Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes before you all start i know there was no LX GTR but what if i made one but the GTR part was from a different car maker.

Now you're thinking what's this idiot on about, before you read on if you don't like to see torana's modified beyond the norm or skyline being cut

up, look away now.

So the idea is to take a LX hatch and a nissan R32 gtr skyline and mix them together. From the outside it will look like a LX hatch with flares

but underneath it will be the R32 AWD with a rb26/30. I've already run the idea past an engineer who has given the go ahead.

To start with i'm setting the running gear up in an old rusty shell before i start cutting up the hatch.

The R32 GTR shell i'm using for parts.

IMGP1622.jpg


Jig to relocate the rear suspension.

IMGP1654.jpg

Setting up the rear end.

IMGP1695.jpg
IMGP1694.jpg
Check (if you live in usa): Publix Weekly Ad, or Big W toy catalogue.
IMGP1680.jpg
IMGP1690.jpg

  • Like 1

Started fitting the gear box and trans tunnel, this is the bit that worries me because of the amount of floor that needs to be cut out.


You can see how much needs to be cut out.

IMGP1786.jpg

Fitting the gtr floor, it follows the torana floor fairly closely.

IMGP1799.jpg

IMGP1803.jpg

IMGP1804.jpg

Rear floor patched to allow the 50x50 angle for the rear subframe mount to sit against the floor and put the subfame in.

IMGP2062.jpg

Looks like i will be able to mount the coilovers on the original shocker mounts without cutting in the wheel arch.

IMGP2065.jpg

IMGP2066.jpg

Rear mounts welded and the rear coilovers sorted, using R32 BC racing coilovers with R33 lower mounts.


IMGP2071.jpg

IMGP2075.jpg

Pulled the motor and gearbox out of the skyline and took the head off and sat it on the rb30 in the test mule.

Left the twin turbos on but will be running a single.

IMGP2184_resize_zps9c49b75c.jpg

IMGP2178_resize_zpsac7f8404.jpg

Will be using a modified torana brake booster with commodore master cylinder.

IMGP2176_resize_zps03bcd11c.jpg

Making up the exhaust manifold, used the bracket i made to work out where i was mounting the turbo to make up a jig.

IMGP2224_resize_zps7f83fdbc.jpg

Started making the colector by cutting up 4 peices of 1.5" sch 40 pipe and welding 2 together.

IMGP2228_resize_zpsb0f4bee8.jpg

After they were welded together i cut the peak off and cut out the side so they merge to one point.

IMGP2230_resize_zps495cd82c.jpg

After that they are welded together and while still hot i hammered the sides flat to make more of a rectangular opening.

IMGP2232_resize_zps87ac6ba0.jpg

From there i started planning how i was running the pipes.

IMGP2233_resize_zpsb6c078d3.jpg

IMGP2251_resize_zps2eeff357.jpg

Manifold tacked up.

IMGP2256_resize_zpsb1f9c9ad.jpg

Braking out the runners to weld up each one.

IMGP2266_resize_zps8f346a01.jpg

Manifold welded up but going to change the angle of the turbo flange and need to work out where i'm pitting the wastegate.

IMGP2267_resize_zps9112dc00.jpg

IMGP2269_resize_zps3e02728b.jpg

IMGP2270_resize_zps4947c66f.jpg

IMGP2268_resize_zpsea5ed3b0.jpg

Edited by turbo76lx
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • IMG_8641.mov     She doesn’t sound the best but starts with out using any gas now. I just ran some injector cleaner through her. started roughly the first time after adding it but gave it the beans slowly upto 4k, Must have cleaned a few cobwebs out. another step in the right direction for the sub
    • Sadly I can confirm if you are actually seeking to drift, you will quite easily spin up one wheel. Even if you're going in a straight line. I am not entirely sure of the metrics/terminology here but there's only a certain amount that the helical will actually spin both wheels. I've seen it on video with my own car where two lines of smoke switch over to just one after you really get in to it. Unlike with a clutch diff where you can keep your foot planted until the car regains grip, in my experience with the helical you want to be utilizing traction control allowing LIMITED slip or lifting (partially) when you start to spin up both tyres with a Nissan helical. Which makes them pretty sub optimal for drifting duty. That said... this is probably a helical on numbers alone. Just put the Kazz in
    • Let's just fix the problem by f**king the rest of the gearbox.
    • Unlikely, as per Greg's post. This is not helical diff behaviour unless one wheel is up off the ground. Shimming what? You don't "shim" a mechanical LSD. Probably not in the sense that you have heard of people "shimming" a diff. And the process that Nissan f**kwits call "shimming" a diff involves super-preloading a VLSD cartridge against the side of the diff to create a friction/wear point (in a place that it wasn't supposed to have one) to make the sloppy, useless, viscous diff into a hybrid viscous/mech abortion. In case it isn't clear, I consider the process to be stupid. Nike.
    • How much does the shifter move when the car is in gear with the engine off? If it is more than about 1cm you need to replace your shifter bush. Your shifts will just get crunchier, not faster, with a short shifter unless you also rebuild the whole box
×
×
  • Create New...