Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Taken from another SKYLINE internet page.............

New Plugs (30/12/00):Blah blah blah: On recommendation by another Skyline owner I installed some Nissan platinum plugs. I have for years been using NGK copper plugs simply because they are cheap and new copper plugs deliver stronger sparks than platinums. The down side is that copper plugs need to be changed every 5000kms to retain optimum performance, mine hadnt been changed for 10,000kms and were pretty fouled up.

The Nissan platinum plugs are the same as Nissan Exa spark plugs (22401-58S16, NKG PRF6A-11), benefits are; more consistent plug performance over a longer period of time and less plug changes. As plug changes in the RB20 take about 40mins, this was a huge bonus. The serviceable life of the plugs is 100,000kms, but I think I will still change them after 20,000kms, depending on the condition. Downside is that they are $100 for a set, compared to $15 for the copper ones.

Perfomance: Initially there was a huge difference in power, the engine was more tractable at low revs and came on boost earlier, however after the second day, it developed a miss above 5000rpm on high boost. This was familiar problem...... plug gaps were too big!

The plug gaps on the Nissan plugs were 1.1mm which in my experience is too large when running high boost (+15psi), the theory is that the higher the pressures in the combustion chamber, the harder it is to light the charge, so you either need stronger coils or close the gaps on the plugs to about 0.9mm.

Reducing the plug gaps on the Platinum plugs is a delicate operation, because the layer of platinum is very thin, you have to becareful not to damage this with the feeler gauge. All I did was place the electrode on to a rubber mat and tap the end gently with a rubber mallet untill the gap was sufficiently closed, do not close the gap too much as opening the gap is alot harder.

After the gap was reduced to 0.9mm the miss was gone, but there was some loss of outright power, based on my gut feeling. Maybe the optimal gap is around 1mm, but this will depend on the health of your coils. Never the less the car does feel stronger with the new Nissan plugs, time will tell if they work better than the standard copper NGKs.

Back to Skyline home page

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

The last paragraph interests me the most........your thoughts on this simple but 'faskinating' subject!!!!!!!!!!??????????

Mark.

Mark, ive been through this process before and learnt the expensive way. See below for my findings.

Platinums:

Last longer max 20,000

Idles Better

0.80 gap loss in power & misfire problems begin

Very expensive

Coppers:

Very strong spark

0.80 gap

lasts 5000 - 8000Km

No misfire and no loss in power

Cheap as Chips :)

Conclusion:

Stick with coppers. :)

Mark, ive been through this process before and learnt the expensive way.  See below for my findings.

Platinums:

Last longer max 20,000

Idles Better

0.80 gap loss in power & misfire problems begin

Very expensive

Coppers:

Very strong spark

0.80 gap  

lasts 5000 - 8000Km

No misfire and no loss in power

Cheap as Chips  :)  

Conclusion:

Stick with coppers.  :)

Hey W747!

mmmmmmmmm..My new plugs (2 weeks old @ $26.50 each) were installed at 1.1mm (pre-extra boost). Boost increased to 9-10 psi, now misfiring when gunning on take off (POP POP Blurble...POP!). So from all the info I see, I figured that .8mm was the fix. Now the 'type' of plug could be a cause???

mmmmmm...I need to get this right before the weekend, as I plan on doing the 'gaps' on my 33 (wot a stuff around with all those pipes ' sh1t).

I'm hoping it's just the gap 747 (?)

Thankyou so much!!

When I had my r33 I gapped the plugs to 0.7mm to stop it hesitating and missing.... POS.  They were copper plugs.  I can't justify paying $23 for a spark plug, that's nearly a carton of beer.

hey 2far.. you don't think the extra cash on plugs is worth the less messing around in the engine bay every few months, just to change darn plugs?

Thanx man.

Use NGK V-Power plugs (The ones with the groove in the electrode).

They're probably the best bang for your buck plugs. Or you can waste $100 and hope you can feel the difference on the iridiums/plats IMO.

Fact: I can run bigger gaps w/o misfire on my V-Power plugs than my 10k old Platinums they replaced.

Use NGK V-Power plugs (The ones with the groove in the electrode).  

They're probably the best bang for your buck plugs. Or you can waste $100 and hope you can feel the difference on the iridiums/plats IMO.

Fact: I can run bigger gaps w/o misfire on my V-Power plugs than my 10k old Platinums they replaced.

Is V-Power "copper", will I still need to replace them regularly?

Also, I'm NOT LOOKING FOR POWER GAINS FROM SPARK PLUGS, looking for longevity and reliability, I've never felt more power from a certain type of plug in 20 years of driving. Don't like the idea of 'stripping' the top of my motor out too much just 4 da plugs!!

Thanx so much for your input mate.

Check your coils first, could be a lose ground wire. But my car did not like platinums and i bought a heap of sets and realised that plats are bad. Coppers all the way  :D

Mannnnnnnnn!!!!!!!!!! Looks like I've just blown $100 plus on the Nissan Platinums!!!

Thanks guys!!

