilside only.

Charcles89 : only seem to have GTR nismo rear pods - possibly some DIY to fit correctly ?

List so far:

Longz : R34 GTR Nismo Side skirts , Rear pods , Canards, exhaust shroud cooling panel and rear diffuser, EVO side skirts, canards, rear exhaust shroud

haz_jaz : skirts/pods and CF Wing blade for R34 GTR

Terry_GT-R34 : EVO Skirt Add-ons , Radiator Cooling Panel, Rear Boot Spoiler Lip

jase_c : R34 Gtt radiator cooling panel

DeaN20 : R32 GTR radiator cooling panel

Charles89 : R34 GTT CF radiator cooling panel

Sinno: Evo rear diffuser and canards.

Some guy: 350z lip + skirts

joelsy777 : R33 hood bonnet lip.60mm Pillar gauge cover,B Pillar cover, Centre console arm rest

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The two diagrams are equivalent. The R32 one is just one sheet out of about 3 showing everything in the whole car all at once. And without knowing the functionality that occurs in the modules, they are both equally opaque.
    • 8v - 2.48ms 9v - 2.15ms 10v - 1.74ms 11v - 1.41ms 12v - 1.15ms 13v - 0.99ms 14v - 0.89ms 15v - 0.82ms 16v - 0.81ms I'm running these values on my RB20 Neo with 570cc Denso R35 stock jets and it's great. Also bought a set for my Legnum VR4, love these injectors!
    • Thanks for your reply,  Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!  
    • So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
×
×
  • Create New...