Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Just wondering...has anyone here used/is using a carbon prop shaft for their GTRs? Does the performance outweigh the cost?

the Driveshop seems to have relatively decently priced ones... they even have a sydney dealer! :D

http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-driveshafts/nissan/skyline/nissan-skyline-r34-99-02-awd-gt-r-carbon-fiber-driveshaft

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426005-prop-shafts/
Share on other sites

i'd only change my standard one for a torqline. more details below. i've read too many complaints about other brands to bother with the cost/hassle if it doesn't perform as expected.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/389865-carbon-driveshafts/

so did the group buy go through?

hows the torqline?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426005-prop-shafts/#findComment-6870066
Share on other sites

Whenever I've driven Matt's Nur, it's always perfectly smooth and unruffled I'm glad to say.

Compared to my car, the low down pickup (bottom end power) is really strong. At constant high speeds, there's no jitteriness through the seat.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426005-prop-shafts/#findComment-6870203
Share on other sites

Whenever I've driven Matt's Nur, it's always perfectly smooth and unruffled I'm glad to say.

Compared to my car, the low down pickup (bottom end power) is really strong. At constant high speeds, there's no jitteriness through the seat.

so are u going to get a torqline Terry? ;)

is there a distributor in aus?

as for the driveshaftshop, so far there has been only good reviews from the wrx forums...plus they have a sydney distributor?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426005-prop-shafts/#findComment-6870824
Share on other sites

It's worth talking to them to assess if their written warranty is offering cash back (if faulty) or only repair. If it's the former, and subject to good reviews (as you say), I'd be prepared to give them a go.

Ask if the warranty is voided due to DIY too. I'd be cautious about that as a get out of jail disclaimer. Anyone with a socket set should be able to do this.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426005-prop-shafts/#findComment-6870949
Share on other sites

It's worth talking to them to assess if their written warranty is offering cash back (if faulty) or only repair. If it's the former, and subject to good reviews (as you say), I'd be prepared to give them a go.

Ask if the warranty is voided due to DIY too. I'd be cautious about that as a get out of jail disclaimer. Anyone with a socket set should be able to do this.

good and valid points u brought up... will note all this down when i speak to them... ;)

did u see their front and rear axles too? :wub:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426005-prop-shafts/#findComment-6871408
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...