Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okay so even though this is a fairly straight forward job. I'll post a how to any way. This is how you install a nismo fuel pump.

Before you do anything please make sure your battery is disconnected your fuel lid open and you have at the most a quarter tank of fuel.

Your pump access is located on the rear right side under your parcel shelf in the boot. It is covered by a panel with screws

post-101240-1376904185037_thumb.jpg

Undo screws disconnect all sensor clips and make sure you have plenty of rags handy or a oil tray to collect fuel from fuel lines.

post-101240-13769041940263_thumb.jpg

To get the black cap off use a plastic screwdriver and a rubber mallet to turn it anti clockwise. Use 5/10 force. Make sure you make a rough mark as to where the black cap started. There is an arrow on the white plastic that shows where the mark needs to be tightened to

Remove cap. Pry open plastic cover and remove rubber lining. Remove hose connections underneath cover

To remove fuel pump. Gently pull up. It is located just behind right rear passenger seat against the wall. It is not bolted on. It uses a hook latch system

Here is a comparison. The stock pump on the right is actually closer to the camera making it appear larger but it is in fact tiny compared to the Nismo.

post-101240-13769042081709_thumb.jpg

The Nismo bracket clicks into the existing plastic housing. Feed the filter element in first making sure it makes its way lower and deeper into the fuel tank.

It will take you a few tries to mount the Nismo. Make sure it has clicked into the plastic bracket and that you haven't just fit it in between the bracket and the wall of the car. The pump should sit straight and not move.

Connect all hoses and mountings. Change fuel filter. Re attach battery. Place car on On then start vehicle.

post-101240-13769044297146_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

After driving along all day you can just hear the pleasant whirring of the Nismo pump. It is in no way loud or audible inside the cabin. Highly recommended. Fuel pump and filter was done at 81000kms

Um good question. At this level of modifying i didn't feel the need to. The pump itself was a sizeable upgrade to stock. You can do it if you want to im sure you would get a higher voltage/efficiency.

Um good question. At this level of modifying i didn't feel the need to. The pump itself was a sizeable upgrade to stock. You can do it if you want to im sure you would get a higher voltage/efficiency.

Makes sense. Thinking about doing similar mods - currently in planning phase :)

Keep 'em coming.

  • Like 1

I believe the Nismo pump is designed to run with the lower voltage that the pump speed controller supplies them with. The issue with aftermarket pumps like Bosch and Walbro is they are designed to work at 14v and they struggle with lower voltage.

So Yeh, shouldn't need to rewire for the Nismo.

  • Like 2

Yeah mine has a mind of its own. After the pump, injector, fuel filter and spark replacement my car seems to be running better and it does feel like it pulls a bit better. But it's ducking fuel like no tomorrow. I'm desperately in need of a tune.

Nice build mate. Red is the fastest colour besides blue ;) That 200kw mark the neo will S$%T it in. My 33 just had the turbo hi flowed and a 355kw AEM fuel pump put in. On stock ECU, Injectors, with 3 inch exhaust and 10psi made 195kw @ the wheels :) and 98BP ultimate fuel :P Oh and she has 200,000km so with those mods your looking at my mate had a similar in his GTT and made 235ish :)

Keep up the good work.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I replaced the whole clutch line with the chase bays braided hose, I think it removes that loop, is it the short hose that comes immediately off the slave or is there a drawing in the manual to find what you’re referring to? It was just re-bled when I upgraded to the nismo slave, old slave worked fine but I thought that might help, didn’t change a thing. It’s like the first half of the pedal is pushing air and then when it finally actuates the master the friction zone is tiny. Makes it practically impossible to launch the car
    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
×
×
  • Create New...