Jump to content
SAU Community

98 Plus Octane Booster

MRHD66

By MRHD66,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Joshbigt62r Proficient

Joshbigt62r

Posted
Posted

You can get e85 delivered in drums but it's quite expensive isn't it compared to at the pump.? Better off going water methanol + 95-98 octane fuel preferably 98 octane and water/meth as jet_r31 mentioned.

Cheers Josh

XR Pilot Contributor

XR Pilot

Posted
Posted (edited)

I looked into this a fair few years ago before E85 was available - octane booster will generally raise a fuels given octane by a few points. Ie point-something of an octane. So 98 will become 98.2 octane for example. The only way to get a decent boost in octane is to mix something like Toluene with 98 (121RON, turbo F1 cars used an 86% Toluene/14% n-Heptane filler blend. It's pretty nasty to handle but you could get it in drums as of a few years ago). Mixed at 65% 98 / 35% Toluene this will get you up to around the same octane as E85 at a much higher cost vs pump E85.

I think your only viable options are either reduce the compression ratio of that motor to run 98, run water/meth like Darren said (if you do run water/meth I'd listen to this man!), buy E85 drums or take a trip to either Newcastle or Kempsey and fill up a few jerry cans.

Edited by XR Pilot
WMDC35 Experienced

WMDC35

Posted
Posted

Octane booster is also completely unreliable and probably doesn't even add half as much octane rating as claimed. I made some from mothballs and petrol in the 1990s that was probably at least as effective (ie it didn't really do anything).

mythbusters did a test with fuel additives, the moth balls seemed to do pretty well haha

JustinP Mentor

JustinP

Posted
Posted

I definitely would not recommend using 98 + octane booster. Due to some flooding that we had a few years ago, I got stranded in my R34 and was forced to use 91 RON fuel as it was the only option I had to get home. I added octane booster as a safeguard. Still suffered engine failure haha :P Thankfully I can laugh about it now! 3 years and counting and I still have not finished rebuilding it!

I would recommend the water / methanol option. But remember, as you are relying on it for everyday driving you need to make sure the setup is ultra reliable and has the appropriate failsafes.

Super Drager Mentor

Super Drager

Posted
Posted (edited)

I definitely would not recommend using 98 + octane booster. Due to some flooding that we had a few years ago, I got stranded in my R34 and was forced to use 91 RON fuel as it was the only option I had to get home. I added octane booster as a safeguard. Still suffered engine failure haha :P Thankfully I can laugh about it now! 3 years and counting and I still have not finished rebuilding it!

I would recommend the water / methanol option. But remember, as you are relying on it for everyday driving you need to make sure the setup is ultra reliable and has the appropriate failsafes.

Well that sounds wrong, if you weren't on boost and loading the car up it shouldn't matter. Baby the car and you can drive it on 91 octane easily. I've never seen a car so aggressively tuned on the low load part of the map that it detonates on 91 octane.

Edited by Super Drager

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • DRoc81
      Shifting questions

      By DRoc81 · Posted

      This was a huge help.  We followed the steps,  although shifting into 2nd was actually into 3rd for us,  and 1st was into 2nd ( steps 9 and 11) .  The long flash was the 4th flash.  So shift solenoid A is possibly the culprit.  Is this inside the transmission itself? Or is it accessible by just front the pan? Or is it bolted to the outside of the transmission?  Thanos for your help everyone
    • sunsetR33
      ugently need expert / experienced opinion

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Can you enlighten me on your best practice regarding these hoses? I don't wanna make the same mistake if you already got a better solution.
    • sunsetR33
      ugently need expert / experienced opinion

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      I have some silicon hoses already, for example engine to watercooler. But yeah, I get the sentiment. The lower intercooler silicon hose is drippy too, despite not being very old. Does anyone except Nismo make these same lines out of rubber? Long term I think they'd be the better replacement, especially since the car won't live as hard a life anymore as in the past nor be driven as often.
    • sunsetR33
      ugently need expert / experienced opinion

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      I know most issues are just age related. But for example the turbo oil drains, there is dash adapters for these and you can just make a braided teflon line for them and (probably) never have them leak again. Also not terribly expensive. Can you even get the factory hardlines from new? Or are they repairable if they break?
    • sunsetR33
      ugently need expert / experienced opinion

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      I know it'd be much much easier with the tool. I hope I can find one that won't take 3 weeks to get to me an isn't a "Asian models kit" that has tons of (to me) useless adapters for a load of cash.   It's a summer project/fun car. I do wanna enjoy it, without endless downtime over and over. So yeah I would even go and buy an engine crane + stand to save myself the trouble of hard to reach or unreachable places going bad later on. Would also be a good opportunity to put on a Fluidamper, renew the mains seals and stuff like that. I have some money on the side that I can use for that, what I wouldn't want to or be able to do is let everything be done by a shop or have my engine completely rebuild right now. I intend to do most of the "doable" jobs myself. Pulling an engine can't be that hard, can it?
×
×
  • Create New...