Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  Pistolpete said:
g day ppl  

just curious about NOS, any one runng it atm or run it befrore?????

iv heard it is really dangerous??  

any and all info would b good  

thanks ppl

There's 2 system DRY and WET.

The DRY system is the not so safe way but it cheaper, as you add the NOS to the fuel feed pipe so you can't give high doses and it needs to be at a lower amount than a WET system.

Because if you try to pump in too much you could get a back flash where the left over NOS in the fuel pipe will explode.

A WET sytem is the safer yet deaer system, It's deaer because it takes a bit more skill to install etc.

Anyway, how a WET system works is that the fuel and NOS are mixed at the injector, so you'll need a need injector the NOS kit will includes these, The reason why it's safer is that you can't get any back flash so the fuel pipe won't explode etc.

You can buy kits yourself and install them yourself these include both types of kit.

A kit has a computer and links up with the ECU etc, and injects some much NOS at the right times as you can see you need to know what the right times and the right amounts are the reason why it can be unsafe.

Before you go and get NOS thuogh, you'll want to have forged everything in the engine, this means forged pistions, con-rods, crank sharft, etc other wise the first time you go to use it the NOS will shove a pistion through your engine and out the other side maybe even completely out the car.

An example of the speed:

No NOS

your doing 140klms along a road, put the foot down and it might take 8 seconds to get to 200klms.

With NOS

Your doing 140klms along the road, put the foot down and hit the button in 1-2 second your already over 200klms and getting really shoved back into the seat.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42652-nos/#findComment-871528
Share on other sites

You dont need forged everything with a NOS setup, you can run a low hp shot 50 ~ 75 without harming your motor as long as its not on the edge of its peformance limit with stock internals. Most people hook nos up to give them the added power to thier stockish motor so you dont have to spend thousands to make it that powerfull 24/7.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42652-nos/#findComment-871538
Share on other sites

did you know that if you heated your engine up to a really high temperature itd make its own naws? :rofl: No really, Nitrogen Dioxide is formed at really high temperatures due to the covalence of the nitrogen and oxygen molecuse. providing the oxygen hasn't been used up already int he combustion.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42652-nos/#findComment-871615
Share on other sites

  Quote
The DRY system is the not so safe way but it cheaper, as you add the NOS to the fuel feed pipe so you can't give high doses and it needs to be at a lower amount than a WET system.

Because if you try to pump in too much you could get a back flash where the left over NOS in the fuel pipe will explode.

A WET sytem is the safer yet deaer system, It's deaer because it takes a bit more skill to install etc.

Anyway, how a WET system works is that the fuel and NOS are mixed at the injector, so you'll need a need injector the NOS kit will includes these, The reason why it's safer is that you can't get any back flash so the fuel pipe won't explode etc.

You can buy kits yourself and install them yourself these include both types of kit.

A kit has a computer and links up with the ECU etc, and injects some much NOS at the right times as you can see you need to know what the right times and the right amounts are the reason why it can be unsafe.

Before you go and get NOS thuogh, you'll want to have forged everything in the engine, this means forged pistions, con-rods, crank sharft, etc other wise the first time you go to use it the NOS will shove a pistion through your engine and out the other side maybe even completely out the car.

An example of the speed:

No NOS

your doing 140klms along a road, put the foot down and it might take 8 seconds to get to 200klms.

With NOS

Your doing 140klms along the road, put the foot down and hit the button in 1-2 second your already over 200klms and getting really shoved back into the seat.

No. :rofl: Couldn't be bothered quoting all the wrong bits.

Anyway,

If you intend on running a relatively small shot (most people run wet kits on their skylines), of about 50-75hp then you can simply run the right spark plugs and retard your timing a little bit.

You absolutely do NOT have to have forged internals to run nitrous. Think about it this way:

You have a stock motor - If you fitted a bigger turbo than stock, bigger injectors and manifold to suit and made an extra 100hp over stock you'd have a certain amount of extra pressure/load on your internal components, (rods, pistons etc).

Then if you take the same stock motor, add enough nitrous to make an extra 100hp, you have roughly the same load/pressure on the internal components as with the bigger turbo.

Just remember, making more power in an internal combustion engine can only happen by burning more fuel with more oxygen. Nitrous Oxide use introduces vast amounts of oxygen so you can burn more fuel - just like a bigger turbo, camshaft change, air filter change etc.

Hope this helps. To see the results of a stock motored R33 gtst running a small shot of gas click here: http://per4mancevids.com/2rismo_11.9.mpg

Adrian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42652-nos/#findComment-871806
Share on other sites

  funkymonkey said:
did you know that if you heated your engine up to a really high temperature itd make its own naws? :) No really, Nitrogen Dioxide is formed at really high temperatures due to the covalence of the nitrogen and oxygen molecuse. providing the oxygen hasn't been used up already int he combustion.

Nitrous oxide (dinitrogen oxide), N2O, is formed when ammonium nitrate, NH4NO3, is heated.

Copied from HERE

At room temperature, N2O is quite unreactive with most substances, including alkali metals, halogens, and even ozone. It is therefore widely used as a propellant in aerosol cans in place of the CFCs which can damage the ozone layer. When heated sufficiently, however, N2O decomposes exothermically to N2 and O2.

If this reaction occurs in the combustion chamber of an automobile, 3 moles of gas would be produced from 2 moles, providing an extra boost to the piston, as well as liberating more heat. It also has a number of other benefits. The increased oxygen provides more efficient combustion of fuel, the nitrogen buffers the increased cylinder pressure controlling the combustion, and the latent heat of vaporisation of the N2O reduces the intake temperature. Therefore N2O is occasionally injected into the fuel lines of racing cars to give more power to the engine and to give the car exceptional acceleration.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42652-nos/#findComment-872036
Share on other sites

  Zagan said:
There's 2 system DRY and WET.

