Pre Checks Before Waking Up Godzilla !

[AnDreeZy]

It's been 6 months now since I decided to endevour the difficult task if r&r of the shit rb26 stock turbos.

Delay after delay from wrong banjo bolts to dropping bolts down my turbo. Wanting to do everything right so I won't take it out again anytime soon!

Anyways I have finally completed the task!

Cars been sitting for 6 months without starting and I would like some opinions before I give her a crank

Long story short should I change oil with mineral to flush then drop again for synthetic or just leave oil and put new synthetic oil in after its at OT

I have changed the coolant so it's fresh

I will be taking out the spark plugs and dropping a bit of oil down the piston tops to help guard against removing surface rust

Changing spark plugs while I'm at it

Checked all hoses and lines.

Now finally the oil is Dam filthy. Wouldn't feel happy with it running through my engine so a change is a must.

But the head/cam lobes is pretty much dry from sitting around

So I was thinking of dropping the oil cold and finding a cheap synthetic oil to flush out the system of any possible stupid previous owner debris before the first start!

And then draining the cheap oil and filter for proper synthetic oil? This way the head gets more lubed up and the old oil gets flushed out easily? And hopefully it primes my new lines?

My problem: is it alright to use mineral oil to flush out the old gunk (for < 100km ) cause synthetic oil seems a bit of a waste to use as a complete flush, or am I better off just biting the bullet and let the cam lobes grind on the lifters for a few seconds and change the oil and filter normally after that?

Wanna reduce metal on metal as much as possible

Edited June 16, 2013 by AnDreeZy

[D.I.Y. Mik]

Why not take off the rockers and oil up the cams?

[AnDreeZy]

Why not take off the rockers and oil up the cams?

ive managed to strip 1 bolt on the intake cam cover because of the stupid screwdriver head bolt.

mustved been locked in by the gasket glue or something.... wouldnt even budge with an impact driver >.<

rest of them came out fine

[luke gtr]

change oil.

disconnect ignition module.

crank until oil pressure(should be able to get some).

start.

If it doesnt build oil pressure, will need running speed to get it.

mine was a complete fresh rebuild.

sitting for 12 months.

this is what I done.

[RosieR34]

Did you have any pictures of your motor vehicle Luke? I'm sure it's lying around in the NSW section somewhere.

[AnDreeZy]

ive managed to strip 1 bolt on the intake cam cover because of the stupid screwdriver head bolt.

mustved been locked in by the gasket glue or something.... wouldnt even budge with an impact driver >.<

rest of them came out fine

you dropped the old oil cold and dropped new oil in straight away?

i just opned up my coilpacks and found oil, i was shitting myself until i touched it and it turned outto be brand new oil in some dirt haha

guess previous owner wasnt steady with his hands when putting oil down the cylinder LOL

[luke gtr]

Did you have any pictures of your motor vehicle Luke? I'm sure it's lying around in the NSW section somewhere.

heaps.

what stage/colour/rear do you want to see?

[RosieR34]

heaps.

what stage/colour/rear do you want to see?

ALL, SHOW ME ALL !!!

Whatever is current I spose

[AnDreeZy]

Anyways back on topic!

Cranked like 2 times thn my battery died

Also found out I wa running bkr7es

Is there and advantage to this spark plug compared to bcpr7es?

Also my attessa kept making a sort of rubber runnin on glass burbling sound when the battery was low and the torque gauge would twitch to 1 and attessa would turn off ? And start up again after 5 secods? Is this normal? Accumulator f**ked ? D:

[luke gtr]

the plugs are standard, not platinum.

just means you cant leave them 100k.

the attessa is probably having fits with the low battery voltage.

charge it up, and try again.

[AnDreeZy]

the plugs are standard, not platinum.

just means you cant leave them 100k.

the attessa is probably having fits with the low battery voltage.

charge it up, and try again.

i think both bkr7e and bcpr7e are both copper/standard plugs which need general maintainence?

is there comparisons between them?

Battery is on a charge tonight, will try again tomorrow

And anyone ever flush their 26 out with mineral oil and then changedback to synthetic oil before?

aparently mineral wont go through small cracks like synthetic does?

[luke gtr]

the p in the second part number points to platinum.

and ive heard of flushing with mineral oil to get esther oils out, not sure about the crack thing.

[AnDreeZy]

I'm fair sure it's just some acronym used by NGK about the spark head. Platinum plugs have a different code like IX at the end and cost more than $4 a plug haha

Anyways would it be safe to run the normal cheap (mineral) oil to try flush out any debris for a few Kms then drop it and pour in some full synthetic?

Or will this damage my engine more than clean it?

[luke gtr]

nah, should be good.

just try and drop before 500kms, then refill with the good stuff.

[DAN00H]

I'm fair sure it's just some acronym used by NGK about the spark head. Platinum plugs have a different code like IX at the end and cost more than $4 a plug haha

Anyways would it be safe to run the normal cheap (mineral) oil to try flush out any debris for a few Kms then drop it and pour in some full synthetic?

Or will this damage my engine more than clean it?

get a low weight mineral oil and a filter I like to use Valvoline Engine armour, only need to run it for about 5 minutes, ONCE YOU HAVE PRIMED THE TURBOS - don't start the car without doing this (as described, remove the coilpack harness) and crank for about 20 seconds let the starter cool for 15 - 20 seconds then crank for 20 seconds again (I cycled like this for about 3 minutes to ensure the turbos HAD oil) then drain and replace with synthetic . don't forget to bleed your cooling system once running, otherwise you will get issues with overheating due to air pockets. I just run copper plugs in mine and they are fine. if you are really an@l, or the oil is really bad after the 1st drain do the mineral flush twice.

[AnDreeZy]

get a low weight mineral oil and a filter I like to use Valvoline Engine armour, only need to run it for about 5 minutes, ONCE YOU HAVE PRIMED THE TURBOS - don't start the car without doing this (as described, remove the coilpack harness) and crank for about 20 seconds let the starter cool for 15 - 20 seconds then crank for 20 seconds again (I cycled like this for about 3 minutes to ensure the turbos HAD oil) then drain and replace with synthetic . don't forget to bleed your cooling system once running, otherwise you will get issues with overheating due to air pockets. I just run copper plugs in mine and they are fine. if you are really an@l, or the oil is really bad after the 1st drain do the mineral flush twice.

Haha alright ill jsut get some 10-30 or whatever autobarn has on sale for cheap.

will let the old oil drain cold for an hour or so then add the new oil

and then prime the shiet outa the turbos

coolant is all good will do a heater on bleed once im running the car with the mineral oil

Thanks for the advice