Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Including Nisomid? Who just SAID 5 MINUTES AGO it makes absolutely FA difference both top end and response, so the placebo of the better exhaust sound has gotten the better of u .

I've known people to revert back to smaller front pipes on sr20 to get better response to response for drifting so I assumed dump pipe/s would be the same.

And people said when they put on a bigger exhaust they lost some low end response but made up for it in top end power. So If u think more free flowing the better, then why don't u put on a 5 or 6" exhaust" ? you'll be the fastest car on the dyno in the world then

That's not what i said at all.

What i said is - on the topic at hand - 330rwkw/GT-SS/PULP - there was no discernible difference. I also said i did not lose any bottom end. Which you conveniently ignored for some reason.

E85 you might need to go larger, you might not, but you've gotta weigh up the costs to justify and for most - it wouldn't be viable over the setup the OP already has unless he was chasing every last iota of it (but then doing cams & head gasket was kinda a non-required spend already, so guessing money to burn there)

Disco Pumpkin isn't even right from a theoretical point of view. There is absolutely nothing to suggest that bigger dumps would cost response. To suggest so is just daft.

Bigger dumps (and bigger everywhere in the exhaust) means less back pressure on the turbine at absolutely any operating condition. That then means that there is a possible greater pressure drop across the turbine when means you can spin it up faster. If nothing else, then the reduced back pressure just reports all the way across the turbine (so pressure drop across the turbine remains the same) and then you have lower exhaust manifold pressure. At the very least there is nothing to suggest that response should be negatively affected and there are at least a couple of ways that either the turbo or the engine itself would be happier about the situation and possibly give better response.

Edited by GTSBoy

He makes 475kw out of low mount turbos and makes power pretty much from idle, so I think he has a bit of an idea about an exhaust that works!

↑↑↑ THIS! Piggaz car is faarkin mental in everyway the setup is nothing short of amazing! So I suggest a lil more research pumpkinhead ;) Piggaz knows his shit! Clearly you dont!
I think there's a good reason why his name is pumpkin. ;) Sums it up doesn't it.

Thread does provide good lols

r32 -r33-r34 dump pipe are all different, the r32 one are crap, the r33 ones are a massive improvement and the r34 ones are improved again, if you are looking for a budget upgrade then the r34 ones would be my pick for your setup with 2.75 into 3.5 front pipes, 3.5 cat and catback

the reduction of back pressure from the turbo outlet creates a bigger pressure difference between manifold and exhaust this inturn forces the exhaust gases through the turbo at greater speeds which means the turbine will accelerate much faster increasing response ( just a different way of saying what GTSboy has previously said )

I use CES split dump pipes on both my cars and I swear by them, the problem with split dumps is if they aren't made right they can cause issues where the wastegate gases rejoin the main flow and create turbulence and inturn backpressure, if made right they are the best setup IMO and my 32 is proof of that, as for bellmouth dumps they are very hard to get wrong and give alot more consistency form one brand to another

I have had HKS dump pipes and very much dislike them and the Xforce ones are a cheap copy, I went from stock R34 dumps to HKS dump and that was a small step backwards, I then replaced them with the CES comp series ones and that was a massive improvement over both, that was on a stock 2.6 with type R poncams and -7s

Thanks guys !! great input


Yeah ill keep my exhaust :)


I didn't really want to get rid of it neway, Im all about responsive power... I believe thats gna crack my 10.99
std turbos and std ecu i did 11.8... hoping for a 10 after this.


JEM said my exhaust will be fine .. Ill save my money.

The exhaust is HKS Dumps, HKS Fronts, Metallic 100cell by Hakan and custom catback from Hakan. @ Performance exhaust centre. I like the note its a true note... Oval Muffler.

Edited by sultanaz

That's not what i said at all.

What i said is - on the topic at hand - 330rwkw/GT-SS/PULP - there was no discernible difference. I also said i did not lose any bottom end. Which you conveniently ignored for some reason.

E85 you might need to go larger, you might not, but you've gotta weigh up the costs to justify and for most - it wouldn't be viable over the setup the OP already has unless he was chasing every last iota of it (but then doing cams & head gasket was kinda a non-required spend already, so guessing money to burn there)

Yeah i know cams & headgasket wasnt required but at the same time im pulling this head off with my mate. So im not gna be spending thousands in labour.

