Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You can get e85 delivered in drums but it's quite expensive isn't it compared to at the pump.? Better off going water methanol + 95-98 octane fuel preferably 98 octane and water/meth as jet_r31 mentioned.

Cheers Josh

I looked into this a fair few years ago before E85 was available - octane booster will generally raise a fuels given octane by a few points. Ie point-something of an octane. So 98 will become 98.2 octane for example. The only way to get a decent boost in octane is to mix something like Toluene with 98 (121RON, turbo F1 cars used an 86% Toluene/14% n-Heptane filler blend. It's pretty nasty to handle but you could get it in drums as of a few years ago). Mixed at 65% 98 / 35% Toluene this will get you up to around the same octane as E85 at a much higher cost vs pump E85.

I think your only viable options are either reduce the compression ratio of that motor to run 98, run water/meth like Darren said (if you do run water/meth I'd listen to this man!), buy E85 drums or take a trip to either Newcastle or Kempsey and fill up a few jerry cans.

Edited by XR Pilot

Octane booster is also completely unreliable and probably doesn't even add half as much octane rating as claimed. I made some from mothballs and petrol in the 1990s that was probably at least as effective (ie it didn't really do anything).

mythbusters did a test with fuel additives, the moth balls seemed to do pretty well haha

I definitely would not recommend using 98 + octane booster. Due to some flooding that we had a few years ago, I got stranded in my R34 and was forced to use 91 RON fuel as it was the only option I had to get home. I added octane booster as a safeguard. Still suffered engine failure haha :P Thankfully I can laugh about it now! 3 years and counting and I still have not finished rebuilding it!

I would recommend the water / methanol option. But remember, as you are relying on it for everyday driving you need to make sure the setup is ultra reliable and has the appropriate failsafes.

I definitely would not recommend using 98 + octane booster. Due to some flooding that we had a few years ago, I got stranded in my R34 and was forced to use 91 RON fuel as it was the only option I had to get home. I added octane booster as a safeguard. Still suffered engine failure haha :P Thankfully I can laugh about it now! 3 years and counting and I still have not finished rebuilding it!

I would recommend the water / methanol option. But remember, as you are relying on it for everyday driving you need to make sure the setup is ultra reliable and has the appropriate failsafes.

Well that sounds wrong, if you weren't on boost and loading the car up it shouldn't matter. Baby the car and you can drive it on 91 octane easily. I've never seen a car so aggressively tuned on the low load part of the map that it detonates on 91 octane.

Edited by Super Drager

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The R32 suffers from an instrument binnacle that is uncomfortably close to the design of a VN Commodore's. But beyond that, the layout of the rest of everything, and the materials (ie the vinyl coverings on dash, armrest, etc) are acceptable, and the patterns on the fabrics are not as blergh as those in the R33. And R33 seats are....quite unattractive. I know it's only small details there, but I reckon the R33 got worse than the 32. But the big blergh is the overall shape of the dash on the R33. It's just has that whole Maxima/Pulsar sort of look to it. Nothing special at all. Generic Nissan sedan. Whereas, at least the R32 dash/binnacle was different. Less a wide expanse of boringly curved plastic. More a "cockpit" sort of look, even if nowhere near to the degree that the A90 Supras got. R34 seats look good on their own, until you realise that they are indistinguishable from the shape and fabric on 70 other Japanese cars. And the foam bolsters on them suffer even worse than the earlier cars. Other than that I don't really have an opinion the rest of the R34 interior. I took the bits of the R34 I wanted (brakes and engine) and added them to the best external appearance Skyline in the modern era (the 32). So nyerr!
    • Can I be your first customer? I would like hard lines done for the fuel system, 8AN up and 8AN back and the underside wire wheeled and coated (brush or sprayed) with that black tar shit.
    • Speak for yourself, I love the R33 interior. 32 is blergh. I like the 34 interior too. Then you start getting much newer in most cars and they all turn back to blergh. 馃槢
    • 500-600hp into a RB is already 'sinking endless amounts of money' into an engine. Especially a 30 year old engine. Unfortunately this is the RB Game. Considering stock power (or at least stock components) will do ~360whp on 98 by simply turning up the boost on the stock gear on a RB26, that would be where I'd say the cutoff point for "sinking endless amounts of money into the engine" Cause to even do this reliably you'd probably need to replace all the bits anyway cause they're old, starting your sinking journey anyway. I reckon the least painful way is rebuilding the engine to make 50hp over stock lol. The 'plan your ownership around a rebuild' was a common saying 15 years ago.
    • Well, the NA RB25 is nothing special in terms of the amount of power it makes stock, nor with any easy mods like extractors & exhaust, opening up the intake tract, etc, etc. And just like any small capacity NA engine, getting lots of power out of them takes a fair bit of money and, depending on how far you go with big cams and high compression and so on, quite grumpy to drive. So, boost is the answer. Many many many of them have had a turbo added. This is easy enough. Same as for any engine. Need the things you need to bolt on the turbo of choice, fuel system and management upgrades, clutch, stronger gearbox ( you do not want to run a boost RB25 through the NA box), diff, brakes, etc, etc, same as you would for most other NA+T things. Some much smaller number have had a supercharger added instead. These are good and cool, but have nowhere near the potential of the turbo route. All the same required upgrades apply. So, potential? Anywhere from not much to quite a lot, depending on how much effort and expense you want to go to. Is there value in the effort and expense? Objectively, no, there is not. If you're gaining enjoyment and don't mind blowing a lot of money on the project, then that's where the value is. Parts? Nissan dealers for some. Many many on-line vendors who do Japanese manufacturer spares (buy buying them from disposals at dealers around the world, direct from manufacturers, increasingly from Chinese knockoffs, etc) and warehousing them in Dubai or similar places. Amayama, Partsouk, etc etc. There are quite a few. Some local to Australia, some local to Europe, some local to the US. You can upgrade literally everything. For an NA, unless you're going to boost it, there's little point going past a nice exhaust, as I said above. After that (well, actually probably even before that) you should concentrate on making it handle the best it can, good brake components, light wheels and tyres, and just make it something to enjoy throwing through the curves. You'll never, ever win any drag races, so it needs to be taken as a nice point-to-point car. Throw in some Recaros or Brides, nice Momo wheel and gearknob, so it's pleasant to be in (because god knows, the inside of an R33 is not a pretty place!!) and away you go.
  • Create New...