Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone. Just after some feedback on this dealer, I am looking to import a r33 gtr through these guys. I have already done a sau search and google search but there isnt any recent reviews/feedback? What happens if you import a car and it ends up being a bucket? Any other information would be good. I have heard there are a few people on here who import cars, I am just alittle wary on handing my dorras over to some who could run off with the money, not to say someone with a business can't do that.

Are you looking to Import from Japan? Or purchase a car that is actually on Australian soil through the dealership.

stateroads site above will only help if the car is physically here in Aus..

Yep, as r32-25t stated. Once you pay for the car in Japan, it's yours. You can't just "exchange" or "return" the car if it's not to your liking... It's not retail..

What you can do, is have a reputable importer have their Japanese ground staff conduct an inspection of the car pre auction and then decide if you want to bid on the car.

Ahh I c.. from what old mate told me on thr phone, he was going to find the car for me. If I am happy with what they find, I can put a holding deposite on it and they import it and then I re-inspect it when it arrives and if I'm not happy with it no deal. BUT you have me worried, I would rather have the car inspected before it comes over by people who no what there doing..

From the sounds of what you have said, Nagoya wants semi ownership of the car giving you the option to purchase it once it lands.

I'd take a guess and say if you didn't like the car, they will prob keep the holding deposit and then sell the car in their yard to the public.

Do you have to sign a contract for the holding deposit? I'd be reading that thoroughly to see if there were any 'non-refund' clauses if you choose not to go ahead with the purchase.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Some of them keep working fine. 9 out of 10 of them end up causing an absolute misery bleeding the system and get thrown on the workshop floor in a tantrum and never thought about again because they were never really needed and just added crap to the car that we could have done without. Same-same with HICAS, A-LSD, and various other stupidities that over eager 10x engineers thought we had to have.
    • Not required but appreciated. Super Coppermix Twin even the non-competition model feels like the pedal is noticeably heavier than stock which was pretty well judged IMO. I'll be swapping in the Nismo operating cylinder soon to see how that feels.  Personally I haven't felt anything that justifies replacing the damping loop, at least compared to more modern stuff where the clutch delay valve is actually quite noticeable.
    • He made that comment in my thread - In my case the vents ARE to lower engine heat, when the car is not moving, which is the only scenario I have heat problems with the aircon on, sitting in traffic, on 40C+ days. I can't imagine a scenario that this NC needs any at this point in time. I do not know if it will actually make my cooling when the car is MOVING worse, and I sincerely hope that won't be the case. If it does, well, um, f**k.
    • Nice, thanks. Thats why I was asking, there'd been a fair bit of discussion in the E90 world about vents and where it makes sense to put one (ie, over the filters is not great as that is inline or slightly behind the struts and in higher pressure area). I struggle with air flow and pressures. It sill weirds me out that a radiator in the boot can work. 
    • Neither really Vents, when located in the right place, will lower the engine bay "pressure", as air has a path to escape, thus lowering the engine bay pressure, thus.....improving the efficiency on the coolant stack (read: IC, condenser, radiator) This is why the Blits vented bonnet on my 33 worked so well, the vent was in the front 1/3 of the bonnet, which put it right after the radiator  If the vents are to far back toward the windscreen, which is a high pressure zone, it can actually force air into the engine bay, causing higher pressure and effectively loosing efficiency on the cooling stack, like the fab of raising the rear of the bonnet, which does allow heat to escape, but only when the car isn't moving  There's heaps of cool "fluid dynamics" info out there, but, I'll attach a video of a 'Merican joint that focuses on "Miatas" as I found it when looking into vents for mine, they explain it way better than me  
×
×
  • Create New...