Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It sounds unlikely that I'll get a dyno plot, the owner isn't really too worried about that kind of thing and never grabbed one - and lives far away from where it was tuned :( I kindof hoped that he would get a plot in the first instance but it never turned out that way.

From what he has said in the past (he also used it on his RWD R32 GTSt before it was written off) it isn't very laggy at all, for what it's worth he uses it for hillclimbs/street sprints and feels he could or should go bigger.

It sounds unlikely that I'll get a dyno plot, the owner isn't really too worried about that kind of thing and never grabbed one - and lives far away from where it was tuned :( I kindof hoped that he would get a plot in the first instance but it never turned out that way.

From what he has said in the past (he also used it on his RWD R32 GTSt before it was written off) it isn't very laggy at all, for what it's worth he uses it for hillclimbs/street sprints and feels he could or should go bigger.

Was this the hillclimb one you showed me that time?

Not sure what your overall setup - this is 9:1 compression, 272deg 10.25mm cams, running on E85 etc so getting a reasonable chance at life. I find this whole dyno comparison thing a bit so so, people have their own views - a few guys who run on the type of dyno this was run on (DynoTorque from NZ) reckon it compares directly with Dyno Dynamics though I am honestly not sure as I've not seen enough numbers from comparable setups to draw any patterns. I can say that 500kw(670whp) on that dyno is VERY fricken potent, its very very serious business. Given there is an EVO already mentioned in this thread doing 500awkw on a Mainline dyno as well, and people have made up around 800whp on US dynos - 670whp is not likely to be an optimistic number on a drunk built RB30

Not sure what your overall setup - this is 9:1 compression, 272deg 10.25mm cams, running on E85 etc so getting a reasonable chance at life. I find this whole dyno comparison thing a bit so so, people have their own views - a few guys who run on the type of dyno this was run on (DynoTorque from NZ) reckon it compares directly with Dyno Dynamics though I am honestly not sure as I've not seen enough numbers from comparable setups to draw any patterns. I can say that 500kw(670whp) on that dyno is VERY fricken potent, its very very serious business. Given there is an EVO already mentioned in this thread doing 500awkw on a Mainline dyno as well, and people have made up around 800whp on US dynos - 670whp is not likely to be an optimistic number on a drunk built RB30

Mine has slightly larger lift cams, bit less compression, no e85, but WMI instead.

Yes its near impossible to compare dynos, but just looking for a gauge as to how mine should compare, is that a hub or roller type dyno?

What MPH over 1/4mile do the cars run that make 500awkw on that dyno ?

Mine has slightly larger lift cams, bit less compression, no e85, but WMI instead.

Yes its near impossible to compare dynos, but just looking for a gauge as to how mine should compare, is that a hub or roller type dyno?

What MPH over 1/4mile do the cars run that make 500awkw on that dyno ?

No idea, sorry - none of the guys I know who use that dyno are drag guys so not likely to get much of an impression. There are plenty of results out there of cars running HTA3586s at the strip though.... they go fast ;)

Yep EVOs, though the turbo moves the air to make the power. For what it's worth based off what I know about that dyno I'd guess that a 500kw R32 GTR may run near 140mph with that kind of power

Ran into electrical gremlins on the dyno - it's a freshly built race car, and it was a bit of a rush to get it on the dyno. It made 500awkw (rolling road) on 24psi running E85 with more in it, but I doubt that will happen too soon.... I'll naturally update when anything else happens :)

Yea i know they rate them at 76lb air flow, but the evos are much lighter obviously.

Is that 500 at 4 wheels or 2? Hub or roller dyno.

:wave:

If someone comes across an R31 GTS-R manifold in good condition or a HKS manidfold then let me know. I am keen to run one of these bad boys but need to get rid of my Trust based manifold. Part of the reason why I went 73HTA was that I could run it on my TD06 based turbo

As much for my reference as anyone elses - a BMW guy has just upgraded from a GT3582R to an HTA3586 on his BMW and intends on giving it some beans on pump gas, will be interesting to see the comparison when it's done :)

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2004332-700whp-with-a-GT35-it-is-possible&p=26557578#post26557578

As much for my reference as anyone elses - a BMW guy has just upgraded from a GT3582R to an HTA3586 on his BMW and intends on giving it some beans on pump gas, will be interesting to see the comparison when it's done :)

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2004332-700whp-with-a-GT35-it-is-possible&p=26557578#post26557578

Mmmmm beans :P

There are a couple of good Bimmer results with HTA's :D

  • 3 weeks later...

