Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is vct working correctly. That looks like pretty lazy response.

If im honest i dont know whats up.

Dex is unsure also. Dunno where to go from here... Will give it a burst at the drags and see what i think

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Well i cant take a trick.

Took both cars down to the drags sat. And both went poorly!

The torana had 2 runs in and on the second run broke the casting around the alternator and had to coast it home as it was getting hot.

And worse for the Skyline. 1st gear and second gear ran beautifully. But as soon as you but it into 3rd, or 4th, it coughed spluttered and backfired. No acceleration and breaking down something shocking. needless to say nearly $1500 worth of tunning and its still not right. Unsure what the problem was...

So the torana ran a 12.1 which was shocking and the skyline a 13.5 which again was no where near it for either! Only positive is 13.5 isnt bad for coasting from just over the half way point... hopefully see a high 11 out of it

Back to the drawing board tho!!

f852d7b0-85b5-4114-897c-db454a0a6f2a_zps

10314721_10155469568005215_8128212863039

10421201_10203815518177461_2508079496922

Without reading anything in the thread. Main reasons for it being laggy.

Exhaust restriction, cam timing, poor tune, VCT issue. It will most likely be one of those.

Thanks mate, will take it somewhere else to get a second opinion on tune etc.

haha defs not an exhaust restriction as it only has about 3 feet of exhaust

  • 4 months later...

Long time coming but i got the car tuned, again. This time by a different tuner and to say it was tuned badly seems an understatement.

Havent had a chance to take it out to the drags again but have a drift prac day coming up in 3 weeks i think, so will test it out then

attached the new dyno print out

post-33454-0-75076200-1440467476_thumb.jpg

post-33454-0-43456200-1440467490_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...

Well took it drifting sat.....

could be over kill for me trying to learn lol...

Jumped in a few other cars with much less power and some MUCH more responsive and made learning easier.

But damn was it fun / fast!

The clutch either let go at the end of the day or the spoigot is sticking or something. so will have to fix that. but the poor little thing got a hammering and ran well all day.

The tidy up will start soon. trying to source a r33 gtr front bumper and also some head lights....

Will post pics as i can find them

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey guys,  I'm after some advice and this here is the best place to get it imo. I was a member a looong time ago under another account, with a lost email address. Its nice to jump back on and see some of the same names still giving good advice.  I mothballed my car when i moved to perth in 2013, and after getting towed across the nullabor a few times it has officially done more km's on a trailer than under its own power. Now that i have started the process of tidying up and modifying it, i see the fruit available (and the fruiterers selling the produce) is different than back in the day. hence my questions, as i used to 'know' what to get and now, i'm not so sure. Engine wise the car (92 gtst) has a walbro 255, k+n, fmic, cam gears and and turbo back 3"exhaust. Wish list is a Hypergear high flow or ATR43G1, Link G4x and some newer injectors before a tune up. My goals are modest, only low 200's power wise. i know i could achieve this with less, but i've been swapping out old for new where i can. Every cooling hose has been replaced, along with mani gaskets, WP, thermostat and radiator, fuel pump and timing belt, tensioner and idler, and i rebuilt the steering rack. Regarding the injectors, the fruiterers all seem to sell what used to be considered quite large injectors. There are a lot of options for bosch 1000cc EV14's, and i would like to know if that is a suitable choice for my build. Is modern injector design good enough to run these at the low duty cycles that i likely would be? is there a downside to running a too large injector these days? or, would there be an upside to running a smaller injector at higher duty cycle? I can see that there are smaller injectors still available, but the ones i have seen specifically marketed for RB's are pretty large (see: https://golebysparts.au/collections/fuel-rail-injector-kits/products/nissan-rb20-fuel-rail-bosch-980cc-1150cc-injectors-turbosmart-fpr800-regulator-kit), and i dont know enough about them to say one not marketed for RB's would fit or not. I have searched the forums, and amongst all the posts on older tech, I did see gtsboy recommend EV14's, but no size was mentioned... again, i'm not clear on if the smaller size bosch injectors are also EV14's as they do look similar.  also, if someone can recommend a tuner familiar with RB's in the Geelong or West Melbourne area i'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance guys. Cheers, Rowdy  
    • FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
    • As well as being risky WRT tipping off anyway. Yeah, I wouldn't expect it to move. Just measure from the rear one to the front one on the good side, then measure that same length on the wrecked side. You will find the notches in the pinchweld, and the jacking pad. Just spray a spot of marker paint or something there.
×
×
  • Create New...