Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all , have had a few minor dramas setting up cam switching with a ViPec plug in . Is the best way to make up a table of MAP vs revs and run with the solenoid switched off up to say 3000 revs and 100 kpa (atmo) pressure ? Mine had been using a TPS vs revs table and that created drivability problems .

I set up a MAP/revs table which is off up to about 1600 revs and the off/on divide is sort of a diagonal line from 120 kpa at 1600 revs to around 0 kpa at 4000 revs . Its not really linear more a curve with its radius facing the lower RHS of the table if that makes sense .

Referencing off TP cost lots of off boost torque and fingers crossed I'll get better fuel consumption if not booted everywhere .

It's surprising how wild 256 Tomeis get with the solenoid on at very low revs , no hope of idling anyway .

Also it's set to switch off at all pressures between 4690 and 4700 revs .

Sorry if a silly question but I migrated from a PFC and you had no choices in this area , you did the idle learn and hoped it sorted itself out . Hopefully this is where I get the consumption back I had with the Apexi .

Realy like the versatility of the ViPec but it's a learning curve , cheers Adrian .

Easiest way is off a GP output then put your desired parameters (Rpm>1100, tps> 5% or whatever)

I forget which digital output it is but it is shown in the help section somewhere (in the wiring section)

Hope this makes sense. Im going from memory.

its AUX 1, set it to gp output.

Condition 1 and 2 - (OR 3)

SC 1: rpm> 1400

SC 2 rpm< 4000

SC 3 map< 180

start with this and then fine tune it to how you like it.

basically this is setup so its off on idle, then at 1400rpm to 4000rpm it will be on until the map goes over 180kpa where it will switch it off.

hope this helps

This is what I'm using and it seems to work quite well . It feels much better at part throttle for most of the sub atmo 2-3000 rev area and the 4 across the middle of the top row is an attemp to lose the closed throttle kick/buck I'm get in this area when cold . I think the cam switching and throttle closed fuel cut resumption were fighting each other in the 1400-1600 rev area .

I guess it makes sense to get the best trapping efficiency (shortest overlap period) at light loads and aside from a bit more torque in this area I could use better fuel consumption numbers too . My consumption yardstick is how far I get before the needle drops to the top line from full to the neck - which is real scientific is't it . Better than 50 is reasonable and better than 100 by the first 1/4 has been hard in the past .

A .

post-9594-0-02228600-1369920002_thumb.png

Edited by discopotato03

Can you post a video of how wild the tomei 256's sound disco? I have a vipec plugin myself. Can you go into a little more detail on what your actualy setting up doing.? I'm very new to all these awesome vipec capabilities lol.

My tuner did it while I was with him once , its really only around idle up to dunno maybe 13-1400 revs . Best comparison I can give is trying to make a engine with full race cams idle too slow . Wild shaking and constant stalling . You wouldn't go there intentionally if you didn't have to .

I'm guessing std cams do a similar kind of thing with the sloenoid switched on at idle .

The main issue is engine characteristics change if the solenoid switches at the wrong times , obviously too much valve overlap costs you part throttle off boost torque because the inlets close too late and the exhausts open too early . Once the gas speed is up a bit its better able to flow in the right directions .

I also look at RB25DETs as a lowish CR engine off boost and they seem to work best with conservative valve timeing for normal part throttle driving .

When my PWM table was referencing off throttle position there was no way to have the solenoid off up to 100 kpa/atmo pressure into the 2-3000 rev range (see table above) and with it on the overlap timing was to much to allow it to make best torque in these areas . It didn't really run camy or rough but it didn't feel sweet and at times a little breathless . Now its very smooth and has more torque meaning you open the throttle less just getting around . It made a big difference to the cold start and warm up characteristics meaning it drives a lot nicer initally now .

I am also starting to lean out some parts of the sub atmo pressure fuel map because I had it a tad rich in these areas looking for better part throttle performance .

I'll know later today how the consumption looks and theory suggests it should be better . Anything that improves fuel consumption (E70) and gains torque at the same time is all cake I reckon .

Cheers A .

Just as an update the consumption ended up ok but it drives better overall . I also changed the accel load table from MAP to TPS and I think thats going to work better overall too .

Do we have a Vipec/Link G4 plug in tuning thread here or do we want one ?

Cheers Adrian .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...