Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys I have some stuff left over from the silver r33 coupe I recently parted out, parts left include:

not much left now only have:

stock air box - $180

boot interior - $70

clutch pedal/master/lines/slave - $150

abs bmc - $50

booster $50

rear seats - $20

front and rear door cards - $100

f & r pillar trims - $20 each

dash - $50

glovebox - $30

s1 centre console - $30

bonnet - $100

boot lid with wing - $100

front bar (m spec s1) - $100

rear reo bar - $50

bonnet latch and stand - $50

washer bottle - $20

coolant bottle -$20

pass window switch - $30

engine crossmember -$50

hicas steering rack - pending payment

rear suspension arms - from $20

mirrors - $60

good flywheel - $100

fuel filler flap - $25

fuel pump and cradle - $50

probably more little bits around but thats most of what I have left...

located in springwood 4127

please contact me on 0420 767 957

Cheers

  • 2 weeks later...

also got a series 1 shell here now to part out (complete coupe shell)

still got heaps of s2 parts as well and lots of r32 stuff

rb25det block complete unknown condition bores look very good - $100

  • 2 weeks later...
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From the pictures I have when doing the job the flywheel is the same diameter, I don't think they're playing weird tricks like putting weights at the outer diameter to increase flywheel inertia or anything like that. The OEM flywheel is definitely heavier, but it's not a huge difference. Quoted weight savings of the clutch is 2 kg so I can't imagine the flywheel being lighter than ~7 kg. Kind of regret not weighing it before the clutch went into the car but as far as driveability goes I have no complaints.
    • HKS trigger kit should be very easy to integrate with a Link. It's a 36-2 crank trigger. Hard part is finding the motivation to take off the timing belt and everything on the front of the engine to install it. You also need to cut out a hole in the oil pump housing so the sensor can read the trigger wheel. Changing out the cam sensor for a 24 tooth setup is probably good enough but as others have mentioned depending on what underlying assumptions are changed it becomes more of a problem. Reading the crank state off of the cam is an abstraction that works in the general case, but if you have an edge case it makes less and less sense. There is a GTX2860 gen 2 that can take a compact 5 bolt housing so it's direct bolt on but I'm not 100% sure of what's involved. Peak compressor efficiency drops off a bit on these turbos vs -5s, 77% vs 73% but you get way, way wider region of operation. The -5s have a really strange surge line in their compressor map that is all over the place. If you think the hot side on the -5s aren't open enough you can try the Tomei T550B turbos which a local tuner seems to be happy with:
    • i need a complete tail light for my R33 GTR if you have please let me know.
    • I need a great maintenance workshop around Idaho, if you know one please let me know..
    • Hello friends, i have a good friend in Canada that looking for a good condition 1993 GTR around him please if one or know someone around you that is willing to let it go please let me know so that i can inform him.....Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...