Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have just recently purchased my first GT-R (an R32) and was wanting to know if the way the front torque gauge is behaving is normal, abnormal, or whether the gauge is just abit dicky (like many a skyline gauge)

So with normal driving my gauge sits anywhere from 0-10%, like i'm driving on the freeway at 100km/h i look down and the gauge is sitting on 10 (or 8 or whatever) and it seems to stay at that position until i completely release the throttle which (after a second) causes the gauge to drop back to zero.

yesterday i tested the 4wd (as i didn't actually know whether it was working) so on a wet road i did a couple of moderate launches, gauge shot up to somewhere around the 40 mark and i got bugger all wheelspin so i presume it is working. also experimented with the 4wd controller which definately was working as on zero the rear was more twitchy and on around 7 it felt really good and could really put the power down on corner exit

So does all this sound fairly normal? i was expecting gauge to pretty much read zero in all normal driving conditions and only show anything when giving it some stick.

Thanks

This is a correct assumption -> "gauge to pretty much read zero in all normal driving conditions and only show anything when giving it some stick"

Unless you have the 4WD controller turned on/dialled up.

100kmph on the freeway should not read 10 on the torque dial. (In my experience anyway)

Your G sensor is receiving a signal which is erroneous.

If the road you're driving on is bumpy then the car will send more torque to the front wheels. On my car, if I'm driving down a shit road under power, the front wheels get's to about 10 and hangs around there for 5 seconds or so once the road gets smooth.

thanks for the helpfull replies. I should have noted that the gauge observation is when i have the 4wd controller turned to 0.

seems like the 24 year old g-sensor might be playing up.

The workings of ATTESSA has been done to death. A search of these forums should get you an answer to your question.

I'm sure attesa has been done to death but i couldn't find anything helpfull (the search function is pretty hopeless on this site) i used to have much better results just using google with skylinesaustralia (followed by what i wanted to search for) but google has changed and no longer gives the 'more results from skylinesaustralia.com' thing to click on.

I just did a Google search for "torque gauge attessa". Top of the list - this thread. But also there was a link to another thread on here, and a link to the wikipedia page for attessa, which describes how attessa works.

Both these items should lead you to the conclusion that a constant reading on the torque gauge is generally caused by the rear tyres being smaller diameter than the fronts, indicating a "slip" condition to the ATTESSA computer.

This is a correct assumption -> "gauge to pretty much read zero in all normal driving conditions and only show anything when giving it some stick"

Unless you have the 4WD controller turned on/dialled up.

Exactly this.

I enjoyed that article....thanks...

been watching a few r32 acceleration videos on youtube and it seems as though 10% on the gauge is normal under full acceleration so at least i know that's normal, it's just the reading i'm getting when cruising at 100km/h thats strange

the rims and tyres i have on there are all identical with similar wear, i'm going to try put a few psi more into the rears and see if that makes a difference,

thanks everyone.

  • 3 years later...

Yeah i calibrated the G-sensor as per this thread and it sorted it out. Doesn't look like the picture is working anymore, I thought i had it saved somewhere but i can't seem to find it.

 

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Looking at the photos, you could easily just drop this pipe and dump into atmosphere  Just 1 or 2 quick hits for data acquisition - if have a heat shield material and/or sheet metal, maybe just use wire/metal cable ties and attach it in a way to deflect heat from melting nearby wires.  
    • 2025 PRP GTR Festival - A Massive Thank You from SAU NSW! On behalf of SAU NSW, I want to extend a huge thank you to our incredible committee for all the hard work and dedication behind the scenes. You are the engine that keeps this club running smoothly! (hopefully an RB lol馃槅) To all our amazing volunteers who helped make the GTR Festival Sydney such a success, thank you for giving your time, energy and sacrificing your weekend sleep-ins. Your efforts did not go unnoticed and were absolutely appreciated by everyone. We also want to give a big shoutout to the workshops, trade stalls, and the awesome VIP's we connected with over the weekend. Your support means the world to us, and we鈥檙e so proud to be part of such a passionate automotive scene. We are looking forward to collaborating with you at our future events.  SAU NSW had our marquee up for two full days at GTR Festival, packed with merchandise, a sizzling members BBQ, and a chance to chat with the committee, sign up, and check out some hot Skylines on display from our members. It was incredible seeing so many smiles and genuine conversations, that's what we're all about! SAU NSW is more than just a car club... we鈥檙e building a community where you can make friends, share stories, and talk about anything RB related or not. 馃摳 Please post any cool pics you took at the GTR Festival in this thread! 馃摳 To our current members, thank you for your ongoing loyalty, and to all our new members... welcome to the family! We鈥檙e beyond excited to have you on board! Please ensure you are involved as much as possible within the club, and make the most of our exciting upcoming events. Here鈥檚 to more future events, thrilling drives, chill meets and good feeds! Let鈥檚 keep building something special. 馃挭馃殫馃挩 Matt Zoumpoulis, President SAU NSW
    • Yes, well, keep in mind that the air is intake air, which equal boost + possible oil. If there is a fine deposition of oil/scunge that then gets hot and carbonises, it could look just like that. Probably shouldn't be leaking. Might just be normal for that product. Hard to know if it is relevant.
    • Wrapped up putting the motor back in today. I have a stainless flex turbo drain pipe like you see on cummins and that funny enough PRP started selling. I generally prefer these but sadly they come with a finite amount of times they can be bent before they snap. Took well over a week for a replacement to arrive.  I was able to prime the pump but I will more then likely wait until next friday to take it on its madden voyage. I also installed the nozzles for my direct port WMI setup but plugged the nozzle holders for now. I'll tube it with Swagelok SS tubing and fittings next chance I get. No rush, i'll be breaking it for a week or two anyways. 
    • I could definitely do some logs without the VCT enabled for sure. I believe we tried it on the dyno and it still spiked but wouldn't hurt to try again and have the logs    I might be able to use some metal cable ties and hold the gate open entirely, I'd need to see about that one.   What do we think about these marks on the cap of the actuator? This is where the two parts push together where the diaphragm spring is. To me they look like air has been sleeping past?? Specifically talking about those black stains above the lower rim/lip. They can be rubbed away as if it's just an exhaust stain.  
  • Create New...