Jump to content
SAU Community

Lost A Seal When Rebuilding R33 Gtst Calipers :(

S3RK
 Share

Recommended Posts

S3RK Community Regular

S3RK

Posted
Posted

Hi guys/girls,

a few weeks back my front-right caliper started leaking fluid from the top outer piston, so obviously time for a rebuild...

Got my kit today and first time ever opening up calipers, followed a rough guide and managed to pop all the pistons out using an air compressor, replaced all the seals, but the only seals the rebuild kit didn't come with are the 2 small ones ( 8mm wide, 6mm hole, 3mm thick approx. ) I managed to have lost one when popping the pistons out. It is one of the the seals (or O-ring) that sits between the caliper split, where the fluid passage is, I went to supercheap/autobarn/autoone/bursons, and none of them supplied or could get them, the closest thing I could find was in an O-Ring assortment which is the exact same size and fit, but it is round rather than flat edged (or square O-Ring if you will).

I've fitted it on now but I'm not entirely convinced it will work as I'm still yet to bleed the system and actually test it out, but for peace of mind sakes I'd still like to get some and fit it. Does anyone know the exact measurement and/or where I could get some? I would really appreciate if you could help me out! :)

Thanks in advanced!

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

I would not even think about using that caliper without the correct o-ring in place.

Sadly none of the replacement sumitomo seal kits I've ever seen contain that particular o-ring.

S3RK Community Regular

S3RK

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It's ur brakes dude go buy another kit and fix it right $50 For seals is cheaper than losing ur brakes

As #@Daleo said, that specific O-Ring is NOT included in any of the kits as Sumitomo strongly advises you don't split the calipers. I've found a website http://www.mcmaster.com that definitely has the O-Ring I'm looking for (going by other forum posts, unfortunately they don't link the specific one or mention the measurements), so now I'm just looking for the measurements and I'll order them in ASAP.

If I can't find the measurements or no one knows, I'll measure them myself tomorrow night.

Thanks though guys, really appreciate it!

Greekos Proficient

Greekos

Posted
Posted

i have split calipers in the past, make sure you dont damage the machine surfaces and torque them up right and they should be fine, get the right seals and it should be good and just makes sure u test the brakes well!! what brand of seals do you guys use, Nissan?? the seal kit i got last year seemed like the dust seals were less of a quality than the factory ones i pulled off.

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

cool, where did you get them from??

They were just a lucky Ebay find; the guy was using a GT-t front cut to re-power an R31; and had no use for the brakes.

I think they'd done very little work. You can buy OEM seal kits; so they should be fine; they just don't contain the sandwich O-ring.

If you took a sample to an industrial Hydraulics Specialist (not Pirtek) that does work with large valve banks and the like; they might be able to match it up.

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

I guess you won't really know until it happens. And at that point it may be too late. :/

Did you soak the O-ring overnight in brake fluid prior to installation; to ensure it wouldn't swell/degrade?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      Question about BoV on RB25DET NEO

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
    • Kapr
      Question about BoV on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Low oil pressure after WOT

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      That dirty voltage drop is the culprit I suspect 
    • pogman
      Low oil pressure after WOT

      By pogman · Posted

      i cant get them all in 1 screenshot unfortunately as i just dont know how to move things around tbh, but they are all from the same log and the line crosses at the same point for all of them
    • MBS206
      The Ls1 R33 Of Fury

      By MBS206 · Posted

      It's about time I start work on my sun tan. So I knocked up a few parts that will all combine together to become my new power steering reservoir. Now just to produce an abundance of UV and IR rays while melting a heap of bits of alu to become one... Well, that's after I put one more hole in it for the return line to plumb to. It likely won't be this weekend, as Sunday I'm meant to be in doing some last minute stuff to the AMG race car, and the weekend after will be filled with non my Skyline stuff, followed by Bathurst 6 hour. So I don't expect to get to melt metal for at least 3 weeks.   I also managed to stuff up and start cutting the hole for the res to pump pipe on the wrong side of the line... It means instead of the lines being nice and tight against the inner guard, they'll be out off the guard.    The size of it means I should end up with about 1.8L of power steering fluid, and still have space for another half a litre before it reaches the overflow/breather. This is wayyyyyyy more capacity than factory, which should help keep Powersteer oil temps lower, and the design hopefully allows it to prevent any aerated oil being able to makes its way down to the bottom as it'll have a couple of baffles and some hopeful trickery to force air bubbles away from the bottom.
×
×
  • Create New...