Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All the air the engine consumes must come through the comp wheel. If the comp wheel can only flow "x" amount of air, that volume wouldn't change, or would it?

All being equal ( cams comp ratio etc etc ) a 2.6 will consume less air then a 3.0 which means the same turbo would have to spin faster to hold the same boost level on a 3.0, so while a comp wheel can only flow so much air the different size engine will pass more air

Which is the issue I'm having, 28psi through a 3.0 is to much air flow for the GT28 turbine side to pass creating to much backpressure

  • 2 weeks later...

So a new late model EVO record has been set today - STM in the US raced their EVO 8 RS drag car which runs a .85a/r T3 Super 99 HTZ at Maryland International Raceway and started out the day running a loose 8.7 @ 181mph and gradually whittled the times down, first breaking the 4 year old record of 8.34 @ 169mph with a 8.28 @ 178mph - then taking it further down with a 8.09 @ 182.5mph with a 1.4s 60ft. It has definite 7s power, just needs to hook a bit better but probably less and less likely with the temps dropping quickly over in the US.

>180mph on a T3 turbo.... there are a lot of people who raise eyebrows at some of the dyno figures thrown around for some of these turbos, but that is HAULING!

  • Like 3
  • 2 months later...

Sorry to wake this thread up, just finished reading it all and have to say thanks for the information.

Has any of the builds in progress from last year come to any results?

Has anyone got specific results on rb25 hta3076 with hydraulic head?

Cheers

Sorry to wake this thread up, just finished reading it all and have to say thanks for the information.

Has any of the builds in progress from last year come to any results?

Has anyone got specific results on rb25 hta3076 with hydraulic head?

Cheers

Mines still coming along. Not too long it should be running but ive said that a few times now.

post-7636-0-04426000-1423559888_thumb.png

Sorry to wake this thread up, just finished reading it all and have to say thanks for the information.

Has any of the builds in progress from last year come to any results?

Has anyone got specific results on rb25 hta3076 with hydraulic head?

Cheers

Mine is still kicking :woot:

Looking forward to your results Brad. Even though my love for FP is all but gone :(

No FP love? :(

Dodgy designed turbo leaks oil like a tanker.

They won't warrant it as they dont make them anymore and they flat out blame the oil leaks on crank case pressure not their product.

Its a well known thing about them in the evo world.

I know of 4 other people with this issue with as little as 1500km on their turbos. Took my stock turbo to be modified at GT PUMPS & he currently has 4 of them that are leaking oil the only fix is to convert them to Journal bearing.

I spent $2700 on a turbo that done 3000km and isnt worth its weight in scrap :(

VERY disappointed as it took them months to build it and its f**ked in less time than it took to be built :(

Oh wow!

Never heard of that :domokun:

Sorry to hear mate... But at least you share your experience for others to see... I think FP are amazing based on my experience alone but its good to see both sides of the coin especially if people are looking to buy the same thing!

Thanks Matt oh well live and learn mate. I did love the turbos performance which is why it sucks so much!

It only seems to be a stock frame Mitsubishi issue.

The evo turbos they build run their own custom dual ceramic ball bearing cartridge which is the flop.

But turbos like Matts yeah they are a modified garrett basically with the HTA comp wheel :)

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/453377-evo-9-turbo-kit-sydney/

Edited by Mick_o

Sounds like its isolated to just that style of turbo :( Dissapointing to say the least mate!

I wouldnt hesitate to buy another one through them due to my experience, but sucks to hear you had issues!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Coming home late at night and driving past the police is the only reason i need one haha And yeh, definitley needs a switch to quickly enable it, dont have time to be getting my phone, opening an app, waiting for it to update etc before being able to make the change
    • Because it is financially convenient for them lol. Why wouldn't they want to give you the lowest possible valuation for your car?
    • Yep. @Duncan also shannons they will rip you dry and will be probably limited on how much you can drive. Also keep in mind that you always have to have it garaged with Shannons, with enthusiasts as per their PDS you can have it 2 times per week on the driveway for example. 
    • I had a generic 4" Varex rear box on my old V8, worked a treat for sneaking home late at night, it was as quite as stock when closed The car was "fairly" loud when open as it consisted of 1" 7/8 headers to 3" catted Y pipe, to 4" single, it did have a resonator in the mid pipe and only the Varex out the back I also hard wired in a Varex dash mount switch, as the key fob thing is a pain to use when driving I wouldn't recommend giving the beans when it is closed though as it creates a large restriction in the exhaust  It also can in very handy when pulled over for "random" breath tests or just cruising past the constabulary   
    • Here is the before and after of the scraping/sanding of the IC pads on the tachometer board for the fix mentioned in this thread. And yes it worked fine after. Just a note if you change any components on the board the tach calibration can be wrong showing the wrong idle etc...only problem is once it is installed back in the cluster you can't get to it to adjust...ouch! My fix was to cut out the calibration pot (the blue one) from the board and run it with two wires to the fuse panel under the dash where I could adjust the idle calibration once everything was installed. And yes I soldered everything up again including the half soldered components either side of the IC in my photos                                
×
×
  • Create New...