I know it probably wont pop the head with the arp studs but my weekend gtr takes drives as far as nowra so the more reliability i can get the better i say.

Cams was recommended by Jem and crd so i went with it. :) thanks for your helpful posts too mate.

Disco Pumpkin isn't even right from a theoretical point of view. There is absolutely nothing to suggest that bigger dumps would cost response. To suggest so is just daft.

Bigger dumps (and bigger everywhere in the exhaust) means less back pressure on the turbine at absolutely any operating condition. That then means that there is a possible greater pressure drop across the turbine when means you can spin it up faster. If nothing else, then the reduced back pressure just reports all the way across the turbine (so pressure drop across the turbine remains the same) and then you have lower exhaust manifold pressure. At the very least there is nothing to suggest that response should be negatively affected and there are at least a couple of ways that either the turbo or the engine itself would be happier about the situation and possibly give better response.

Is this guy 4 real? So why u don't have a 6 inch exhaust then? that's the million dollar question on everyones mind because according to your theory absolutely no backpressure is the key to HP and at the same time you don't loose any response, omg omg, I'm calling my tuner tomorrow to get him to put the worlds biggest exhaust on.

So tell me then whats stopped u then I wonder from putting on a 6 inch exhaust like u say considering how much extra hp you'll gain from all this "no backpressure" wizardry

Yeah i know cams & headgasket wasnt required but at the same time im pulling this head off with my mate. So im not gna be spending thousands in labour.

.

But instead you'll be spending thousands on cam shafts, cam gears, springs and headgasket for your "weekend GTR"- ok cool. Might I ask how many km's this 20 year old beast has accumulated?

You are a complete f**k knuckle.

Is this guy 4 real? So why u don't have a 6 inch exhaust then? that's the million dollar question on everyones mind because according to your theory absolutely no backpressure is the key to HP and at the same time you don't loose any response, omg omg, I'm calling my tuner tomorrow to get him to put the worlds biggest exhaust on.

So tell me then whats stopped u then I wonder from putting on a 6 inch exhaust like u say considering how much extra hp you'll gain from all this "no backpressure" wizardry

  • Like 1

Lol.

Besides a 6 inch exhaust being completely impractical and dragging on the road, you reach a point of diminishing returns, dependant on your power goals. It also gets exponentially harder to quieten the exhaust to a reasonable level.

Some exhausts, even though the pipe size is large, don't flow well. Just because you have a 3.5 inch system it doesn't mean it will flow 350-400kw. That is a best case scenario and relies on the exhaust being well designed and internally smooth, with no restrictions as found inside most Jap mufflers.

In my testing, the bigger the dump the better. It allows more air to flow which makes more power, and response improves, but it needs to be well designed to get those gains, the rest is up to the tuner...

you reach a point of diminishing returns, dependant on your power goals.

Some exhausts, even though the pipe size is large, don't flow well. Just because you have a 3.5 inch system it doesn't mean it will flow 350-400kw.

That's my point exactly, is that everyone these kids come along and they autmotacially think bigger the better or more the better and forgetting diminishing returns. Generally when something goes bigger u loose in other areas, that's why stock turbos best for response, go any bigger and u loose response. Go bigger cams and u loose response again unless u got say HKS v cam.

Like I said I thought i'm happy to accept that bigger dump pipes don't loose bottom end power, I just assumed this because I know guys who were putting on smaller front pipes to get more response and torque down low. Anyway people can do what they wana do, if they wana go spend thousands then by all means be my guest, I know I wont loose any sleep over being in debt to a car.

What would you recommend for this guy, Disco? Exhaust ports back...

1. I would of lol'd if it was funny and 2. If it made any sense?!#!

  • Like 1

1. I would of lol'd if it was funny and 2. If it made any sense?!#!

What on earth are you on about mate? I'm asking you, seeing that I'm obviously wrong in your eyes, what exhaust setup would you recommend for the OP?

