Jump to content
SAU Community

premium or normal unleaded?


Recommended Posts

in view of today's petrol prices, my pocket is starting to hurt a little, making me consider dispensing with the premium highhorse.

does pumping normal unleaded petrol screw your car up or is it ok?does it hurt future salability?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you want to use standard fuel, retard the timing and lower the boost.

Long term option, do a N/A conversion.

Better still, sell your Skyline and drive a Hyundai!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The price diff is an extra 16cents max

If you fill 40 litres its only $6.40 extra over the normal stuff...

Surely u can afford that little bit extra? I mean its better spending that little bit more knowing ur getting 98ron and using the best stuff for you pride and joy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah it all depends on how u drive it. if u race a bit and r a bit heavy footed with it then use the premium, but if ur a granny driver and dont flog it everyday then the regular should be ok. my mates uses regular in his GTR and has never had any probs with it, and i mostly use regular and its fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i remember needing petrol on a cruise and the only place was a "Mobil" station. It was very oldschool. i think the mix was like 60% petrol 30% water & 10% dirt. I couldnt hit boost without hearing the misfirring. I wouldnt get any less then premium again

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I hear what you're saying Harumomo....It's beginning to hurt my pocket too, since I drive long distances to and from work...add with traffic jams...

Anyway, i'm thinking of going down the 3/4 route...ie, 3 weeks regular, 1 week premium. I've used regular on occasions( "hears the boooing in the background")..ALTHOUGH so far I've been filling up with mostly premium. I haven't had any misfiring or detonation effect (maybe i'm not sure what that would sound like) when using regular. The only difference is that using regular, you will soon notice a lacking in the acceleration...I don't think there is much difference in the fuel economy between the two an extra 20 ks perhaps..not much (maybe I need my car need tuning??) *shrugs*

my 2 cents

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The (factory) ECU should retard the timing to a certain extent if you want to use regular fuel. But it does have its limits, and you can get inaudible pinging which will be damaging to your engine. If you want to run regular, get one of those Jaycar knock sensor readout kits. Run it on premium and keep track of the knock levels. Then swap to regular and if it gets any worse, retard your timing via the CAS by a couple of degrees.

Personally I don't see much benefit in running regular unless you do a lot of highway driving where it's running really lean. Your power and therefore economy will suffer and you're saving a lot less than the 7-9cpl extra it costs you to run premium. If you fill up with 50 litres once a week, that costs around an extra $200 a year to use premium for the same amount of fuel. But because your mileage is better on premium, it's probably closer to only $100 extra. As for me who fills up once a fortnight, that's only $50 extra per year. Why would I bother using shit fuel when I can get better, ethanol-free stuff for only $50 extra a year?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As for the NA skyline - your fine to run normal unleaded, your not shoving 15 pounds of pressured air into your engine, with fuel to match, its not going to detonate before the spark goes off.

Would be wasting your money on premium

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Premium fuel only in Skylines unless you have an R32 where you might be able to get away with it as it seems some need it but others don't.

Also if you run regular fuel in a premium fuel only car you can send the knock sensor out of wack, requiring you to get a new knock sensor and can really F the engine and computer right up, can also F seals and stuff.

This is what happens to WRX if you ever run regular fuel in them, R33 and R34 cars are premium only cars.

Shame they don't have JAp fuel here their normal stuff is 100% ron and their good stuff is 110%ron.

So even running premium fuel here would be like runing regular fuel over there only that it's even crappier.

Though not worth the risk... unless you can afford the damage from it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That being said are all premium fuels the same?

I fill up each time at various petrol stations from 7/11's to Mobil etc. Are there any 'best' premium fuels to use? For my r32gtst.

I'd like to know what the best fuel option is that i can use.

Thanks :rofl:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That being said are all premium fuels the same?

I fill up each time at various petrol stations from 7/11's to Mobil etc. Are there any 'best' premium fuels to use? For my r32gtst.

I'd like to know what the best fuel option is that i can use.

Thanks :)

Man, how many times has this been asked? Do a search for all the arguments as to which is best, but here is a very quick overview.

Shell Optimax, Mobil Synergy 8000, and BP Ultimate are all 98 RON.

Caltex and Ampol Vortex Gold are 96 RON.

All other premiums are usually 95 RON, though sometimes they are 96 RON (it will say on the pump if it's 96).

You should try all of them to see which gets you best value for money. I used to run 98 RON fuel on both my car and bike, but the bike runs too rich and not enough timing to take advantage of the 98 RON fuels, and I get the same or slightly better economy and power from normal premium or Vortex. Once I can afford a tune I'll tune it to run on 98 RON fuel. But the Skyline only likes 98 RON fuel and that's all I use (any of the first three, whichever is cheapest/most convenient at the time).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

in view of today's petrol prices, my pocket is starting to hurt a little, making me consider dispensing with the premium highhorse.

does pumping normal unleaded petrol screw your car up or is it ok?does it hurt future salability?

Hmmmm...now,let's see:it may cost you a few extra dollars a week to keep your ride running smoothly and efficiently,as the maker intended OR be tight and possibly cost yourself a full engine rebuild/engine swap.Even if it's NOT your pride and joy,don't take the short route!If it costs,as a guesstimate,between 2 and 5 grand to do said engine out 'cause you were scrimping on your fuel,buy a second car you don't need to run good juice in!!!I know my GTR would pitch both of us over a cliff if I took shortcuts...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • There are fixes for this. In industry we use compressed air for everything. It is frequently wet, and many things cannot tolerate it. So there are various forms of driers available that you can install. The simplest option for something like this would be a dessicant drier. Much cheaper to replace some silica gel than actuator cylinders.
    • That's a solid update mate, well done at WA FOS. You may already know this, but the actuators on the paddle shift are a service item and are sadly not that reliable. As I understand it they collect water from the compressor (condensation) which then rusts the bores/pistons in the actuators. A mate of mine had no end of trouble with them in one if his circuit cars, apparently it's a 'known issue'. Buy a couple of spares at great expense to ensure you never have any problems with the ones you've got! Any clues about what the new WTAC rules might be? While faster cars are cool the Pro class arms race has got to the point where you wouldn't even bother entering without a $1m budget and even then I don't think you'd win.  
    • https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/er34/3945-rb25det/trans/317/31940N/ The pictures of the part you're talking about is clearly not just one solenoid. You can see another picture of it here: https://www.alltranz.com.au/shop/drivetrain/automatic-transmission/RE5R01A/product/9305/ The 4 speed automatic in the GTT is Nissan corporate stuff. You can search up similar jobs done on a Frontier or Pathfinder with a RE4R01B to get an idea for what the internals are going to look like and the procedure like this:   
    • Hi Chris,   long time since your post, just wondering if you have the Pinout for the v35 stereo plugs, I bought the roem nis2 harness but it doesn’t match the v35 connector. any help appreciated, I can work out the grn and power constant. But the rest might be hard. thanks Tyson
×
×
  • Create New...