Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

So I have a 93 models gtst and have decided to replace bushes etc as being 20years old they would be thrashed out. I would love to do this myself at home but not having a press or access to one makes it hard for me to part with all the labour costs involved. Obviously I would need to pay for alignment.

Was thinking I could however buy new parts ie front upper and lower control arms, a-arms, rear upper and lower links etc and fit them all myself without the need for buying new bushes, the need of a press as well as not paying labour. Nismo parts I can get from RHD.

I would not know if my current parts are bent in anyway(im the only owner the car has had since japan) but the bushes are pretty much shot. How would you know if your arms etc are bent actually??

Your thoughts on buying nismo parts and replacing myself, or pay someone to fit new bushes to old parts.

Cheers

Mick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426868-suspension-part-replacement/
Share on other sites

The likelihood of them being bent is pretty small and even if they are Nissan arms are cheap as chips to buy second hand. So I wouldnt factor that in. Easiest way to tell is to look at them.

If you want to go DIY I would remove the arms etc and then take them somewhere and pay them to press the bushes out. You can install the new bushes and refit the arms etc yourself. Then just get it checked over and aligned. Will be massively cheaper than the Nismo option.

yes as above said, take the arms out bring them to mechanic they can press bushes out and even put them back in, will be minimal cost! otherwise just buy brand new nismo/aftermarket arms if available...but obviously that will cost more than just replacing bushes alone.

So an update to my situation, took the car to wholesale suspension at Penrith, and as I thought almost all my bushes are cactus.....I was surprised to see how much movement there actually was in certain links with my shit bushes......definitely didn't feel too bad driving around but it probably was the cause of 54week old tein super streets slightly leaking(3 corners) and my tyres wearing out uneven though.

So all new bushes are being installed, where I can adjustable bushes will be fitted. Just have to wait and see if my teins will be repaired under warranty (stupid of me to fit them knowing that I had a problem last year with my old g4 coils all leaking....should of have it checked out by a pro last year before fitting the teins). Hopefully they will repair them under warranty and I can get some adjustable sway bars fitted.

The guys down there have been great, though I don't have the car back yet I will definitely recommend them to anyone who asks. Ive noticed wholesale suspension being mentioned on the forums a bit and wondering if they do a sau discount (if they do will it only apply to paying members??)

So an update to my situation, took the car to wholesale suspension at Penrith, and as I thought almost all my bushes are cactus.....I was surprised to see how much movement there actually was in certain links with my shit bushes......definitely didn't feel too bad driving around but it probably was the cause of 54week old tein super streets slightly leaking(3 corners) and my tyres wearing out uneven though.

So all new bushes are being installed, where I can adjustable bushes will be fitted. Just have to wait and see if my teins will be repaired under warranty (stupid of me to fit them knowing that I had a problem last year with my old g4 coils all leaking....should of have it checked out by a pro last year before fitting the teins). Hopefully they will repair them under warranty and I can get some adjustable sway bars fitted.

The guys down there have been great, though I don't have the car back yet I will definitely recommend them to anyone who asks. Ive noticed wholesale suspension being mentioned on the forums a bit and wondering if they do a sau discount (if they do will it only apply to paying members??)

How did you go with this

Much improvement

And what was the cost around?

Cheers

ok so an update....

car was due to be picked up this arvo.........my teins were repaired under warranty so opted for whiteline adj swaybars also.........however I just received a phonecall stating a problem with the new front swaybar......there is only around 3mm clearance between itself and the sump(so ive been told). Wholesale suspension have told me that it sits too close for there liking so they are going to try a gtr swaybar instead.

Has anyone else noticed minimal clearance between there swaybar and the sump?? I should mention that I have an rb25 det engine, im not sure if this engine is taller than a 20, but having said that, the 32 did come out with a rb25de, so we both don't understand why there is so little clearance. Any other thoughts??

cheers guys

How did you go with this

Much improvement

And what was the cost around?

Cheers

as above mate, don't have car back yet.......meant to be around the 3k mark all up......as soon as wholesale sort out the front swaybar and I pick it up ill let you know on the improvement(I am guessing it will be a completely different drive however)

GTR bar won't fit.