Sigh. Ok discodickhead. Please go search a little subject involving pressure difference between exhaust manifold and inlet manifold. Then, after you get your puny brain around that, search the next subject. Exhaust scavenge, velocity and pressure balance vs flow dynamic properties of hot gas. There is a reason the most obvious of all machines, trucks, use large bore exhausts that are short, smooth and free flowing. I know that in most cases, the turbocharger is designed specifically for a particular engine capacity and configuration as not having a responsive boost control method on the exhaust housing may blow your mind, but the theory is exactly the same. The pressure difference between the inlet and exhaust manifolds need to be different, the less pressure in the exhaust manifold, the faster the turbocharger can compress, therefore fill the cylinder and in turn, increasing performance and most importantly, response. The more air you can get in, the more air you can burn and get out. Next subject will really rattle you. Volumetric efficiency. Actually, fcuk it. Your a deadset spastic. Just google shart. That's about what your good for.

  • Like 1

I have had HKS dump pipes and very much dislike them and the Xforce ones are a cheap copy, I went from stock R34 dumps to HKS dump and that was a small step backwards, I then replaced them with the CES comp series ones and that was a massive improvement over both, that was on a stock 2.6 with type R poncams and -7s

What difference did you notice exactly going from the HKS dumps to R34 one's?

discoPumkin, you might want to do a little more research before you keep rambling on.

What Piggaz is trying to say is what exhaust setup would you recommend for the OP straight off the head? If you had to pick a manifold and everything.

I seriously think I've had smarter farts than you have had thoughts in your entire pointless existence in this world.

Hugs and kisses, Allan

OMG it's Allan from the hangover, it all makes sense now I had an inkling that u were retarted but now my fears have been confirmed. Mr 1 man wolfpack please go back to workin on mums Barina and leave us alone, geez u been on here for 7 years and not even a mod or a sponsor so your not getting any income, your posts are all in vein

What would you recommend for this guy, Disco? Exhaust ports back...

standard many, 34 or CES dumps and 3" dumps back with a decat if possible

Remember in the other thread I said 3.5" cat back was perfect which is what u have, so i'm not saying your wrong. I'm saying Its not worth him going to 3.5'' or 4" when he already has the 3". Some people need to do more research on MONEY SPENT vs GAINS coz sometimes it gets beyond ridiculous some of the things people wana do say for instance if it's just a street car. A guy know put it to me like this "In all the money I've spent on my 32 GTR I could have easily brought a 34 GTR". I saw another guy selling his 33 GTR say he had spent 70K on it..

