Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys really keen on this kit, price is pretty good as well just wanted to get some more info on this. They say its a complete kit so would I be needing anything else and also how much would it cost roughly to install the kit? If this is gonna cost me 8k I will be happy to do it otherwise more than 8k will be pushing it so please feel free to give me opinions and what not... has anyone bought from rhd japan? And any reviews on this kit If any has it or knows about it

Aim is to have a little bit more of a kick and the supercharger will sound sick lol

http://www.rhdjapan.com/hks-gt-supercharger-complete-kit-gse21-grs184-z33-cpv35-64031

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426717-thinking-of-forced-induction/
Share on other sites

Generally I would say, if you plan to spend 8k double it just in case. By the time the kit is installed, tuned etc it will cost you a few thousand more, then there is the unreliable bottom end to to either build or just pray it holds together...

Why don't you look into dropping a VQ25det in there? :P

i know of a couple of guys running low-boost forced induction on VQ35s with no dramas for 60,000kms+ including multiple trackdays, not sure the bottom end is 'unreliable' scotty?

the HKS kit runs peak 7psi boost - sure it is more stress on the engine, i wouldnt expect 200,000kms+ of trouble-free running like a standard/light tune engine, but it should still be reasonable.

to the op: use the search function, theres a few supercharged V35s on SAU.

..of which mine is one :)

if youre serious, get a quote for the kit, then add a couple of grand for install, tuning, ancilliaries (VQ's run a bit hot as standard, let alone with forced induction)

ps there are two kits available, base and Pro kit. Pro kit requires you to get your own ecu, injectors, fuel pump etc etc..base kit comes with FconS i beleive, and 2 additional injectors to use with your existing standard ones..

If the bottom ends are so strong, why do they limit the boost to 7psi?

To the OP, pick a power level and we can recommend what you will need a little better. If you are happy keeping it under 250 or so kw, the stock VQ35 should hold up fine (as long as the tuner is good) Any more and you should probably look at a VQ25det, or building the engine imo if you want reliability.

hey guys thanks for input yea i was thinking ill be happy with around 270kw dont want to really build engine aye, a little bit of fun with a s/c nothing serious but thats not always the case we'll alwasy want more power right? lol but yea basically a straight bolt on kit no hassles for a bit more power and fun... hows this kit on rhd japan? http://www.rhdjapan.com/hks-gt-supercharger-complete-kit-gse21-grs184-z33-cpv35-64031 the price is what swayed me....

What Scott said is true.

They are not a "strong" motor. Plenty of cars fail. Some don't make it off the dyno. It takes a careful and understanding tuner, because they just won't take the ham fistedness of some tuners like a RB or SR motor will.

It is fine if that is what you want to do, but still I was never comfortable enough to take it on a track and hammer it all day long. I had the HKS single turbo kit on mine. I have also installed one of those SC kits on a Z.

If you want advice - don't get a kit with ECU included. Buy a HKS kit without engine management, and get uprev, bigger injectors, Walbro 255. With uprev, it doesn't tie you in to having it tuned only by an HKS dealer.

Also, don't expect to make massive power. On a realistic dyno I make just 200kw. I've seen the SC kit make about 215kw on the same dyno. Don't believe some of the figures coming out of the states, and even some of the other garages here. I find them over inflated.

At the end of the day - I took the kit off my car, returning it to NA so the Mrs drives it daily, and bought a 180SX to track. For the cost of the SC kit, installation, tune, etc you could do the same.

  • PN-Mad thanks for your opinion mate thats what i was saying to the missus... either the s/c cause its different or get another s15 or s14/180sx or motorbike as a getting to work transport lol ill weigh up the options if thats the power people were getting its just not worth it id leave it n/a and just work on making it look better i guess... just gee'd up cause took my mates 350z tt (aps kit) for a spin = massive smile haha

I never understand why people go down this route. Weak motor aside, they just don't make power for the money you have to spend. If you (not you specifically) want a Kw King you should just buy an RBDET(T) and be done with it.

That was half the reason I bought a V35 - so I wouldn't be tempted to do expensive engine mods anymore and might have a chance of keeping my license a bit longer. There is something about knowing there is no point racing every thing on the road. I just accept its not a rocketship and enjoy the car for what it is - a comfy GT cruiser.

Dont do it unless you have plenty of $$$ to spare...

i thought oh yeah, $3300 hks turbo kit on special from $8000 i can do that.

