Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

I'm currently building a 25/30 with a neo head. I have just bought a stagea

25 with coilpacks, injectors, manifolds etc.. But no loom.

I have a 33 wiring loom & ecu that I am going to use because I heard the

33 ecu is less restrictive than the 34..

Just wanted to know what wiring difficulties I will run into & what I will have

to do.

Cheers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Big mistake - the R34 ecu is better because it can be Nistuned and will control the VCT. Although in my case it deosn't matter as i have a Link G4 in the original Stagea case and loom.

Hello,

I'm currently building a 25/30 with a neo head. I have just bought a stagea

25 with coilpacks, injectors, manifolds etc.. But no loom.

I have a 33 wiring loom & ecu that I am going to use because I heard the

33 ecu is less restrictive than the 34..

Just wanted to know what wiring difficulties I will run into & what I will have

to do.

Cheers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You need the loom that matches the externals and sensors, and they all go in the head. So pick on that matches your head (c34 stagea?)

Having said that, looms can be modified if required.

You really need to change the ECU when you change to a 3l bottom end because the airflow will be very different, so buy an ECU that fits into your engine loom (although again, the loom can be modified for a different ECU, and many ECUs are total wire in anyway)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the input guys, So I won't be able to run the

33 wiring & ecu at all?

I have the plug for the 34 VCT I was just going to cut

& wire that into the loom..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You don't want to use a standard ecu so you need either an R34 ecu with a Nistune chip.... or you could probably fit a Link or Vipec into your R33 case and use the loom so long as you double check the pinouts but the R33 ecu itself is no good to you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Alright then, thanks for that.

Would it be a good idea just to buy a z32 ECU so it

matches the AFM & get it nistuned or just go aftermarket

all together?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most ECUs can deal with different AFMs so that's not a big deal.

Basically any tuneable ECU will be fine including Nistune, Power FC (I'm using this on mine), Link etc etc. The thing to watch out for cost wise is weather they have a plug in for the head (and loom) you have because wire in can be expensive.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the input guys, I'm thinking go with the Link G4.

It seems great bang for your buck in ECU's.

Simon will that plug straight into the loom?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Once the airbag is off, to remove the steering wheel.... Undo the 2 plugs into the clock spring, and the horn connector from it's clip. Hit the 19mm nut with a rattle gun (preferably) or if you don't' have one, you probably want an assistant to hold the wheel in place while you use a breaker bar to undo the nut Then, screw the nut back on 3 turns, and pull the wheel sharply towards you. If that doesn't work hit it medium force with a rubber mallet on either side, or possible behind if you can get there. If that all fails (it shouldn't!) you might need a steering wheel puller
    • So, to next task....the carbon fibre steering wheel was either an expensive factory option or a chinesium special. Either way, I don't like either the flat bottom or thick ring style, so it had to go So...to remove the steering wheel.... First, disconnect battery negative and stop on the brake pedal for a few seconds. Then, remove the small circular covers on each side of the wheel's rear surround to uncover the airbag clips. You need to push something like a flat bladed screw driver through, you need to push the steel clip inwards and pull the side of the airbag forward. Once you've done the easy side, same on the centre console side. You can see the tab you are shooting for circled in red Then, disconnect the horn spade connector and for the yellow airbag plug you need to get something small under the black locking tab to pop it out, then the connector releases......airbag is off  
    • @99RS4just wondering if you ever took photos of the footwell lighting / how you bypassed the controller, im keen to haver footwell lighting come on when I open the doors too   
    • Ultimately, if the tip is not far into the runner and the o-ring seals, then you are in business. Have you applied pressure to it as is? It is not really a problem for the injector to twist once it is bolted down, the oring seals it and you don't want it jambed into the oring too hard The plenum is intended to take multiple size lower injectors with different adapters, but the way you have it is fine if they seal.
    • Are these the Dmax ones you are in reference too? https://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35#description Not a bad idea to get the uni flange ones. I have sent just jap an email too. Will see what they say lmao. Only thing is the Dmax ones are on a big back order. Low key anything will be better then my OEM ones I got as they are sounding like popcorn when I go under load lmao 😂☠️🪦.
×
×
  • Create New...