Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm very new here, have been lurking for months but this will be one of my first posts.
As a little introduction, I'm 19,live in W.A, listen to hardcore, and own a GTR.
Notice I did not say "Drive" a gtr. I purchased the car as a motivator to make me get my license. I've owned it for 3 or 4 months now and have yet to drive it, but me and dad go out in it regularly.

But that's enough about me, more about the car.
It's a 1994 R32 GTR V-spec II
Paint is a gunmetal grey.
I have yet to do any modifications to it but there were a few done when I bought it.

  • Apexi PFC
  • Upgraded turbo's (not sure what these are but I can definitely see HKS Actuators under there) currently running 18psi
  • an upgraded exhaust system
  • Blitz Boost gauge
  • HKS EVC
  • HKS Pod filters
  • lgmt2's

The car is pretty stock right now, but I do have big plans for her. I had it tuned and dyno'd a month or two ago and she did 320hp

I will attach a few pictures I have.
Plates are GDZLA

post-108180-0-65708400-1370243017_thumb.jpg

post-108180-0-93015000-1370243018_thumb.jpg

post-108180-0-59086200-1370243019_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426324-r32-gtr-v-spec-ii/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maybe but doubt it, when I jacked it up it was creaking in the j arm again. The inners are all good, I inspected them. Remember that also it did fix the problem but temporarily.
    • Could be the other bushes. The inners.
    • Once you lose the adjustable bushes, you have almost no adjustment at the front for anything that matters. You can only wind so master caster at the front, and ~7° is fine. You won't have choice of front camber. If you only have rear camber arms (ie, do not also have adjustable upper tension arms), you shouldn't change their length very much, because you will introduce bump steer. And, you will struggle to find a workshop that will be capable of doing all the adjustment work necessary to simultaneously achieve a decent rear camber number, get the toe right, and minimise bump steer. I would guess there's probably 8 hours of work there. So, stockish rear camber is fine. Although, keep in mind, that stock camber, by number value, does not mean stock arm length when the car is lowered. You will need to lengthen the RUCA to get back to stockish values and that will require the tension arm to be lengthened a little also. Without any other guidance, any change made to the RUCA should have the 2/3 of the same change made on the tension arm. But that is only a rough rule of thumb and the relationship might not remain linear across a wide range of adjustments. And it might not also be as close to minimum bump steer as you could achieve if you did the bump steer measurement and adjustment properly.
    • Well it does have a motor with the same DNA as an Accord V6 motor. The J30A is a successor to the Tiger rice cooker C32A motor found in those cars.
    • FD RX7 I would probably marry if legal R32 GTR is toughest NSX looks like it's made from leftover Prelude and Accord bits  
×
×
  • Create New...