Lp's Track Pulsar

[Leroy Peterson]

manifold arrived, looked the goods. got it ceramic coated in silver and fitted up nicely. lines up with dump pipe ok, so thats a winner.

also wanted to try red wheels on the car so used some Liquid Vinyl and an electric spray gun. we'll see how it goes

reduced some dead weight by taking out the remains of the rear bash plates (?) its usually one piece but needed to be hacked up for access to coilovers. Providing no further bracing or safety than what the harness bar and strut brace arent doing already.

[Leroy Peterson]

Haven't updated much but stay tuned for lots of news next week + track day (hopefully some decent footage too).

Intercooler piping is done, new radiator overflow and catch can setup, new oil lines and fittings too.

[Leroy Peterson]

this week has been very chaotic. fabricator adding delays upon delays and tuner rescheduling resulted in getting tune done the morning of a track day.

GTX2867 and AM Performance manifold fitted (theres a spacer there too, dont remember having one lol) but caused 2 of the studs to lack enough threads to properly tighten and most of the nuts came loose during the tune.

Piping is now going underneath for a short run to intercooler.

Aeroflow fittings in black and cooler piping painted black. Turbosmart Race port BOV, recirc to 2 vac ports on the throttle bodies.

Custom catch looks the goods. PCV valve removed and fed straight to the can, same with the stock air/oil connection. Can then drains to the block. Apparently there is no baffling, which I found a bit strange but was assured it works well. we'll see what happens.

Struggled to get under the car, so will show some better pics of the new air intake location

Car didnt make it to the track sadly. Tuning was going well, once ready for boost the blanks in the spare vacuum ports blew off so fitted some better ones. Managed to make 250kw at 15 psi

The manifold plate wasnt flat, or bolted up very well so exhaust leak developed as the car got warmer and eventually the threads failed and one stud actually vibrated off the block during a dyno run, so will need to get that recoiled and longer studs with locking washers. Tune has been set to 19-20psi which resulted in some funny graphs due to the leak. So as the leak got bigger with time, the turbo response and torque curved was pushed later into the rev range. Just need to get manifold machined down a bit and maybe ditch the gasket too?

(i dont think the torque figure is correct)

Went to swap wheels over and found the wheel nuts were still stuffed and came to the conclusion its time for new studs too. Wouldnt have passed scruitineering since even one/two of the brand new nuts i bought today wouldnt tighten fully.

Getting mixed opinions on the wheel colour. I quite like it, but some people werent really big fans.

(ill tidy up the tyres later)

[blah_blah]

Haha 270fwkw

Inb4 fixed leaked and 300fwkw

Going to be a monster

[Count Grantleyish]

Can I has ride plz?

[Leroy Peterson]

soon. once leak is fixed. at the moment drives like a lag monster... steadily creeps to 5500 then suddenly at 7500+. lol only happened once and it was unintentional.

While this setup is tidier and cuts down on pipe length, it does seem to run warmer when cruising and idle. I suspect mainly due to less room between radiator and block. Currently looking at getting a vented bonnet, which may help that issue a bit.

just some more pics of piping

[Leroy Peterson]

Manifold getting machined... bitch of a job, but much better than it was.

Lesson learnt: for a quick check of a flat flange, put a straight piece of steel across it and look for gaps dont know what I didnt think of that

Wasnt really happy that a silicone/sealant was used on the gaskets so scrapped it all off.

The other gasket on the spacer side was ok, but got 2 fresh 7-layer metal gaskets because they were the only 2 in Aus, apparently (had to get them from QLD). Apparently more coming in a month or two.

can see the fairly sharp piping leading to the intercooler

I was helping out trying to bolt the manifold down and it was a prick. Not sure if it was the tough steel or the ceramic coat but it was really hard to cut through. Chewed through 3 mill drill bits. Left a rough finish to help "grab" the exhaust gasket.

Was recommended some nice lock nuts from Amron Industries in Rowville, they do all sorts of cool car bits but dont seem to have a decent website. These were specific for turbo applications. Tried to fit some 55mm long (overall length) studs, but were way bigger than expected and struggled to squeeze them on with the manifold piping. Found some shorter Wurth exhaust studs and used those.

