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Pre Checks Before Waking Up Godzilla !

Guest

By Guest,
in Australian Capital Territory

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Guest

Guest

Posted
Posted (edited)

It's been 6 months now since I decided to endevour the difficult task if r&r of the shit rb26 stock turbos.

Delay after delay from wrong banjo bolts to dropping bolts down my turbo. Wanting to do everything right so I won't take it out again anytime soon!

Anyways I have finally completed the task!

Cars been sitting for 6 months without starting and I would like some opinions before I give her a crank

Long story short should I change oil with mineral to flush then drop again for synthetic or just leave oil and put new synthetic oil in after its at OT

I have changed the coolant so it's fresh

I will be taking out the spark plugs and dropping a bit of oil down the piston tops to help guard against removing surface rust

Changing spark plugs while I'm at it

Checked all hoses and lines.

Now finally the oil is Dam filthy. Wouldn't feel happy with it running through my engine so a change is a must.

But the head/cam lobes is pretty much dry from sitting around

So I was thinking of dropping the oil cold and finding a cheap synthetic oil to flush out the system of any possible stupid previous owner debris before the first start!

And then draining the cheap oil and filter for proper synthetic oil? This way the head gets more lubed up and the old oil gets flushed out easily? And hopefully it primes my new lines? :)

My problem: is it alright to use mineral oil to flush out the old gunk (for < 100km ) cause synthetic oil seems a bit of a waste to use as a complete flush, or am I better off just biting the bullet and let the cam lobes grind on the lifters for a few seconds and change the oil and filter normally after that?

Wanna reduce metal on metal as much as possible :D

Edited by AnDreeZy
Guest

Guest

Posted
Posted

Why not take off the rockers and oil up the cams?

ive managed to strip 1 bolt on the intake cam cover because of the stupid screwdriver head bolt.

mustved been locked in by the gasket glue or something.... wouldnt even budge with an impact driver >.<

rest of them came out fine

luke gtr Grand Master

luke gtr

Posted
Posted

change oil.

disconnect ignition module.

crank until oil pressure(should be able to get some).

start.

If it doesnt build oil pressure, will need running speed to get it.

mine was a complete fresh rebuild.

sitting for 12 months.

this is what I done.

Guest

Guest

Posted
Posted

ive managed to strip 1 bolt on the intake cam cover because of the stupid screwdriver head bolt.

mustved been locked in by the gasket glue or something.... wouldnt even budge with an impact driver >.<

rest of them came out fine

you dropped the old oil cold and dropped new oil in straight away?

i just opned up my coilpacks and found oil, i was shitting myself until i touched it and it turned outto be brand new oil in some dirt haha

guess previous owner wasnt steady with his hands when putting oil down the cylinder LOL

Guest

Guest

Posted
Posted

Anyways back on topic!

Cranked like 2 times thn my battery died :(

Also found out I wa running bkr7es

Is there and advantage to this spark plug compared to bcpr7es?

Also my attessa kept making a sort of rubber runnin on glass burbling sound when the battery was low and the torque gauge would twitch to 1 and attessa would turn off ? And start up again after 5 secods? Is this normal? Accumulator f**ked ? D:

Guest

Guest

Posted
Posted

the plugs are standard, not platinum.

just means you cant leave them 100k.

the attessa is probably having fits with the low battery voltage.

charge it up, and try again.

i think both bkr7e and bcpr7e are both copper/standard plugs which need general maintainence?

is there comparisons between them?

Battery is on a charge tonight, will try again tomorrow :)

And anyone ever flush their 26 out with mineral oil and then changedback to synthetic oil before?

aparently mineral wont go through small cracks like synthetic does?

Guest

Guest

Posted
Posted

I'm fair sure it's just some acronym used by NGK about the spark head. Platinum plugs have a different code like IX at the end and cost more than $4 a plug haha

Anyways would it be safe to run the normal cheap (mineral) oil to try flush out any debris for a few Kms then drop it and pour in some full synthetic?

Or will this damage my engine more than clean it?

DAN00H Mentor

DAN00H

Posted
Posted

I'm fair sure it's just some acronym used by NGK about the spark head. Platinum plugs have a different code like IX at the end and cost more than $4 a plug haha

Anyways would it be safe to run the normal cheap (mineral) oil to try flush out any debris for a few Kms then drop it and pour in some full synthetic?

Or will this damage my engine more than clean it?

get a low weight mineral oil and a filter I like to use Valvoline Engine armour, only need to run it for about 5 minutes, ONCE YOU HAVE PRIMED THE TURBOS - don't start the car without doing this (as described, remove the coilpack harness) and crank for about 20 seconds let the starter cool for 15 - 20 seconds then crank for 20 seconds again (I cycled like this for about 3 minutes to ensure the turbos HAD oil) then drain and replace with synthetic . don't forget to bleed your cooling system once running, otherwise you will get issues with overheating due to air pockets. I just run copper plugs in mine and they are fine. if you are really an@l, or the oil is really bad after the 1st drain do the mineral flush twice.

Guest

Guest

Posted
Posted

get a low weight mineral oil and a filter I like to use Valvoline Engine armour, only need to run it for about 5 minutes, ONCE YOU HAVE PRIMED THE TURBOS - don't start the car without doing this (as described, remove the coilpack harness) and crank for about 20 seconds let the starter cool for 15 - 20 seconds then crank for 20 seconds again (I cycled like this for about 3 minutes to ensure the turbos HAD oil) then drain and replace with synthetic . don't forget to bleed your cooling system once running, otherwise you will get issues with overheating due to air pockets. I just run copper plugs in mine and they are fine. if you are really an@l, or the oil is really bad after the 1st drain do the mineral flush twice.

Haha alright ill jsut get some 10-30 or whatever autobarn has on sale for cheap.

will let the old oil drain cold for an hour or so then add the new oil :)

and then prime the shiet outa the turbos :D

coolant is all good :) will do a heater on bleed once im running the car with the mineral oil :)

Thanks for the advice :D

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