Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This was a response to a couple of questions one of the club members sent me a while back :-)

First, the Martini. Be warned, if you are not a big drinker a Martini is a BAD starting place for real cocktails. They are pure alcohol with NOTHING to cut the flavour except a little melted ice. Great if you love that sort of thing but it can take some getting used to.

Doing it right it should be two shots of gin, one shot of dry vermouth and garnished with two unstuffed green olives. You STIR a martini - James Bond is an idiot. Get a quality Gin, Bombay Sapphire as a minimum, Tanqueray is better, to make it. Don't go above these in price as Gin is an acquired taste and you may not like it. Quality Vermouth is VERY hard to come by so Cinzano is fine (and is dirt cheap.) Chill your serving glass down with ice in it (or put it in the freezer for a short time.) While it is chilling add the two shots of gin and shot of vermouth into a large glass (we use 28 oz glasses called Boston Glasses in bars) and top with ice. You add ice to the spirits, not spirits to the ice - prevents excessive melting. Use a thin spoon/knife/skewer/whatever and slide it down the side of the glass and use it to stir/twirl the ice around in the glass. The idea is to get all the ice moving in a smooth, circular motion -

is a good example. Stir until the outside of the glass gets nice and frosty and condensation starts to form. Empty your serving glass of ice/melted water and strain the martini into it, there should be no ice in the serving glass. Stick 2 olives on a long toothpick and plop them into the martini. And there you have it

There are a thousand different variations on this method but that is the traditional method. Alter quantities, garnish and stir time to suit taste (more stirring = colder and more watered down, great for inexperienced drinkers.) Personally I drink mine a bit more like Winston Churchill, I add extra gin and raise my glass in a toast to my dusty bottle of unused vermouth, but it's each to their own. Anything with a fruit name (e.g. Appletini) is in no way related to a martini and just had an unimaginative bartender who created it and couldn't think of a better name.

Then we get on to Vodka Martini's and that is just a whole different kettle of fish best left for another day.

Phew, now that the easy question is done on to the complex question. What makes a good scotch.

Firstly, unless you come across a bottle of 21-year-old Royal Salute or Hibiki 17-year-old DO NOT DRINK BLENDED WHISKY!!!! Blended whisky is rubbish. Even 'good' blended whisky, like Johnny Walker Blue, is crap and over priced crap at that. You can do SO much better than them. Johnny Blue is currently around $200 a bottle in most decent bottle shops and I could give you a list of whiskies as long as my belly is round that cost half the price and kick it all around the bar all day, every day. Blended whisky is what you use if you want a scotch and coke. Real whisky is always a single malt with some oddball exceptions like solera tun whiskies but that is another lesson for another day.

Secondly, Scotch is highly personalised and it takes a LONG time to truly understand the differences and develop your personal taste. What's good for me may be rubbish to you and vice versa. Get out there and try stuff. If you can handle it, drink it neat (by its self, no ice and no mixer) with just a TINY dash of water mixed in. If that is too rough, drink it on the rocks. If that is still too rough it means that whatever you are drinking is either horse piss or you just don't like it. Move on to another whisky and try again. Talk to your bartender, if they are worth two grains of salt they will be able to at least tell you the region the whisky is from. You will start to get an idea of what regions make what sort of whisky and find similar ones that you may enjoy.

As for regions, Scotland is divided into 4 main areas when talking about whisky. The Lowland, The Highland, Speyside and the Isle of Islay. Each region has it's own unique flavours and styles.

The Lowlands - The Lowlands region lies south of an imaginary line drawn from the Clyde estuary to the Tay estuary. Whiskies from the Lowlands tend to be soft and light in character. They often display very malty, grassy characteristics and subtle delicate aromas. Examples include Glenkinchie, Blandoch and Auchentoshan.

The Highlands - Moving north of the imaginary line takes us in to the Highland region. The region includes most of the rest of Scotland, with the exception of the Island of Islay and Campbeltown, and thus its malts vary greatly in character. Generalisations about the Highland region are less valid, as its whiskies will range from dry to sweet and some even have a touch of smoke and peat. Examples include Glenmorangie, Blair Athol and Talisker.

Speyside - Technically Speyside lies within the Highland region. It is home to approximately half of Scotland's malt whisky distilleries. This small area of land located to the north west of Aberdeen produces mellow, sweet, and particularly fruity malt whiskies. Examples include Glenfiddich, Glenlivet and Macallan.