Took the car for a spin last night and my rajab. 5krpm is wheel spin in 1st-4th but grips quickly and shoots off. I havent riden in any/many modified GTRs or anything, but this felt like light speed + VTEC from the drivers seat haha. I really want some dyno graphs though, has such a strong top end it makes the low-mid feel lacking in comparison.

Tried to do a video but was pretty bad, so will make a better one soon hopefully.

[Leroy Peterson]

its all been about the wheels lately.

had a seized wheel nut and because theyve been welded in, it wasnt a job to be done at home.

had nothing but issues with wheel nuts/studs since an aluminium rays nut set didnt like extended studs too much...

then this happened to the project Mu's when swapping wheels over...

So im pretty annoyed and in the market for new open-ended wheel nuts that are strong and will last.

Got new T3 DBA4000 rotors fitted, but they have to be machined down to ~280mm diameter and re-drilled to 4x100. Next time will source direct from DBA and see if they'll do me any favours (even a group buy).

Chucked on some fresh QFM A1RMs while at it. Will do rears later as rotors and pads still got some meat on them.

Decided to stick with the red, so ARTZ is in the process of painting them a colour similar to TE37RT red. nice and rich like. that meant peeling off the vinyl wrap, cleaning and sanding down the bronze.

Once done, will be ready to get some AD08's fitted. Got a large Melbourne Car Meet at Caribbean Gardens on mothers day, and then ready for Winton in mid-May.

Also got approached by PT works who want to do a shoot with the car which is pretty cool.

During Easter break fitted a Bee*R rev limiter (to cut ignition instead of fuel like the PowerFC does) which semi-works... dont think it likes distributor/EFI systems, so might need to mess around with the ignition system some more. yay. While doing wiring, removed some old speaker wire from previous owner and fitted a Ecliptech shift light which is a great unit. Very versatile and intelligent. Almost everything is customisable. highly recommend.

https://ecliptech.com.au/shift-i/

[Leroy Peterson]

new wheel colour with the AD08's fitted.

pic from a meet with some other PGA members.

Winton didnt go so well... tyres were great, a vast improvement over the RSRs and well worth the extra money. Will see how long they last though.

Something wasnt right with the car for the 1.5 sessions it was on the track. not sure what it was, but engine sort of collapsed whilst taking it very easy when trying to figure out what it was.

So car is off the road again and might be for a while. Will get it checked out in the coming weeks and come up with the game plan.

First session out, taking it easy, getting used to tyres and giving away to traffic...

I had the camera exposure set up wrong so its pretty poor footageand was beyond saving in post-editing.

[75coupe]

Its looking pretty cool in the engine bay, have been quietly following...

[Leroy Peterson]

nothing to report yet, but got this today

(excuse the 60 yro carpet)

might have to remove the gas struts to prevent warping.

[gtr jet]

How's the motor coming along?

[Leroy Peterson]

How's the motor coming along?

ive been away with work, so struggling to sort out transport for it. But engine guys are keen to get a look at it.

I took the rockercover off for a quick check and everything looked ok, we'll have to see what the bottom end has install.

[Leroy Peterson]

Got car to workshop finally and not inspected too closely yet, but doesnt look too good.

Long story: at winton, oil pressure was very low but increased with speed (which says oil pump was functioning), oil/water temps were nothing unusual, oil volume was ok (according to dipstick and looking under oil cap), no blow-by, no leaks. Something wasnt right, and as pulling into the pits (giving away to Porsches hooning around) the car stalled hard when releasing clutch at over 1.5krpm.

concerned, some SAU guys kindly helped push the car back to the shed. After a fair bit of snooping around, seemed safe to start car, it ran ok, took for a putt around the car park and heard one tick from the engine bay. A few of the exhaust studs were spinning but this was a known issue. Passenger heard it too and we concluded it could be a small exhaust leak developing, so kept the car off the track until a dedicated 80% passenger session during lunch was held. Took is extremely easy on the track (took 2 degrees off timing, watched knock sensor and oil pressure excessively). after 2-3 laps temps started to increase marginally, then noise became regular, then suddenly loud noises + engine light. Immediately turned off engine and pulled over.