Some people can get a bit to excited I think and regret later, so that's what I said do ya research on whats worth it and whats not and weight that up with your purpose ie street, drift, drag etc. Piggaz apart from selecting the wrong turbos and exhaust from the start, but after doing your homework I gota admit great results in the end so well done, dunno how much all that shenanigans cost but :wacko:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jdm DC2R is also nice for a FF car compared to the regular hatches of the time.
    • Now that the break-in period for both clutch and transmission is nearly over I'd like to give some tips before I forget about everything that happened, also for anyone searching up how to do this job in the future: You will need at least 6 ton jack stands at full extension. I would go as far as to say maybe consider 12 ton jack stands because the height of the transmission + the Harbor Freight hydraulic platform-style transmission jack was enough that it was an absolute PITA getting the transmission out from under the car and back in. The top edge of the bellhousing wants to contact the subframe and oil pan and if you're doing this on the floor forget about trying to lift this transmission off the ground and onto a transmission jack from under the car. Also do not try to use a scissor jack transmission lift. You have to rotate the damn thing in-place on the transmission jack which is hard enough with an adjustable platform and a transmission cradle that will mostly keep the transmission from rolling off the jack but on a scissor lift with a tiny non-adjustable platform? Forget it. Use penetrating oil on the driveshaft bolts. I highly recommend getting a thin 6 point combination (box end + open end) wrench for both the rear driveshaft and front driveshaft and a wrench extension. These bolts are on tight with very little space to work with and those two things together made a massive difference. Even a high torque impact wrench is just the wrong tool for the job here and didn't do what I needed it to do. If your starter bolts aren't seized in place for whatever reason you can in fact snake in a 3/8 inch ratchet + 6 point standard chrome socket up in there and "just" remove the bolts for the starter. Or at least I could. It is entirely by feel, you can barely fit it in, you can barely turn the stupid ratchet, but it is possible. Pull the front pipe/downpipe before you attempt to remove the transmission. In theory you don't have to, in practice just do it.  When pulling the transmission on the way out you don't have to undo all the bolts holding the rear driveshaft to the chassis like the center support bearing and the rear tunnel reinforcement bar but putting the transmission back in I highly recommend doing this because it will let you raise the transmission without constantly dealing with the driveshaft interfering in one way or another. I undid the bottom of the engine mount but I honestly don't know that it helped anything. If you do this make sure you put a towel on the back of the valve cover to keep the engine from smashing all the pipes on the firewall. Once the transmission has been pulled back far enough to clear the dowels you need to twist it in place clockwise if you're sitting behind the transmission. This will rotate the starter down towards the ground. The starter bump seems like it might clear if you twist the transmission the other way but it definitely won't. I have scraped the shit out of my transmission tunnel trying so learn from my mistake. You will need a center punch and an appropriate size drill bit and screw to pull the rear main seal. Then use vice grips and preferably a slide hammer attachment for those vice grips to yank the seal out. Do not let the drill or screw contact any part of the crank and clean the engine carefully after removing the seal to avoid getting metal fragments into the engine. I used a Slide Hammer and Bearing Puller Set, 5 Piece from Harbor Freight to pull the old pilot bearing. The "wet paper towel" trick sucked and just got dirty clutch water everywhere. Buy the tool or borrow it from a friend and save yourself the pain. It comes right out. Mine was very worn compared to the new one and it was starting to show cracks. Soak it in engine oil for a day in case yours has lost all of the oil to the plastic bag it comes in. You may be tempted to get the Nismo aftermarket pilot bearing but local mechanics have told me that they fail prematurely and if they do fail they do far more damage than a failed OEM pilot bushing. I mentioned this before but the Super Coppermix Twin clutch friction disks are in fact directional. The subtle coning of the fingers in both cases should be facing towards the center of the hub. So the coning on the rearmost disk closest to the pressure plate should go towards the engine, and the one closest to the flywheel should be flipped the other way. Otherwise when you torque down the pressure plate it will be warped and if you attempt to drive it like this it will make a very nasty grinding noise. Also, there is in fact an orientation to the washers for the pressure plate if you don't want to damage the anodizing. Rounded side of the washer faces the pressure plate. The flat side faces the bolt head. Pulling the transmission from the transfer case you need to be extremely careful with the shift cover plate. This part is discontinued. Try your best to avoid damaging the mating surfaces or breaking the pry points. I used a dead blow rubber hammer after removing the bolts to smack it sideways to slide it off the RTV the previous mechanic applied. I recommend using gasket dressing on the OEM paper gasket to try and keep the ATF from leaking out of that surface which seems to be a perpetual problem. Undoing the shifter rod end is an absolute PITA. Get a set of roll pin punches. Those are mandatory for this. Also I strongly, strongly recommend getting a palm nailer that will fit your roll pin punch. Also, put a clean (emphasis on clean) towel wrapped around the back end of the roll pin to keep it from shooting into the transfer case so you can spend a good hour or two with a magnet on a stick getting it out. Do not damage the shifter rod end either because those are discontinued as well. Do not use aftermarket flywheel bolts. Or if you do, make sure they are exactly the same dimensions as OEM before you go to install them. I have seen people mention that they got the wrong bolts and it meant having to do the job again. High torque impact wrench makes removal easy. I used some combination of a pry bar and flathead screwdriver to keep the flywheel from turning but consider just buying a proper flywheel lock instead. Just buy the OS Giken clutch alignment tool from RHDJapan. I hated the plastic alignment tool and you will never be confident this thing will work as intended. Don't forget to install the Nismo provided clutch fork boot. Otherwise it will make unearthly noises when you press the clutch pedal as it says on the little installation sheet in Japanese. Also, on both initial disassembly and assembly you must follow torque sequence for the pressure plate bolts. For some reason the Nismo directions tell you to put in the smaller 3 bolts last. I would not do this. Fully insert and thread those bolts to the end first, then tighten the other larger pressure plate bolts according to torque sequence. Then at the end you can also torque these 3 smaller bolts. Doing it the other way can cause these bolts to bind and the whole thing won't fit as it should. Hope this helps someone out there.
    • Every one has seemed to of have missed . . . . . . . The Mazda Cosmo . . . . . . what a MACHINE ! !
×
×
  • Create New...