Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You can get e85 delivered in drums but it's quite expensive isn't it compared to at the pump.? Better off going water methanol + 95-98 octane fuel preferably 98 octane and water/meth as jet_r31 mentioned.

Cheers Josh

I looked into this a fair few years ago before E85 was available - octane booster will generally raise a fuels given octane by a few points. Ie point-something of an octane. So 98 will become 98.2 octane for example. The only way to get a decent boost in octane is to mix something like Toluene with 98 (121RON, turbo F1 cars used an 86% Toluene/14% n-Heptane filler blend. It's pretty nasty to handle but you could get it in drums as of a few years ago). Mixed at 65% 98 / 35% Toluene this will get you up to around the same octane as E85 at a much higher cost vs pump E85.

I think your only viable options are either reduce the compression ratio of that motor to run 98, run water/meth like Darren said (if you do run water/meth I'd listen to this man!), buy E85 drums or take a trip to either Newcastle or Kempsey and fill up a few jerry cans.

Edited by XR Pilot

Octane booster is also completely unreliable and probably doesn't even add half as much octane rating as claimed. I made some from mothballs and petrol in the 1990s that was probably at least as effective (ie it didn't really do anything).

mythbusters did a test with fuel additives, the moth balls seemed to do pretty well haha

I definitely would not recommend using 98 + octane booster. Due to some flooding that we had a few years ago, I got stranded in my R34 and was forced to use 91 RON fuel as it was the only option I had to get home. I added octane booster as a safeguard. Still suffered engine failure haha :P Thankfully I can laugh about it now! 3 years and counting and I still have not finished rebuilding it!

I would recommend the water / methanol option. But remember, as you are relying on it for everyday driving you need to make sure the setup is ultra reliable and has the appropriate failsafes.

I definitely would not recommend using 98 + octane booster. Due to some flooding that we had a few years ago, I got stranded in my R34 and was forced to use 91 RON fuel as it was the only option I had to get home. I added octane booster as a safeguard. Still suffered engine failure haha :P Thankfully I can laugh about it now! 3 years and counting and I still have not finished rebuilding it!

I would recommend the water / methanol option. But remember, as you are relying on it for everyday driving you need to make sure the setup is ultra reliable and has the appropriate failsafes.

Well that sounds wrong, if you weren't on boost and loading the car up it shouldn't matter. Baby the car and you can drive it on 91 octane easily. I've never seen a car so aggressively tuned on the low load part of the map that it detonates on 91 octane.

Edited by Super Drager

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As you're looking at using a Link ECU, then large injectors are not a problem. But there's not really any need to go 1000s on an RB20 unless you're planning >>600HP on E85, which would seem unlikely. There are other options for injectors. The Xspurt ones are available from a number of places and you can get them in the mid 600s and 725cc, which is probably a sensible place to be. These are all EV14 based. If you are not using the stock AFM (at all, which would be the case with a Link) then a large turbo intake pipe to suit the ATR turbos is not an obstacle, so you should use one instead of a highflow. Results will be better.
    • Hey guys,  I'm after some advice and this here is the best place to get it imo. I was a member a looong time ago under another account, with a lost email address. Its nice to jump back on and see some of the same names still giving good advice.  I mothballed my car when i moved to perth in 2013, and after getting towed across the nullabor a few times it has officially done more km's on a trailer than under its own power. Now that i have started the process of tidying up and modifying it, i see the fruit available (and the fruiterers selling the produce) is different than back in the day. hence my questions, as i used to 'know' what to get and now, i'm not so sure. Engine wise the car (92 gtst) has a walbro 255, k+n, fmic, cam gears and and turbo back 3"exhaust. Wish list is a Hypergear high flow or ATR43G1, Link G4x and some newer injectors before a tune up. My goals are modest, only low 200's power wise. i know i could achieve this with less, but i've been swapping out old for new where i can. Every cooling hose has been replaced, along with mani gaskets, WP, thermostat and radiator, fuel pump and timing belt, tensioner and idler, and i rebuilt the steering rack. Regarding the injectors, the fruiterers all seem to sell what used to be considered quite large injectors. There are a lot of options for bosch 1000cc EV14's, and i would like to know if that is a suitable choice for my build. Is modern injector design good enough to run these at the low duty cycles that i likely would be? is there a downside to running a too large injector these days? or, would there be an upside to running a smaller injector at higher duty cycle? I can see that there are smaller injectors still available, but the ones i have seen specifically marketed for RB's are pretty large (see: https://golebysparts.au/collections/fuel-rail-injector-kits/products/nissan-rb20-fuel-rail-bosch-980cc-1150cc-injectors-turbosmart-fpr800-regulator-kit), and i dont know enough about them to say one not marketed for RB's would fit or not. I have searched the forums, and amongst all the posts on older tech, I did see gtsboy recommend EV14's, but no size was mentioned... again, i'm not clear on if the smaller size bosch injectors are also EV14's as they do look similar.  also, if someone can recommend a tuner familiar with RB's in the Geelong or West Melbourne area i'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance guys. Cheers, Rowdy  
    • FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
×
×
  • Create New...