Islay - Located in the Inner Hebrides, the small Island of Islay is often called 'Whisky Island' given its concentration of eight distilleries. The island produces very distinct malts, generally heavily peated and smoky in taste. Examples include Bowmore, Ardbeg and Laphroaig.

As a new whisky drinker I?d recommend looking for Speyside Malts to begin with. They tend to be easier to find and are friendlier to new drinkers. Glenfiddich is a great whisky to start with as it is easy to drink and is a nice, middle of the road flavour and is reasonably priced. Macallan is a great whisky to expand your palette on as it ranges in price and quality by large degrees, the 10-year-old fine oak is a great entry point (around $70 a bottle) and it goes up from there. I personally think the 25-year-old Sherry Oak is one of the best whiskies I have ever had but it is VERY expensive, around $500 a bottle.

Lowland malts tend to be hard to come by so unless you get very lucky I wouldn't bother going looking for them. Highland malts can be all over the place in terms of flavours so try some different ones out. The ones I listed above are good starting points.

Islay Malts are the big boy whiskies. HUGE flavours, heavy on peat and smoke. They taste like a glass of rich earth that someone put into a smoking hood for a week before blending down to be drunk. This is where you go to if the other whiskies lack the balls to put hair on your chest. Definitely not for everyone but these are my go to malts. I try keeping a bottle of Laphroaig 10 year old at home whenever my meagre uni student lifestyle allows for it. A close second for me is Oban.

So yeah, there is the VERY short intro to whisky knowledge from me ☺ Best bet is simply to get out there and try stuff. All the knowledge in the world comes to squat if you don't actually try them. Another time we'll talk about the other nations whisky/whiskey types.

  • Like 1

Jameson and Dry they best way to finish off the day.

As for scotch, Cragganmore 12 is nice but my favorite is glenmorangie port cask (Quinta Ruban), but anything speyside is quite drinkable.

I agree the Islay whiskys are very smokey (ie laphroaig) and peaty, and they can git tae fook.

I lived in scotland for 12 months and drank quite a few drams whilst I was there, and there are so many fantastic tasting whiskys that are made by boutique distilleries, and are quite cheap to buy, the only issue is that they only sell it over in Scotland :(.

Another think I find is that people who only drink Vodka have extremely bad taste :P

lemons?

or taunt it for a couple of years....

haha. i uses lemon juice lemonade, and a small amount of sugar then blend it with ice.

