Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Best results seem to favour the turbo housing, as long as the gate can get good flow. I managed to help squeeze 430kw out of the factory manifold using a gate off the housing.

Welding the the manifold makes it too hard to clean up the inside with a die grinder afterwards. You can't just weld a gate on at a 90 and expect it to flow well.

post-63525-0-70435100-1386385581_thumb.jpg

Housing sounds good. Preparing to invest in a HTA 3076 :turned:
Obviously staying low mount for a more standard appearance but wanted to know many people are going that way.
Any idea what kinda of power I could push with one running 16-20psi with supporting mods? Car's a 33 GTST. I'm still running standard head gasket but previous owned had forged motor built. So I'm not sure how much boost I can push.

Edited by GotsWapan

Depends on your choice of fuel mate :)

Housing sounds good. Preparing to invest in a HTA 3076 :turned:

Obviously staying low mount for a more standard appearance but wanted to know many people are going that way.

Any idea what kinda of power I could push with one running 16-20psi with supporting mods? Car's a 33 GTST. I'm still running standard head gasket but previous owned had forged motor built. So I'm not sure how much boost I can push.

An FP3076HTA is a lot of turbo for BP98 and stock exhaust manifold etc. Be sure that it's definitely the turbo that is holding you back in power, otherwise you could spend a lot of money and not get the kind of return you want... or expect.

No worries. I appreciate the input. Been having dramas gettin decent power becuase I cheaped out in the first turbo I bought for it.

Whats on it now?

Tuners are always fond of pointing the finger at a turbo, even the best tuners I've used will do it. Maybe describe what you have (if its still on there) and we can give some pointers in relation to what it should be doing and where it may have gone wrong?

Its a GTX3076R with a 0.82 rear housing with standard dump pipe flange. I've been told they're no good for flow by a few members on here. Can you confirm or correct this please :happy: I'm aiming upwards of 280rwkw
I'm only making 220rwkw at 16-18 psi

Edited by GotsWapan

Wtf. What engine is that on? And what standard dump pipe flange? While I prefer the HTA turbos... A GTX3076R should be yawning at that power level, this is definitely sounding like a case of working out what isn't working the way it should. I wouldn't spend a lot of money swapping turbos at this stage

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

RB25DET Built with Nitto/JE Pistons and rings and spool rods. All bottom end was assebled professionally with Reco'd head. Boostn Imports was selling kit a while ago that came with a Sonic/MTQ rear housing that bolts to the standard dump pipe, internally gated of course. I was silly and didn't do my research and I cheaped out and bought it.
Other mods are full 3" exhaust, 600x300x80mm cooler, button clutch. ECU is a Wolf 3d V4. Fuel is with 044 and Nismo 740cc injectors.

I thought I bought all the correct supporting mods but I think its the turbo holding it back.

Edited by GotsWapan

No way that it's the turbo holding you back. Might be your standard dump. Is your Cat a highflow aswell I knocked mine out and got 280kws at 16psi with boost tapering off to 12.Clutch was slipping too. With a stock engine.

As others have said no way it's the turbo.

With a R33 highflow.

Its a full 3" similar to a JJR one. I'm sort of lost in what to do now. Cat is a stainless 3" good quality one

Even Ash R31 Nismoid suggested it was a rubbish housing.

The car makes no more power after 6000rpm

Edited by GotsWapan

Definitely the housing mate you will probably find its a .70 and not a .82 as suggested..I was offered the same housing on my GTX3071 and ditched it for a garrett housing my car went onto make 288kw on 98 and 336kw on E85. I can 100% assure you that's the issue might be up for cool grand for a .82 garrett rear and a new dump pipe plus a tickle up on your tune but that's less than half the price of the turbo.. Maybe a bit more if ya not handy on the tools :yes:

Thanks, now thats been confirmed. Would you suggest the 5 bolt genuine garret IW or a 4 bolt external with wastegate setup? The only reason I ask is that I've heard sometimes the wastegate flapper on the housing sometimes need machining for higher boost.

I had 5 bolt genuine garrett IWG with 14psi actuator and it held 25psi with a good EBC fine boost dropped to 23 up top but that's cause the turbo was maxed out. IWG will be cheaper and easier to set up and will probably still net ya 280kw easy

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If the RB29 box in the car is a push clutch, then yes, you will need to deal with the pull clutch on the turbo box. You either buy a pull clutch and don't use the old one, or you do the things needed to convert the turbo box's clutch arrangement over to push. Which is a bit of a f**karound. "Making" a custom tailshaft is the easy part. But you will need to source the front clip yoke - the bit that goes into the output of the gearbox. These are not as easy to find. They are out there, but they don't grow on trees the way that they used to.
    • Indicator bulbs are way too bright to use as a "corner marker" (we call them parking lights too). Sure. Go ahead and do it. But realise that you wil need to come up with all your own wiring to do it, as no-one will have a standard howto worked out for Skylines. It's just a matter of abandoning everything that Nissan have done and starting from scratch. You'd probably be better off retrofitting tailght/brakelight globe bases into the front indicator housings and using the taillight circuit for your corner marker and the brake light as the indicator. You'd need to work out how to kill the marker circuit while the indicator is flashing, otherwise it won't flash on-off, just bright-less bright.
    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
×
×
  • Create New...