Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeap. I'm just looking at coilpacks, fuel pump and maybe a short shift kit too. Just reading on the forums at the moment for some more information and recommendations.

Plenty of info on here, if you get stuck just ask one of us and we will be happy to help....

Splitfire coilpacks are tried and tested, fuel pump choice depends on your goals etc and as for the shifter kit, i have the Nismo but i dont believe its much shorter..... Good shift feel tho :)

Oh, if you want to join SAU NSW too, there is some info in this thread -

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/365434-s-a-u-n-s-w-club-membership-faq/

Its pretty handy if you plan to do any events or want access to the NSW members section :D

I just wanted to mention a side note that occurred while I was installing the intercooler. The kit was not designed with a nipple for a hose on the pipe going into the I.p. So I bought a threading kit and threaded a brass nozzle onto it. I bought the nozzle from autobarn. It looks like this

post-101240-13710316379618_thumb.jpg

Some people say it's a power steering sensor something. I'm not too sure what it's for.

Edited by Therealsandybang
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

So. Alot has happened since the last time I posted.

post-101240-13746278582666_thumb.jpg

This came out of my radiator. It looks like they used tap water in the coolant when. They were in Japan. After spending hours flushing and reflushing the radiator I got rid of the gunk.

I opted not to use radiator flush. As I didn't want larger pieces to break off and get stuck in my core all at once. Instead I refilled the radiator with water. Ran the car with high heat and aircon on and drained and flushed the fluid with hot water. It worked a treat.

I used nulon llc as it is very close to nissan llc spec. I used a 50/50 llc to distilled water ratio.

Everything is looking nice and new and running well

I got a chance to use a hoist if I helped with an intercooler install for a Rex

post-101240-13746282263247_thumb.jpg

I must say it was easy compared to my install no cutting of re bar or chassis required.

He used the autobahn 88 kit. A decent kit for the money but the core was heavy as hell

post-101240-1374628291971_thumb.jpg

post-101240-13746283516327_thumb.jpg

My radiator flush was done at 80000km

So just had injectors replaced with cleaner better flowing stock items. Spark plugs replaced with iridiums. It took a fair while to remove everything carefully and do it. post-101240-13760080563215_thumb.jpg engine bay as of now.

New wiper modules. They are 35 a piece but they work really wellpost-101240-13760080394241_thumb.jpg new item on left

Sandwich plate for oil temp finally inpost-101240-13760080289188_thumb.jpg it's the red thing

post-101240-13760081324003_thumb.jpg

I'm following along too :thumbsup:

Just a word of advice; keep an eye on that oil sandwich plate for the first few days. They have a nasty tendency to develop leaks. Just keep an eye on it and sort out any issues if it gives any.

Yeah man. It's the second one I've been through. The first one was purchased from a reputable Japanese Aftermarket parts company here in Sydney. The sandwich plate I got from them didn't work out of the box. I never went back there because their customer service was abysmal. I was actually really disappointed in them because I heard good things. Anyway this new one has held up so I'm praying it works.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello all I have 2 r34 sedans , one turbo one na, only recently aquired the na 34.  Man what is with these things.... My turbo 34 started sounding like a super charger, it was screaming at anything above 4000rpm , I took the alternator apart and replaced the front bearing which is the only one I think you can access and it did not fix the issue so presumably the bearing in the rear of the alternator is gone. ( diagnosed it was the alternator by taking off the aux belts one by one to figure out which pulley or bearing it was )  My friend gave me one he had lying around, Installed it , it did not squeal for maybe 500kms and now its started to squeal again briefly on startup  Recently got an na r34 and I replaced the timing belt, water pump + all the auxillirary belts. Runs amazing but it suddenly developed the same squeaking problem but significantly worse, Ive had my neighbour come down screaming at me because it was waking her up everytime I moved the car. It takes a good 2 minutes before it quietens down.  Im yet to diagnose where its coming from but im fairly sure its coming from the alternator aswell. My question isnt about how to fix it but rather where can you get a new alternator for an rb25 neo??? Ive searched everywhere but I havent been able to find a direct fit oem type replacement thats not genuine. All the automotive stores sell an oex one - BXA035 - which I picked up for cheap through a friend with staff discount , got it home only to find the connector is completelty different.... As far as im aware bxa035 is for rb20/30's and after a bit of figuring out the bxa035 has an ev14 type connector, which is tiny compared to the rb25 connector. I actually had an ev14 connector lying around which I was considering just replacing the bigger plug with to get the alternator working but the bxa035 is rated for 70amp vs the rb25 alternators are 90amp ( or so ive been told ? ) That paired along with the fact im about to install an amp + sub in the back and I have the stock sized small battery Im not sure itll do the job unless anyone has another opinion?  I know and have seen all the websites selling the ls1 alternator conversion kit but I am not going down that route, nor do I have the money to. Hopefully I can figure out how to get 2 brand new alternators for both cars. I would buy second hand which there seems to be many of but considering how common this seems to be im sure If I installed a second hand one it would start squealing in no time  Or even better if anyone knows how to fix the issue directly with the alternator itself... Any input appreciated Thank you     Link for bxa035 connector picture
    • As above, replace as many as you can afford. If anything, due to old age.
    • Can confirm previous shop that built my motor had no fking clue about oil control and caused my motor to shit itself after two track days. Current shop, Birrong Automotive, has managed to build me a motor, not to mention, has also let me tune it myself and it has yet to blow up after 7 track days. Great oiling success, yashimash.
    • It definitely seems like you have no beef, with only digging up a 5 year old post, to comment on an inflammatory item with total insensitivity, and of which had nothing to do with the thread.  Yep, you definitely seem like a great person and your friends and family would be so proud to know of your lovely actions
    • Thanks buddy, so happy to be back! Managed to pickup a Unicorn R34 completely stock and clean. Looking forward to adding some goodies to it and posting one here. I'm shocked that so many forums stopped. If you could find my old profile - I'd love that if its possible. My old account was JET200GT. My email might need to be fixed too. To use this one. I think it was the same though..
×
×
  • Create New...