Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

See attached pics, at this stage its only the 120degree bend from the throttle body down to the inner guard.

It fits perfectly on my HKS Type S kit, and is a tight fit around the oil filler cap. It replaces the longer HKS pipe that runs between the head and radiator.

It has a HKS flange welded to it, and is made from 316 stainless steel, 2.5".

In order to install on your RB20 you need to fiddle with the PCV hoses. Only replacing it as i dont want to pay $300+ for a HKS BOV...so rather start again with a universal fitting for a BOV rather then the HKS flange.

Will also have complete set of HKS Type S cooler piping for sale as of next week.

For the stainless 120 degree bend, lookign for about $180, and the HKS Type S cooler piping about $300 (Does not include any silicon joiners or hose clamps)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42625-r32-ic-piping/
Share on other sites

Only have those crappy digital cameras shots.... and its back on the car now as i bought a HKS imitation BOV, its made by Autotechnica and was only $200 and looks every part the equal of the SSQV i use to have on the car.

So the only thing really for sale now is the section oh HKS pipe that comes from the inner guard, up between the rocker cover and radiator, then bends to join up with the std inlet pipe that has the BOV attached to it.

Price , if you want to haggle then $100, no haggling $80, if you buy my spare Velo seat then its free

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42625-r32-ic-piping/#findComment-874382
Share on other sites

Roy - I'm interested in the smaller pipe as I just put my front mount on this weekend and accidently cut up my PVC pipe (it's the longer one - it's one of the "hot pipes") Just wondering if this is a replacement for it?

PM me if you think it'll fit...(kinda urgent as well).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42625-r32-ic-piping/#findComment-875164
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See my post here If you put the Haltech in, you won't have to worry about any of that. And, in case you're worrying about my lack of credentials in doing your exact swap, I put a Neo in an R32. There has never been a stock boost solenoid near my car and the Neo's ECU has never cared. Nor should it, because it is electronically impossible for it to care.
    • That's 100% wrong. Did you wire in the boost sensor? If you did not, then that is 101% your answer. Neo ECUs do suck a bit.
    • Hello, I'm trying to make this thread basically the thread with all the answers to common questions regarding specifically the RB20 DE NEO + T engine, that comes in the R34. Answers will and only should be provided by those who have done this conversion or actually have some relevant real life experience please. Please feel free to ask questions in the comments if you have any so other members can answer. I feel like this thread is really needed, especially with more Americans buying (unknowingly going to regret it too) rb20 neo r34s. My first question being - What do you guys use for tuning? I have purchased a haltech elite 2500 Plug and play kit for the rb25det NEO because the ecu plug is the same, but I am unsure if any of the pins would need to be repined to match. Second question that I see asked very often - After this conversion, did you install the boost solenoid/ actuator? I see many people doing a + T setup on their rb20 NEOs while running stock RB25DET NEO ECUs with no tune. I am wondering how they are going about doing that and consistently abusing the car because many of these people have had these untuned setups running for a very long time. That was my original plan, but my engine cuts out at 5 psi of boost using the stock ecu with no tune and no boost solenoid/actuator.
    • interesting. ive read and heard otherwise over the past year. ive been doing this +t conversion on a rb20 neo using all oem rb25det neo parts including the ECU, and im having engine cut out issues when I hit around 5 psi of boost. Everywhere/everyone ive asked has told me its because I never wired in a boost solenoid/actuator to the ecu, so the ecu isn't getting the right signal once it hits 5 psi of boost, causing the engine to get shut off.
×
×
  • Create New...