I have 25DET Neo in R32 and Whiteline 24mm bar in front. No problem with bar being anywhere near the sump.

Im guessing he should have been told that by whiteline, however they are sending a grt bar to them to trial, I guess because its a 22mm bar instead of 24mm. how much clearance do you have??

last time I checked the engine still seemed stirdy in its place, but could it be engine mounts. I mean if they are collapsed a bit, this would reduce the clearance right?

GTR anti-roll bar won't fit at all. See my post above yours.

spose they figure that out themselves. any other thoughts as to why it wouldn't fit??

sorry I have not seen the car since it went to the suspension place so I cant actually see for myself the problem. only been told over the phone.

ok, I finally got the car back. only had the chance to drive it home penrith to campbelltown along northern road and all I have to say so far is amazing. no squeaks, creaks, knocks, clunks or anything anymore. steering is massively improved, will be taking it out later on this evening for a bit more spirited driving so ill have more of an evaluation later on the handling side of things.

big thanks must go to wholesale suspension at Penrith, in particular matt, chris and dean. id highly recommend these guys to anyone.

out of curiosity, what do you guys have your swaybars set at?....ie hard or soft. I had mine set as soft for the timebeing.

Awesome!! Money definitely well spent.

The car feels so much more balanced through turns, feels as though the body remains "flatter" through accelerated turning. Body roll has been significantly reduced. Turn in response has improved immensely, to the point where I feel as though I'm learning to turn the vehicle again on the same roads.

Previous to the upgrades I would turn in, car would turn in slowly and heavily, body roll in opposite direction, then ease the wheel back to straight.....Now, I'm turning into the corner, waiting for body roll, waiting, waiting, shit I have to adjust steering input or ill hit the inside corner, then ease the wheel back to straight. On corner exits I've noticed that I'm having to release the steering wheel earlier too - the car just keeps on turning in.

The steering of the car feels easier and lighter, like I'm not fighting the steering wheel anymore.

I still have to play with the shock adjustments to get the feel I would like, there is no easy way to do this apart from set them, drive around for a couple of weeks then readjust, will take some time but I'm in no rush really. Also, have to play with the sway bar settings to see what I like. As stated earlier, I had them installed on soft settings front and rear, seems as though most have the front set to hard so I'll have to try that in the next couple of weeks also.

I don't have squeaks, creaks, knocks, thuds when driving/turning, turning in and out of driveways anymore. One thing I have noticed however is a light clunking noise when on and off throttle which I'm assuming is the diff - backlash?? from what I've read on here, so the next task on my list is to diagnose and remedy that.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I suppose that's true. Barring almost any situation, I'll never sell so what the market does is kind of irrelevant to me. It's possible I'd make most of my money back. That spreadsheet I mentioned? Maybe I could make back more than what the car's total costs thus far are, but the parts and all that is possibly a different story... Thanks for reading. It was certainly a good moment and just makes the ties to the car that much stronger. It's exciting that the option will be there to bring it over, however I have some plans with a shop that may end up keeping the car there longer, not sure. Coupled with the fact I want to move there and haven't solidified any path yet. So in a way, it feels like I'm in a limbo state that is uncertain; time will tell.
    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
    • The only high-power RB I've personally seen go pop after running for all of an hour on a dyno was built by B2R, while being remotely tuned by B2R. The only wastegates I've ever had leak like a sieve, return, still leak, return and get shipped back the wrong ones were from Turbosmart. The only final drive that I've ever purchased that were unusable, twice... were from Speedtek. The only seat mounts that I've ever purchased that placed the seats in the door frame were from Crank Motorsport. The only poorly designed parts that I had the manufacturer confirm should have been designed as per what I mentioned were from GKTech. The only ECU I've had firmware updates consistently break things are Haltech. The only catch can I've purchased that didn't fit in its advertised spot was from ATP. So forth and so on... Moral of the story, doesn't matter where it's from. Do your research beforehand and stick with products and companies you've trusted in the past.    @joshuaho96 If you want it done right, do it yourself.
    • Something coarse-ish. 180 is good.
×
×
  • Create New...