Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Abs Problem


Recommended Posts

Ive been having a bit of trouble with my ABS since swapping to an R33 diff and making up a mount for the 32 ABS sensor.

I was working fine before the swap but now i find the brake pedal is unusually firm and really standing on it will give concerningly low stopping power. Then after about 5 minutes the ABS light comes on, stopping power returns to normal, just there is no ABS.

This only happens at motorway speeds, at 50k's everything works as it should

There is just under 1mm gap form the sensor tip to the ABS ring

I must be missing something

Help anyone??

post-85702-0-16231100-1369485361_thumb.jpgpost-85702-0-58005700-1369485517_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Has anyone got a list of error code for the R32 gtst computer? i managed to pull over while the ABS was playing up and counted 10 flashes between pauses. im assuming error code 10?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not sure about this at all - but are the number of teeth on the R33 diff different to the R32's ? That would cause the computer to think the rear wheels were turning at a speed than the front wheels

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Or even a different material could cause it too (ie capacitive vs hall effect sensor) Just spit balling, but if the R32 ones were alloy and the R33 teeth were steel, then that would be an issue, you would have to change the sensors over too. (doubt they would be compatible though)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats a point, but i used the driveshaft flange off the old R32 diff so same ring.

It uses the original sensor aswell, so the only change i can see is position of the sensor/distance from ABS ring.

R33 abs diffs are completely different as they have sensors either side of the diff on the output shafts.

Edited by zac the muss
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Diff ratio change might actually be the problem.........front ABS rings are still going around at the same speed they used to.....but now the rear one is going around slower. That might be enough to freak the ABS computer right out.

You might have to look into putting an R33 ABS system into it!!! eeek.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why? If you know you're going to have wheel lock, then you are prepared to modulate the pedal, no? ABS is intended for those crash stop moments on the road with drivers who don't know what they're doing at the best of times, let alone when they are surprised. If you're driving a car on the race track, you are at the opposite end of the spectrum from where ABS is intended to be used.

Edited by GTSBoy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So.... when I'm finally getting around to having my power steering leak sorted, now it looks like I've got the same issue most A/T Skylines are having. My A/T light will randomly come on and I'm stuck in 3rd gear until I turn the car off and on again. Only 3 weeks ago I did a complete transmission service: Oil flush + new gasket + new filter. This came out of nowhere!! It wasn't like the car was driven hard. I drove about 3 mins down the road to get fuel and boom!!!  Anyway, I have a few questions and hope you fine people can help me out here. All questions are in red. 1. The solenoids: I was looking at the parts catalogue in Amayama and I could only find the Solenoids as an assembly. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/319404ax05 I read in another thread that Solenoid A = 31940-4AX02 & Solenoid B = 31940-4AX05 but the Amayama product has only the code of B. Is this the right part? Can anyone who has done the Solenoid changes or seen them confirm if this is the complete set of A & B?   2. Gasket and Filter: I'm not going to try change the solenoids myself because it seems difficult to do in a home garage with just 2 jack stands. I plan to take it to a shop and get it changed. I was also going to buy the transmission sump gasket at the same time so I don't reuse the same gasket. Should I just use the existing gasket as it has only been on the car since OCT 19th? (~3 weeks) Should I be buying a brand-new gasket and a filter? Does this job involve taking the filter out?   Thanks in advance to everyone. It's hard to find a video of someone doing a solenoid change on a R34 so any help you can give answering my remaining questions would make me less stressed.
    • Yea - From what I have seen from the video, the car idles like any R34 lol 50PSI of fuel pressure is hardly super abnormal, the regulator is working because the pressure remains static when the throttle gets revved, i.e pressure remains the same when manifold vaccuum changes. Bigger pumps on stock rails always bumped the pressure in the rail without using an aftermarket regulator to change that. Do you know what your IAC is actually doing? Has there been any data showing the stepper motor % etc? There's no way your idle is actually moving around the way the cluster(s) are indicating. You would hear the difference with the engine RPM flying to 3k and 1k in mere seconds. I'd be checking the wiring to the tacho. What the tacho is telling you and what the engine/ecu is telling you are different things. I assume your ECU doesn't display the spike. So whatever is telling the tacho to be at X rpm is doing something weird. When the going gets insane, you're on the wrong path. You've ruled out plenty of things that are working correctly/aren't the issue. Your idle isn't doing what the tacho is indicating. You have two seperate issues, I don't think they are linked, and the idle seems reasonably okay unless it's stalling which.. well, it hasn't. Troubleshoot the stall if it occurs by figuring out what your IAC is doing vs what it is being told to do.
    • So awesome! I love the RB with the exhaust on display.
    • NO HITS PRICE DROP   ENGINE - $8.5k ONO TRANSMISSION - $1.8k ONO  
    • If it has had a code in the recent past, the code should still be there waiting to be read.
×
×
  • Create New...