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So ever since i got my car back i have two errors

P0021 and P0011

The car got really hard to start , to the point battery almost went flat before it started..


Researching has lead to possible VCT solenoid faults..

Can anyone do me a big favour and get a multi-meter and test the plugs going to the VCT solenoids, what are the volts when on Acc, idle and if possible above 2,000rpm. Mine are 12V the entire time and im sure its only supposed to be 12V at 2000+ rpm... i can unplug both VCT solenoids and no difference to my car running.. rough idle no matter what and has difficulty on cold start. Any help please !

I would say just off that info, that your haltech isn't set up to do the vq35de adjustable cam timing. It's not like the old rb/SR variable cam that is on or off, but actually a table of degrees that the ecu commands at different load and rev situations.

Get the tuner to sort your mapping out, at worst you use the stock ecu to run the cams.

I was supposed to take it into the tuner today, but i cant get it started to get it there!

I will try the stock ecu, the haltech i have is the new ecu replacement one.

Anyone know the section in the Haltech software so i can see if VCT is being controlled ?

Can anyone test their volts for me please ?

-----------------------------

More info i have put together on p0011 and p0021 vq35de

The comprehensive component monitor, referred to as the CCM, monitors the Variable Camshaft Timing (VCT) position for over-advanced cam timing. If the cam timing exceeds a maximum calibrated limit or is stuck in an advanced position, the check engine light will come on and set this trouble code.

P0011 is: Intake Cam Position Timing Over Advanced - Bank 1
P0012 is: Variable Camshaft Timing Over Retarded - Bank 1
Possible Causes:
Incorrect camshaft timing
VCT solenoid valve stuck open or continuous oil flow to piston chamber
Camshaft advance mechanism binding, or faulty VCT unit
Symptoms:
These codes usually result in rough idle, stall or hard start.
A P0011 DTC trouble code may be caused by one or more of the following: Incorrect camshaft timing Wiring problems (harness/wiring) in intake timing control valve control solenoid system Continuous oil flow to VCT piston chamber Failed timing valve control solenoid (stuck open)
Things to check
1. 2 seal rings on the back of the cam cover (13035HC)
2. cam position sensors (p0340 and p0345)
3. Clean or replace vct solenoids
4. crank position sensor
5. Low oil
6. Check all fuses
7. Check all grounding esp timing cover x2
8. Check timing chain firing
9. Excessive rtv gasket blocking the oil passages and not getting to the cam gear
10. (ohm meter and they were 7.7-7.8 ohms each), ground and apply 12v to see if they open
11. Check power at the plug (must rev motor to 2k+ for the plugs to have voltage)
12. Check flywheel, if installed just before the errors started has been installed correctly
Related errors
p0300. The VTC solenoid gets energized at 2k+ RPM. This pushes a little piston into a resevior of oil. Through some mechanism, this rotates the intake cams and changes the timing. The piston in my solenoid was getting stuck in the energized position, even when the RPMs dropped and the voltage to the solenoid was not being applied. This means the cam timing was advanced on one bank and not on the other. At this point the ECU and physical cam timing were on different pages, causing a misfire
Edited by R6n350GT

So ever since i got my car back i have two errors

What work was done? Was it at the mechanics?

The hydraulic switch on the cam cover has a small gauze filter on the bottom I seem to remember, this could be blocked I guess. Or one of the actuator pistons may be jammed? I haven't played with the hydraliclly actuated VQ35de as much as the electronically actuated VQ25 cam assemblies but they look similar enough on the camshaft. It seems unusual that you got the car back with the fault...

As the cams run on oil pressure, the viscosity of the oil may play a big part. Any chance it has a thick 20w50 or something in it? That would cause issues in winter I think...

What work was done? Was it at the mechanics?

The hydraulic switch on the cam cover has a small gauze filter on the bottom I seem to remember, this could be blocked I guess. Or one of the actuator pistons may be jammed? I haven't played with the hydraliclly actuated VQ35de as much as the electronically actuated VQ25 cam assemblies but they look similar enough on the camshaft. It seems unusual that you got the car back with the fault...

As the cams run on oil pressure, the viscosity of the oil may play a big part. Any chance it has a thick 20w50 or something in it? That would cause issues in winter I think...

As in whole new engine, turbo put in, engine run in and base tune.

My issues previously was cam had tooth broken off and had cam sensor faults thus me replacing, ecu, clutch/flywheel, all sensors before it was realized it was the cam all along. Now that was fixed i got errors p0021 and p0011 constantly.. Tuner leaned it out top end as my L/100km was 14.7 Hwy driving no boosting! and changed the fuel in the bottom end "cold start up" or something.

So with oil it did it on run in oil (penrite) and now its shell rotella t6 5w40 (used this all the time and never had issues).

From my things to check list
1. 2 seal rings on the back of the cam cover (13035HC)
Checked
2. cam position sensors (p0340 and p0345)
my passenger side cam sensor is my old one as the new one had a upside down graph when tested so faulty ... i am ordering a new one but i would have code p0350 if it was that.
3. Clean or replace vct solenoids
i cleaned the solenoids with brake cleaner, didnt take the mesh gauze off but sprayed it alot,
4. crank position sensor
Its new and no code
5. Low oil
New oil so its fine
6. Check all fuses
Checked a while ago when chasing my original issues, all fine
7. Check all grounding esp timing cover x2
Both are on, good connection
8. Check timing chain firing
Checked
9. Excessive rtv gasket blocking the oil passages and not getting to the cam gear
THe mechanics job didnt look messy but none were found in the solenoids
10. (ohm meter and they were 7.7-7.8 ohms each), ground and apply 12v to see if they open
I applied power to them and watched the solenoid open and close - fine
11. Check power at the plug (must rev motor to 2k+ for the plugs to have voltage)
- Mine are at 12V no matter if on Acc, idle or reving past 2000rpm (i would like to see if others are like this..)
12. Check flywheel, if installed just before the errors started has been installed correctly
Installed correctly
13. Check that the solenoids have a gasket fitted and is in good condition between it and the engine.
- Mine did not have any gaskets, again a screw up by the engine builder
So i think 11. is my issues, possibly 13. but doubt it, new ones are coming either way.

Usually the ecu switches the ground so the solenoid probably does have 12v constant, try shorting the ground side to somewhere on the engine and you should hear it fire.

Any chance you can actuate the cam advance solenoid output from the ecu without the engine running? Does the Haltech allow that in the software?

The hard to start is probably just tuning at a guess, are the new cams aftermarket?

Usually the ecu switches the ground so the solenoid probably does have 12v constant, try shorting the ground side to somewhere on the engine and you should hear it fire.

Any chance you can actuate the cam advance solenoid output from the ecu without the engine running? Does the Haltech allow that in the software?

The hard to start is probably just tuning at a guess, are the new cams aftermarket?

BC Racing stage 2 cams

With hard start i can put stock ecu in and it will fire straight away.

Cam advance solenoid output while engine off, no idea what you mean

Ill try the ground shorting tomorrow. Cheers for the help

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