Hey guys

Lots of good information in here. I have a query and any advice is much appreciated.

I currently have the following:

R34 RB25 neo stock internals

GT3076r .63 housing

1000cc id injectors

tomei type b 260 cams

power fc running caltex e flex all the time making 320 rwkw.

The car runs 22 psi but drops down to 16 psi at the top end . I am looking at a turbo upgrade and have been reading this thread and there seems to be some great results.

now I am tossing up between the HTA 3076R .82 and the HTA 3582R .82.

Now you may say for stock internals the 3076R would be the obvious choice. However, there is certainly a possibility in the future that I will go an RB30 bottom end and I think the 3582R would certainly be better for this. I tend to like to plan things out in advance so I get the most bang for my buck and do not have to keep replacing things. So I am keeping the possible RB30 in mind when buying this turbo. The RB30 will be further down the track though.

So my question is, what is an HTA 3582R .82 housing going to be like on an internally stock RB25?

I drive this car 6 days per week, it is my daily driver but I do like to have a bit of power available. To be honest I do not mind the off boost performance of the car, I can keep up with the flow of traffic without coming on boost at all. The only time it gets frustrating is stopped at the lights before a form one lane and if you take off gently off boost stock commodores or falcons can drive past me and then sit 10 ks under the speed limit. But this is only less than 1% of the time driving.

I have been trying to gauge what the HTA 3582R is like based on videos but there are not that many for the RB25. Here is one I have found. Does not seem too laggy:

While I do respect 34GeeTeeTee's efforts (and think the results were great) personally I wouldn't change from a normal 3076 to a 3076HTA (if I already had a 3076R)...

I am having trouble guessing what manifold and gate combo you are running.. Based on the power I would say external gate but based on the boost drop maybe internal gate? Please tell us what manifold and how it is gated.

I think the most logical improvement would be to go for a .82 housing. If you haven't already got a good manifold and gate I would recommend you do that also. The added flow and improved boost control should net you close to an additional 30kw (350rwkw should be achievable) and keep costs to a minimum. The new manifold and gate will still be workable for the 30 if you go there.

If you do then move to the dirty 30 scene you will still have a reasonable turbo to have a super responsive 350kw... But if you decide to go HTA3582 from now, and never do end up going dirty 30, you have just short changed yourself a fair amount of response for not much extra power (unless you want to risk the stock bottom end?). If you do end up going 30, a 3076R .82 is an easy turbo to sell :)

First things first, make sure you have good manifold and gate... Then consider if you want/need a turbo upgrade or if a larger housing will do the job.

Hi GTscotT

Thanks for your reply. The car runs a tuneagent manifold and tial external gate.

attached is a dyno sheet. When I had it tuned the tuner was having some problems with calibrating the dyno but I can say that the car does feel quick, as in with a third gear roll on with no passengers it will light up the back tyres.

So you think that if I went to an HTA 3582r 0.82 there would be a large decrease in response over my old garrett? how much difference are we talking here?

I do not mind taking a bit of risk with the bottom end as I have another car I can drive if the engine did fail and the car actually does not spend much of its time getting driven really hard anyway.

I will have more of a look into just changing the housing. It would mean I still have to pay to get the car retuned though. So changing the housing I would be thinking maybe $850 for the housing and tuning whereas replacing the turbo to an HTA 3076 would be $2000 for the turbo plus $600 tune minus $800 for selling my old turbo = $1800. This is not really much more $$$ than I would think it would cost to change the housing. But it depends if people think the result would be much better.

I guess I was hoping that with these new technology turbos I could have it both ways with making lots more power without losing too much response.

Thanks again for your help.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...