Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have just recently purchased my first GT-R (an R32) and was wanting to know if the way the front torque gauge is behaving is normal, abnormal, or whether the gauge is just abit dicky (like many a skyline gauge)

So with normal driving my gauge sits anywhere from 0-10%, like i'm driving on the freeway at 100km/h i look down and the gauge is sitting on 10 (or 8 or whatever) and it seems to stay at that position until i completely release the throttle which (after a second) causes the gauge to drop back to zero.

yesterday i tested the 4wd (as i didn't actually know whether it was working) so on a wet road i did a couple of moderate launches, gauge shot up to somewhere around the 40 mark and i got bugger all wheelspin so i presume it is working. also experimented with the 4wd controller which definately was working as on zero the rear was more twitchy and on around 7 it felt really good and could really put the power down on corner exit

So does all this sound fairly normal? i was expecting gauge to pretty much read zero in all normal driving conditions and only show anything when giving it some stick.

Thanks

This is a correct assumption -> "gauge to pretty much read zero in all normal driving conditions and only show anything when giving it some stick"

Unless you have the 4WD controller turned on/dialled up.

100kmph on the freeway should not read 10 on the torque dial. (In my experience anyway)

Your G sensor is receiving a signal which is erroneous.

If the road you're driving on is bumpy then the car will send more torque to the front wheels. On my car, if I'm driving down a shit road under power, the front wheels get's to about 10 and hangs around there for 5 seconds or so once the road gets smooth.

thanks for the helpfull replies. I should have noted that the gauge observation is when i have the 4wd controller turned to 0.

seems like the 24 year old g-sensor might be playing up.

The workings of ATTESSA has been done to death. A search of these forums should get you an answer to your question.

I'm sure attesa has been done to death but i couldn't find anything helpfull (the search function is pretty hopeless on this site) i used to have much better results just using google with skylinesaustralia (followed by what i wanted to search for) but google has changed and no longer gives the 'more results from skylinesaustralia.com' thing to click on.

I just did a Google search for "torque gauge attessa". Top of the list - this thread. But also there was a link to another thread on here, and a link to the wikipedia page for attessa, which describes how attessa works.

Both these items should lead you to the conclusion that a constant reading on the torque gauge is generally caused by the rear tyres being smaller diameter than the fronts, indicating a "slip" condition to the ATTESSA computer.

This is a correct assumption -> "gauge to pretty much read zero in all normal driving conditions and only show anything when giving it some stick"

Unless you have the 4WD controller turned on/dialled up.

Exactly this.

I enjoyed that article....thanks...

been watching a few r32 acceleration videos on youtube and it seems as though 10% on the gauge is normal under full acceleration so at least i know that's normal, it's just the reading i'm getting when cruising at 100km/h thats strange

the rims and tyres i have on there are all identical with similar wear, i'm going to try put a few psi more into the rears and see if that makes a difference,

thanks everyone.

  • 3 years later...

Yeah i calibrated the G-sensor as per this thread and it sorted it out. Doesn't look like the picture is working anymore, I thought i had it saved somewhere but i can't seem to find it.

 

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You know, that is exactly the thing that I was thinking a coupe of hours ago. I even had a plan for a meme, involving one big one, another big one, and the Old El Paso girl saying "¿por que no los dos?"
    • NoS, 2 of the big ones.
    • Oh, that's grim. Something bad has been happening there.
    • Put an endoscope down the hole and saw this. Not quite all around the bore but a good 60% at least. Chin to the chest and towards further disappointments I guess.
    • 2 does "sort of" applies, maybe......but looking at what parts would be needed for the swap to get engineered, registered, and insured, and basically that's everything under the car, the modifications the make it legal would be problematic and horrendously expensive, all for a street car that just cruises around and hits a few twisty roads on the weekends Also, from looking at the NSW rules and Regs, with all modifications that is required just to make the car safe and not twist itself to pieces, and then actually get registered for street use, may still be impossible nowadays As for 1, when you add in a fresh engine, fresh transmission, rear cradle and diff, tailshaft, suspension, brakes, cooling, and all the other fabrication required, your probably looking at up to $100k to do it right, all for a 20 year old MX5 that is over engineered and you would never be able to actually use the power it has on the street, much like your beastie, which I love, but you actually track that thing and can use all of its powers in anger, in a safe environment  Hell, the old Bogan Cruise Ship had more power than I could use on the street, and in hindsight, I went a bit silly on that thing, it didn't really need the 500hp it had for what I actually used the car for, it was fun, but basically unusable on the street if you value your licence  As for cams, yeah, I'll probably book it in for them to get installed and tuned soonish, like next month after MX5 Mania are back at work....... and yes, I've already sent a email to bin the turbo quote and quote instead to install cams and a new Fluidampr balancer that will suit the 2.5 better than the OEM 2.0 balancer that is swapped over for the 2.5 install, as the balancer needs to get pulled to time the cams it's a while your in there sort of thing I did think a bit about flex fuel for a laugh, but being na, and no where really around locally anymore to get E85, I've binned that idea, so no sweet sweet corn smells are set for the car I wish E85 was more of a standard fuel, it's better for the environment, better for tuning, plus that sweet sweet smell we all love As for fitting in the family, that's not needed, as everyone in the family already owns a car that can seat 5 humans comfortably enough, the MX5 is "my toy" As for buying a car that is already built, nah, I would rather pick and choose my parts, I enjoy the process, and in the big picture, the additional cost is well worth the enjoyment, and the occasional frustration, I get out of doing it, albeit with other people spinning the spanners, and me, just paying the invoice 🤣
×
×
  • Create New...