3300 kit

4000 engine forged parts

3000 engine build bill

12 months later of no car

car had issues, was told i need

$400 in sensors, nope not it

$2500 ecu, nope not it

$2500 clutch, nope not it

oh it was the cam the engine builder dropped and damaged

$1500 later

car runs but the guy that high flowed the tubro did it wrong

Now i can run past 2psi until i take out turbo and get it fixed... (prob another $900-1500 not inc labor)

Now labor i did alot myself so saved lots, transmission was in and out 3x and thats $800 at least in labor each time

Fitting tubro to engine and putting it in the car, another $2000 at least

Many auto electrician to figure out issues , $200 each time

NOT WORTH IT, yeah i will have fun once its done but if i had known this ^^^^ i would avoid..

What happened with the turbo?

You definitely had a bad run, sorry I wasn't local I could have helped you out...

Thanks Scotty, would have loved the help. move up to GC, better state anyway !!!

Well turbo not boosting past 2psi... did leak test of IC piping and thats fine, jacked car up and took off wastegate pipe, put block off plate on the other end and got someone in the car holding revs and could not feel any air coming out of the wastegate (external). Also forced air into the top of it to force it close just incase and still not past 2psi.

3037 was highflowed to fit a 3582 in. A spacer was used to allow for the longer turbine wheel. The tuner seems to think the guy that highflowed it got the "profile" wrong, so the air going into the turbo has to be such a huge amount to just turn the wheel... at 4500 it only just starts making 2psi...

How was the oil supply? Did you drop the drain and make sure it was flowing well? It would be unusual not to work out of the box. Hypergear right? Have you spoken to him?

Perhaps it's due to the T2 rear? I doubt it though...

Gold coast? Looks like you are copping that rain band hard at the moment. lol.

regarding expected power: HKS claim 30% increase in power over stock and 40% increase in torque. ie ~270kw up from 208kw standard, that is around 220-240kw@wheels depending on dyno..thats without opening up the engine.

i dont think the VQ series is any worse than any other N/A engine in terms of tolerance to forced induction, however i completely agree there are platforms/engines out there with higher potential for less outlay :)

Edited by szymonsta

I think you are comparing the non turbo VQ's with the stronger VQ30det/VQ25det. Nissan always run stronger internals in their turbo motors, and the VQ35 rods are lighter afaik to raise the rev limit. Perhaps do a little research on the subject. The HR rods are a little stronger apparently.

The figures you posted are approximates, and for a manual rwd car. It should be close if you can get some good fuel into it, like they run in Japan. Auto cars will lose around 30kw and awd will be lower again. My stock VQ25det would be running over 400kw if it was rwd and manual box. No extra outlay for me. :P

Wow. That's an epically bad run of luck/ dealing with people that don't have a clue.

Something seriously wrong with the turbo, I bet if you looked at the turbine, the tolerances would be horrible. Mine made full boost, 6psi, at 2200rpm loaded up.

And I disagree. Some NAs like the boost. I've seen RBs given an absolute flogging, and come back for more. Chevrolet gen3 motors are the same, make massive power stock internals. Same with Toyota v8s.

How was the oil supply? Did you drop the drain and make sure it was flowing well? It would be unusual not to work out of the box. Hypergear right? Have you spoken to him?

Perhaps it's due to the T2 rear? I doubt it though...

Gold coast? Looks like you are copping that rain band hard at the moment. lol.

Oil supply, how to i "drop the drain" ? Yes hypergear. He said check IC piping, wastegate which i did so now i have to pull turbo off the engine and i am not looking forward to doing that at all.. I either send it back to him or take it to mr turbo locally and get a billet wheel made up in either 3582 or resleeve the turbo and go back to 3037.. i dont know what to do...

