Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

nitto stroker kit

nitto oil pump

nitto head gasket

rrr racing block

peterson dry sump

head package through crd, dirt garage or equivalent.

ross or ati balancer

arp studs throughout

adjustable cam gears

hks t51r turbo

id2000 injectors

larger fuel rail

or

RIPS engine package

or, let us know your goals and budget.

will help decide what to do.

Ive so far purchased cp forged pistons,spool rods,acl bearings,arp studs all round,jun oil pump, just need ideas on cam duration/lift and valve springs also what turbo to run with to get the most out the 26.

all good.

id love to be able to afford their gear too.

maybe one day.

maybe not.

theres a thread currently discussing pretty much this.

cant remember exactly where, bit some were saying you can get a racepace engine(yours rebuilt by them)for 10k incl parts and labour.

may be worth freighting it?

do you need turbo setup?

do you need fuel system?

now we know a rough budget, what do you want/need and what power goals are you aiming for?

Ive so far purchased cp forged pistons,spool rods,acl bearings,arp studs all round,jun oil pump, just need ideas on cam duration/lift and valve springs also what turbo to run with to get the most out the 26.

twins or single?

Be interested in looking into that thread if you happen to come across it.

Im hoping to get enough help through this thread from past experience builds so i know which direction on parts selection i should take on getting good power from a budget.

Am looking at getting rid of the twins and going single so turbo choice also would help.

  • 2 weeks later...

nitto stroker kit

nitto oil pump

nitto head gasket

rrr racing block

peterson dry sump

head package through crd, dirt garage or equivalent.

ross or ati balancer

arp studs throughout

adjustable cam gears

hks t51r turbo

id2000 injectors

larger fuel rail

or

RIPS engine package

or, let us know your goals and budget.

will help decide what to do.

Jesus creepers Luke! RRR block itself is rare as hens teeth yet alone $10k+ to procure .

be better off just getting N1 block from Just Jap cost like 2.6K.

I was under the impression that Dan was not doing engines and ERD anymore? Health Issues Maybe from what I recall?

Dan is still building engines as a sort of private on the side setup, from what i gather, but ERD itself is no more.

Probably a lot less messing around only doing engines.

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • These are small points I should actually add to my original post. GKtech makes an extended slave line for this conversion. It's what I use, and it works well. You'll also need a CD009 slave cylinder.  S/R Chassis Z33/Z34 Conversion braided clutch line As for transmission sensors, you'll need to both extend the wiring and replace the connectors. I can't recall which is which, but one is your neutral switch and the other the reverse switch. As they are just switches, just test for continuity with your transmission in neutral or reverse to figure out which is which. Connectors:  VQ35 neutral Switch Connector | Wiring Specialties VQ35 Reverse Switch Connector | Wiring Specialties 
    • I’ll try and see it could be the release bearing. As for the 4th gear grind maybe clutch doesn’t disengage properly cause it is slightly like very slightly hard to go into first could be due to the slab cylinder pin being short uni clutch is a twin plate.   Ive attached some assembly photos hopefully you can open the link and see maybe detect what’s wrong https://share.icloud.com/photos/0dc2YvW__Hl6jl-l2_0jejjpg https://share.icloud.com/photos/09e0jkWOK-vP48c1cfY6u3ViA https://share.icloud.com/photos/0b4rDmh5R7pK7fb1VtND73a3g https://share.icloud.com/photos/05eeUi_6dC4DVi80jOUYDgb0g https://share.icloud.com/photos/06335TgY1XxyIJal_wkdQLhzw
    • Yeah for sure that is peddle adjustment 
    • What are your thoughts on this after having it for a while, worth getting?
    • Downshifts are harder on transmissions than upshifts, the input shaft naturally slows down once disconnected from the engine so the synchros aren't doing all the work. There's no "natural" tendency for an input shaft to increase RPM. Something is not right there, I don't have a great answer on what. You can try a dedicated GL4 75W90, I plan to switch to Motorcraft XT-M5-QS which is supposedly a very good 75W90 for NB Miatas which have a weirdly sensitive transmission from the factory. I would chase down why your clutch is making a hissing noise, that's not normal. It might be no big deal but in the absence of anything else to investigate I would look at that.
×
×
  • Create New...