I put NGK Iridiums in mine almost 30000km ago, very soon after I got my car. I haven't had a single spark-related problem ever since, and I have never needed to waste time/effort changing my plugs at service time. In effect, they were essentially free. I still had the 8 Iridiums from my Commodore, which I had removed before selling the car. I sold those to a mate who had a V8 Commodore for $100, which covered the entire cost of the 6 replacement ones for the Skyline (they were about $16 each).

Re: the gap size and loss of power. Basically the best thing you can do is run the biggest gap you can without it missing (of course there are limits to this :) ).

The bigger the gap, the bigger the spark = more/better/faster burn.

It'd be great to run 1.1mm and have a high energy ignition thingy, but the fact is that they are big bucks. But reduce the gap down to 0.8mm and it should be fine for most of our power levels :D

J

im with jimx,

I was a little iffy about iridiums when i went to get new spark plugs.

I actually had NGK Vpower plugs before that, but couldnt find them again anywhere so went on iridiums

Mine are gapped at 1.1mm, and are perfect, ive never had a miss, backfire.. nothing

I am running standard boost tho at the moment.

To me, Iridiums make alot of sense. Iridiums cost 5x more than coppers, but coppers need to be changed 5x more than Iridiums.

Ide rather change my plugs once every xx instead of 5x every xx with coppers.

Plus the design of iridium was purely for performance applications. When u really look at the plug, u can see how it makes a better spark from its design.

I say if you can afford them, buy them.

Sidewaymambo: Where abouts its belperformance?

And gapping iridiums isnt that hard, u just have to be gentle.

im with jimx,  

I was a little iffy about iridiums when i went to get new spark plugs.  

I actually had NGK Vpower plugs before that, but couldnt find them again anywhere so went on iridiums

Mine are gapped at 1.1mm, and are perfect, ive never had a miss, backfire.. nothing  

I am running standard boost tho at the moment.  

To me, Iridiums make alot of sense. Iridiums cost 5x more than coppers, but coppers need to be changed 5x more than Iridiums.  

Ide rather change my plugs once every xx instead of 5x every xx with coppers.

Plus the design of iridium was purely for performance applications. When u really look at the plug, u can see how it makes a better spark from its design.

I say if you can afford them, buy them.

Sidewaymambo: Where abouts its belperformance?

And gapping iridiums isnt that hard, u just have to be gentle.

ahh yes.....Knore, this is making me feel better already....and ready for the weekend when I re-gap to compensate for my extra boost!! I am more than confident now of 33 running better than ever (no misfire) after I've gone to .8mm.

Thankyou my virtual friend!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you get 12v at one of the relay pins with IGN on, and 12v at another for about 3 sec when you turn the key from ACC to start, then yes you can just earth the relay trigger pin. Just have a look at the top of the relay, it should tell you which pin needs earth when the 12v signal is sent (or if it's not clear, just post the pic and we can work it out). If you always have 12v at 2 pins with IGN on, they it is earth triggered by the ECU which makes it harder to fix (you really need to check the ECU pin is earthing when it should, and if so it is a wiring issue from there to the relay.
    • Tomei make a 1.5mm restrictor, I'd just use that.
    • Got the gearbox in and the front drive shafts.
    • Hi There I went through a rabbit hole of reading about Xenon headlights and the ADR regulations for having them installed. As people have been defected by running factory xenon I was researching in ways to make them compliant. Everyone always say needs to be self leveling and have washer installed, which I don't necessarily agree with. For this argument I'm using R34 as reference as I'm more aware on the construction of the headlight compared to the R33 Xenon, which may still be the exact same case.   For the self leveling clause taken from ADR 13 - Installation of Lighting and Light Signalling Devices on other than L-Group Vehicles As you can see the bold text "these manually adjustable devices from driver seats" are fine to use. As Series 1 Xenon model headlights do have a 4 level adjuster on the right near the ignition (however not series 2) then these model are consider compliant in that argument.   For the Self Cleaning aspect of this argument clause taken from ADR 13 - Installation of Lighting and Light Signalling Devices on other than L-Group Vehicles Now i can understand the argument that Xenon will need a washer as they are over 2000 lumens, but I clicked on the 12 at the end of that sentence and it takes me to the end notes which states R34 for headlight lenses are plastic, not sure if PL is mark as I don't currently have my skyline to confirm that marking is there. But could you not technically get a lenses with the PL marking on it and then get away with the argument that you need a washer. I went through a quick read of the adr and might have missed something else that may cause them to be non-complaint.    But wouldn't these technically be complaint headlights   Would love to hear other people input on this and shed some light   Edit In regard to the the washer portion I might be mistaken ADR 45 (which I believe is Regulation NO.45) states 12 cd (candela) I dont understand that portion in regarding to calculating the candela if anyone can shed some light. Otherwise I guess throw in a washer for the headlight and you definitely comply.
    • Took it to all Japan day, flogged the hell out of it and took it all, am a very very happy man  don’t know how that ended up in Greg’s thread before
×
×
  • Create New...