How do i look at the "tolerances" ? when i got it back i could pull the shaft in and out a few mm..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is the other log file, if only we had exhaust manifold pressure - would understand what's going on a bit better   Can you take a screenshot of your wastegate setup in the Kebabtech?   Engine Functions --> Boost Control (looks like this):  
    • You just need a datalogger of some sort. A handheld oscilloscope could do it, because it will make the trace visible on screen, so you can look at the peak, or whatever you need to look at. And there are cheap USB voltage loggers available too. You could get a 2 channel one and press a button to feed voltage to the second channel at points that you want to check the sensor voltage, when you knew what the guage was saying, for example.
    • it's not the issue with making power, it's the issue with controlling boost, and this isn't the first time I've seen a 6Boost having issue with controlling boost down low.   The boost control here looks interesting.   Looking at your logs, looks like it's set to open loop boost control strategy (which is fine). We can see VCT being kept on till about 6600RPM (no issue with that). Ignition timing (I'm assuming this is E85, seems within reason too, nothing too low, causing hot EGTS and boost spiking). There's about 15 degrees of advance when your boost shoots up, however can't be this as the timing isn't single digits. I'm assuming there's no EMAP data, as I wasn't able to find it in the logs. We can see your tuner sets the WG DC to 0% after 4300RPM, trying to control boost.   My thoughts, what frequency is your wastegate set to?  AND why aren't you using both ports for better control?
    • While that sounds reasonable, this is definitely a boost control problem, but the real question is why are you having the boost control problem? Which is why I pondered the idea that there's a problem at ~4000rpm related to head flow. In that instance, you are not yet under boost control - it's still ramping up and the wastegate is yet to gain authority. So, I'm thinking that if the wastegate is not yet open enough to execute control, but the compressor has somehow managed ot make a lot of flow, and the intake side of the head doesn't flow as well as the exhaust side (more on that later), then presto, high MAP (read that as boost overshoot). I have a number of further thoughts. I use butterfly valves in industrial applications ALL THE TIME. They have a very non-linear flow curve. That is to say that there is a linear-ish region in the middle of their opening range, where a 1% change in opening will cause a reasonably similar change in flow rate, from one place to another. So, maybe between 30% open and 60% open, that 1% change in opening gives you a similar 2% change in flow. (That 2% is pulled out of my bum, and is 2% of the maximum flow capacity of the valve, not 2% of the flow that happens to be going through the valve at that moment). That means that at 30% open, a 1% change in opening will give you a larger relative flow increase (relative to the flow going through the valve right then) compared to the same increment in opening giving you the same increment in flow in outright flow units. But at 60% opening, that extra 2% of max flow is relatively less than 1/2 the increase at 30% opening. Does that make sense? It doesn't matter if it doesn't because it's not the main point anyway. Below and above the linear-ish range in the middle, the opening-flow curve becomes quite...curved. Here's a typical butterfy valve flow curve. Note that there is a very low slope at the bottom end, quite steep linear-ish slope in the middle, then it rolls off to a low slope at the top. This curve shows the "gain" that you get from a butterfly valve as a function of opening%. Note the massive spike in the curve at 30%. That's the point I was making above that could be hard to understand. So here's the point I'm trying to make. I don't know if a butterfly valve is actually a good candiate for a wastegate. A poppet valve of some sort has a very linear flow curve as a function of opening %. It can't be anyelse but linear. It moves linearly and the flow area increases linearly with opening %. I can't find a useful enough CV curve for a poppet valve that you could compare against the one I showed for the butterfly, but you can pretty much imagine that it will not have that lazy, slow increase in flow as it comes off the seat. It will start flowing straight away and increase flow very noticeably with every increase in opening%. So, in your application, you're coming up onto boost, the wastegate is closed. Boost ramps up quite quickly, because that's really what we want, and all of a sudden it is approaching target boost and the thing needs to open. So it starts opening, and ... bugger all flow. And it opens some more, and bugger all more flow. And all the while time is passing, boost is overshooting further, and then finally the WG opens to the point where the curve starts to slope upwards and it gains authority amd the overshoot is brought under control and goes away, but now the bloody thing is too open and it has to go back the other way and that's hy you get that bathtub curve in your boost plot. My position here is that the straight gate is perhaps not teh good idea it looks like. It might work fine in some cases, and it might struggle in others. Now, back to the head flow. I worry that the pissy little NA Neo inlet ports, coupled with the not-very-aggressive Neo turbo cam, mean that the inlet side is simply not matched to the slightly ported exhaust side coupled with somewhat longer duration cam. And that is not even beginning to address the possibility that the overlap/relative timing of those two mismatched cams might make that all the worse at around 4000rpm, and not be quite so bad at high rpm. I would be dropping in at least a 260 cam in the inlet, if not larger, see what happens. I'd also be thinking very hard about pulling the straight gate off, banging a normal gate on there and letting it vent to the wild, just as an experiment.
    • Not a problem at all Lithium, I appreciate your help regardless. I've pulled a small part of a log where the target pressure was 28psi and it spiked to 36.4psi. I've only just begun using Data Log Viewer so if I'm sending this in the wrong format let me know.
×
×
  • Create New...