The DRY system is the not so safe way but it cheaper,  as you add the NOS to the fuel feed pipe so you can't give high doses and it needs to be at a lower amount than a WET system.

Because if you try to pump in too much you could get a back flash where the left over NOS in the fuel pipe will explode.

A WET sytem is the safer yet deaer system, It's deaer because it takes a bit more skill to install etc.

Anyway,  how a WET system works is that the fuel and NOS are mixed at the injector, so you'll need a need injector the NOS kit will includes these,  The reason why it's safer is that you can't get any back flash so the fuel pipe won't explode etc.

You can buy kits yourself and install them yourself these include both types of kit.

A kit has a computer and links up with the ECU etc, and injects some much NOS at the right times as you can see you need to know what the right times and the right amounts are the reason why it can be unsafe.

Before you go and get NOS thuogh,  you'll want to have forged everything in the engine,  this means forged pistions, con-rods, crank sharft, etc other wise the first time you go to use it the NOS will shove a pistion through your engine and out the other side maybe even completely out the car.

An example of the speed:

No NOS

your doing 140klms along a road, put the foot down and it might take 8 seconds to get to 200klms.

With NOS

Your doing 140klms along the road, put the foot down and hit the button in 1-2 second your already over 200klms and getting really shoved back into the seat.

Okay... Almost EVERY SINGLE THING you have said in this post is COMPLETELY WRONG

Congratulations.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42652-nos/#findComment-872965
Share on other sites

  2rismo said:
You have a stock motor - If you fitted a bigger turbo than stock, bigger injectors and manifold to suit and made an extra 100hp over stock you'd have a certain amount of extra pressure/load on your internal components, (rods, pistons etc).

Then if you take the same stock motor, add enough nitrous to make an extra 100hp, you have roughly the same load/pressure on the internal components as with the bigger turbo.

Basically yes, but running Nitrous Oxide as opposed to most boost is harder on the engine (especially standard internals) because of the MASSIVE heat cycles it subjects the cylinders and piston crowns and rings to...

When the nitrous is injected into the intake runners/intake manifold, it immediately begins to boil and rapidly expand; the pressure drop will cause the temperature to decrease dramatically. Nitrous boils at 53.9°C below zero.

When it hits the cylinders, COOLS everything immensely.

Then combustion occurs, and an almightly fire burns, HEATING everything up a lot more than what the manufacturers spec'ed it out for...

Repeat this cycle 8000 times per minutes (8000rpm) and you'll soon see how hard nitrous is on the engine.

A small shot like 50-75hp is fine though, and any good condition engine can take that without any modifications.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42652-nos/#findComment-872997
Share on other sites

as merli said the most common reason why engines fail due to nitrous is the instantaneous heating and cooling of a system, a turbo systemon the other hand just gets hotter n hotter. Both are bad, but the quick temperature variance wrecks havoc on the stucture of the bonds in metal, and after a while they give. Its just like a glass, put a glass in your freezer and then pour hot water into it and it'll crack... NOS does the same thing to an engine just on a more grander level.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42652-nos/#findComment-873011
Share on other sites

coolies so just a standard wet shot for about 75hp would not damage the standard interanls. nice.

What abou the whole safety issue, iv heard some really bad thigs like if ur in a small crash the car basically explodes so ur farked.

do they go BANG easily????

also do u need 2 be going high speeds to use it??? and how long would each shot last???

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42652-nos/#findComment-873097
Share on other sites

This thread has some of the most ill informed comments I have seen for a long time.

N2O has been used for a long time and is well tested.

As with any engine, if you increase the power (via a bigger turbo or N2O) it will eventuallt break something. Dont try and get an extra 300hp with N2O (or anything else) and expect your engine to survive for the long haul.

$ for $ N2O is probably the best performance mod you can get.

You wouldn't add a new turbo without dynoing it to set the ignition and fuel up correctly, and the same applies for N2O. Done correctly by someone with experience it is a safe and effective mod.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42652-nos/#findComment-873250
Share on other sites

Do a search in Street rodder sites or mags Street rodder had done a review of 10 wet and dry system that you could install yourself.

In perth a company does NOS installs into magnas they have a great website about NOS in cars.

The reason why I said you'd want to up the internals is so you don't shove a piston out your engine, If your concered about safty then you'll want to really up the internals period.

This is a FAQ by Holly a NOS kits maker.

http://www.speed-sports.com/holley/NOS_FAQ.html

This is a pic of a NOS setup.

http://www.speed-sports.com/holley/images/NOS_half.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42652-nos/#findComment-873285
Share on other sites

  4door_Sleeper said:
This thread has some of the most ill informed comments I have seen for a long time.

And a comment like this is just as useless, without qualifying which statements you think are ill-informed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42652-nos/#findComment-873330
Share on other sites

  Zagan said:
Do a search in Street rodder sites or mags Street rodder had done a review of 10 wet and dry system that you could install yourself.

In perth a company does NOS installs into magnas they have a great website about NOS in cars.

The reason why I said you'd want to up the internals is so you don't shove a piston out your engine,  If your concered about safty then you'll want to really up the internals period.

This is a FAQ by Holly a NOS kits maker.

http://www.speed-sports.com/holley/NOS_FAQ.html

This is a pic of a NOS setup.

http://www.speed-sports.com/holley/images/NOS_half.jpg

NOS = Holley. Holley created the brand name ' NOS ' and has been using nos is applications since the mid 70's...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42652-nos/#findComment-873455
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
×
×
  • Create New...