however dem fat maryqueens have sour mix over there which, no matter how hard i try i cannot replicate!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks, I removed the fuse and the relay from the car and made my own circuit with them to test them with a test bulb.  I will look for the wiring diagram and go from there.
    • Jdm DC2R is also nice for a FF car compared to the regular hatches of the time.
    • Now that the break-in period for both clutch and transmission is nearly over I'd like to give some tips before I forget about everything that happened, also for anyone searching up how to do this job in the future: You will need at least 6 ton jack stands at full extension. I would go as far as to say maybe consider 12 ton jack stands because the height of the transmission + the Harbor Freight hydraulic platform-style transmission jack was enough that it was an absolute PITA getting the transmission out from under the car and back in. The top edge of the bellhousing wants to contact the subframe and oil pan and if you're doing this on the floor forget about trying to lift this transmission off the ground and onto a transmission jack from under the car. Also do not try to use a scissor jack transmission lift. You have to rotate the damn thing in-place on the transmission jack which is hard enough with an adjustable platform and a transmission cradle that will mostly keep the transmission from rolling off the jack but on a scissor lift with a tiny non-adjustable platform? Forget it. Use penetrating oil on the driveshaft bolts. I highly recommend getting a thin 6 point combination (box end + open end) wrench for both the rear driveshaft and front driveshaft and a wrench extension. These bolts are on tight with very little space to work with and those two things together made a massive difference. Even a high torque impact wrench is just the wrong tool for the job here and didn't do what I needed it to do. If your starter bolts aren't seized in place for whatever reason you can in fact snake in a 3/8 inch ratchet + 6 point standard chrome socket up in there and "just" remove the bolts for the starter. Or at least I could. It is entirely by feel, you can barely fit it in, you can barely turn the stupid ratchet, but it is possible. Pull the front pipe/downpipe before you attempt to remove the transmission. In theory you don't have to, in practice just do it.  When pulling the transmission on the way out you don't have to undo all the bolts holding the rear driveshaft to the chassis like the center support bearing and the rear tunnel reinforcement bar but putting the transmission back in I highly recommend doing this because it will let you raise the transmission without constantly dealing with the driveshaft interfering in one way or another. I undid the bottom of the engine mount but I honestly don't know that it helped anything. If you do this make sure you put a towel on the back of the valve cover to keep the engine from smashing all the pipes on the firewall. Once the transmission has been pulled back far enough to clear the dowels you need to twist it in place clockwise if you're sitting behind the transmission. This will rotate the starter down towards the ground. The starter bump seems like it might clear if you twist the transmission the other way but it definitely won't. I have scraped the shit out of my transmission tunnel trying so learn from my mistake. You will need a center punch and an appropriate size drill bit and screw to pull the rear main seal. Then use vice grips and preferably a slide hammer attachment for those vice grips to yank the seal out. Do not let the drill or screw contact any part of the crank and clean the engine carefully after removing the seal to avoid getting metal fragments into the engine. I used a Slide Hammer and Bearing Puller Set, 5 Piece from Harbor Freight to pull the old pilot bearing. The "wet paper towel" trick sucked and just got dirty clutch water everywhere. Buy the tool or borrow it from a friend and save yourself the pain. It comes right out. Mine was very worn compared to the new one and it was starting to show cracks. Soak it in engine oil for a day in case yours has lost all of the oil to the plastic bag it comes in. You may be tempted to get the Nismo aftermarket pilot bearing but local mechanics have told me that they fail prematurely and if they do fail they do far more damage than a failed OEM pilot bushing. I mentioned this before but the Super Coppermix Twin clutch friction disks are in fact directional. The subtle coning of the fingers in both cases should be facing towards the center of the hub. So the coning on the rearmost disk closest to the pressure plate should go towards the engine, and the one closest to the flywheel should be flipped the other way. Otherwise when you torque down the pressure plate it will be warped and if you attempt to drive it like this it will make a very nasty grinding noise. Also, there is in fact an orientation to the washers for the pressure plate if you don't want to damage the anodizing. Rounded side of the washer faces the pressure plate. The flat side faces the bolt head. Pulling the transmission from the transfer case you need to be extremely careful with the shift cover plate. This part is discontinued. Try your best to avoid damaging the mating surfaces or breaking the pry points. I used a dead blow rubber hammer after removing the bolts to smack it sideways to slide it off the RTV the previous mechanic applied. I recommend using gasket dressing on the OEM paper gasket to try and keep the ATF from leaking out of that surface which seems to be a perpetual problem. Undoing the shifter rod end is an absolute PITA. Get a set of roll pin punches. Those are mandatory for this. Also I strongly, strongly recommend getting a palm nailer that will fit your roll pin punch. Also, put a clean (emphasis on clean) towel wrapped around the back end of the roll pin to keep it from shooting into the transfer case so you can spend a good hour or two with a magnet on a stick getting it out. Do not damage the shifter rod end either because those are discontinued as well. Do not use aftermarket flywheel bolts. Or if you do, make sure they are exactly the same dimensions as OEM before you go to install them. I have seen people mention that they got the wrong bolts and it meant having to do the job again. High torque impact wrench makes removal easy. I used some combination of a pry bar and flathead screwdriver to keep the flywheel from turning but consider just buying a proper flywheel lock instead. Just buy the OS Giken clutch alignment tool from RHDJapan. I hated the plastic alignment tool and you will never be confident this thing will work as intended. Don't forget to install the Nismo provided clutch fork boot. Otherwise it will make unearthly noises when you press the clutch pedal as it says on the little installation sheet in Japanese. Also, on both initial disassembly and assembly you must follow torque sequence for the pressure plate bolts. For some reason the Nismo directions tell you to put in the smaller 3 bolts last. I would not do this. Fully insert and thread those bolts to the end first, then tighten the other larger pressure plate bolts according to torque sequence. Then at the end you can also torque these 3 smaller bolts. Doing it the other way can cause these bolts to bind and the whole thing won't fit as it should. Hope this helps someone out there.
×
×
  • Create New...