Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm fairly sure that I'm in need of a rear strut bar to stop some back end body flex. The problem occurs going up corners (say drive ways, entrances to shops etc) the noise mainly comes from rear passenger side.

The noise sounds like metal twisting followed by a "ping" sound. I've had a look at suspension and it seems fine (no cracks or dings that I can see in the strut, no loose nuts)

I stuck my head under the car and there was no clear evidence of something being broken or loose.

so I'm thinking a rear strut brace might be in order, am I thinking right or not?

Cheers in advance for any input.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426723-body-flex-rear-strut-needed/
Share on other sites

I think you either have a suspension issue, or a really serious issue that a strut brace isnt going to fix

I dont have a rear strut brace and even when I have one of the rear wheels off the ground I dont hear any flexing noises, back end feels rigid and nice. It's long been debated that the rear strut brace is fairly useless because there is support behind the seat and under the parcel shelf so there is no gap in between the 2 sides of the car like there is at the front. The front strut braces do make a difference. Rear I can't say they dont because I dont have one, but plenty of others will tell you this

have you got a worn bush or some other issue in the back? Maybe pull all your carpet out and have a look around in the boot if you think there is really some flex there

The rear strut brace attaches to the strut towers via 2x feeble stamped steel brackets. The amount of flex in the rear strut brace mounting brackets would exceed the amount of flex the rear strut towers ever see during use, making it only marginally effective. I would check subframe mounting hardware/bushes are all tight/in good condition. Also check strut top mounts, HICAS tie rod ends and mounting points etc.

Rear suspension arms on skylines are mounted to a rigid subframe and resist all the lateral force. Strut braces mount to the body of the car, not the subframe, and therefore do bugger all. Front is different as the upper arm mounts onto the body.

Ask for a recommended suspension shop in your state subforum and let them check it out.

I also have BC BR coilovers, and i think i have the exact same noise coming from the rear somewhere. Infact its been like that for about 1.5 years. Will check my coilovers too, obviously there should be zero play or movement in the springs?

Haha wow ive done a good job on them then. Will have to get some pics. I think these are what i need to get? http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com.au/viewitem?itemId=180829991026 and http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com.au/viewitem?itemId=120953333963

I get an odd loud click kinda noise from the back only when its wet. Its more of a loud click then a bang but it could probably be described as either

Thought it was my diff mounts which are all new polyurethene bushes but thinking now maybe it might be the strut tops on my BC BR coilovers. Not sure why it only does it when its wet but

My noise isn't constant, mainly either when reversing out of driveway rear passenger wheel is off the driveway first

It'll go turning right around a roundabout, then make the noise when exiting the roundabout

And also turning right up a hill - entrance to car park at train station of a morning

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just one more post to show the final result and the original "janky" solution for a laugh. Everything feels really tight and no wobbling at all, very pleased 🙂
    • After drying a few days, time to put her back together 
    • The hot exhaust light will come on not from just the cat being blocked, but it's just a temp sensor, and it's designed to warn you to not do things like park in long grass.   If you've been pushing the motor a bit, it can cause the light to come on.   Second if the cat is rattling, I'd suspect it's not blocked, but instead falling apart inside.   The easiest "fix" until you can get a cat put back in, is to unbolt your one, bash the rest of the insides out, and then bolt it back in.   For a daily driver/street car, I am in agreeance of put a cat in the car. If it were race car I wouldn't care if it were removed.
    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
×
×
  • Create New...