Short story:

My thoughts? sounded like bottom end bearings and theyre the first thing to go with oil issues, but cant know for sure until engine is opened up.

What puzzles me the most is that the new engine has done ~2500kms including a proper run-in and a track day in December where it performed flawlessly. So need to look into:

• parts failure (new or old)
• oil system, particularly oil filter relocation kit and oil cooler (being the only parts of the oil system we didnt change (but were thoroughly cleaned))
• oil total volume
• Re-inspect head for damage and clearances (which should give us an indication of the tune, shims and general head performance)

One thing that puzzles me is this:

oil filter then back to block / to cooler and then back to block. I have no idea what it does or if it works.

Anyway, so engine is going to be pulled out and I will keep the shell at home where I can hopefully work on it.

Things to do:

• Remove remaining A/C gear out of the engine bay.
• Inspect existing front sway bar and if it matches a Sentra will be upgrading to this: http://www.progressauto.com/products/sfID1/12/sfID2/47/sfID3/70/productID/416
• New oil filter relocation kit: http://www.gktech.com/index.php/oil-filter-relocation-block-clearance.html
• probably a new Setrab oil cooler.
• Fit new bonnet & bonnet latches.
• suss out car wiring and alternator to figure out why the car has killed a 2 yro odyssey PC680.
• remove/replace immobiliser/alarm system as its shitting me to no end.

I really really want to re-do the engine loom from scratch. currently it has no slack on it, making it a bitch to work on and there are plugs that arent used sitting in the bay as well as plugs missing for auxiliary stuff.

As much as I hate auto elec work, i reckon I could suss out the circuits pretty quickly but would get it professionally fitted/earthed because im not very tidy (and lacking in time due to upcoming interstate work). any suggestions or advice on this? i think the only fiddly parts for SR20DE loom to GTiR motor is some plugs for fuse boxes, but will have to find out.

So im trying my best to be patient and do a proper job but getting this on the road with evidence it runs + makes skids would make me very happy.

[White GTS-T]

Sucks to hear, but I'm sure it will be back bigger and better. That part you circled, would be the thermostat for the cooler. Do you have anymore pictures of how it's plumbed up at the block?

[Leroy Peterson]

That part you circled, would be the thermostat for the cooler. Do you have anymore pictures of how it's plumbed up at the block?

youre right, would most likely be a thermo. i dont have any pics, but the unit has arrows for direction of oil flow, so that was used when plumbing it back on.

do you reckon its worth having one? new oil relocation kit is on the way, so will put that on the firewall, closer to the block.

[White GTS-T]

Ideally you should run one. The quicker you can get the oil up to temp, the better. In regards to the routing of the lines on the sandwich plate on the block, It's worth double checking their orientation. The oil return is the central fitting and the oil feed is the one that's offset. It's an easy enough mistake to make, and it could potentially explain your oil pressure problems and consequent engine damage.

[Leroy Peterson]

Ideally you should run one. The quicker you can get the oil up to temp, the better. In regards to the routing of the lines on the sandwich plate on the block, It's worth double checking their orientation. The oil return is the central fitting and the oil feed is the one that's offset. It's an easy enough mistake to make, and it could potentially explain your oil pressure problems and consequent engine damage.

Thanks for the info, ill definitely check it out. There wasnt any issues during run-in, but it is possible the issue has been there and slowly wearing down the bottom end.

I spoke to the previous owner who was confident it was a good quality bit of gear (cant remember the brand) but I would feel better if there was a way to check it operates ok.

[White GTS-T]

It looks like an Earls thermostat. http://www.earls.co.uk/earls/coolers/components/thermostats.html

[Leroy Peterson]

spun a bunch of bearings (and I thought RB26's were bad ) so engine is being rebuilt... thankfully most things are salvageable: block, oil pump, pistons, 3/4 rods...

But also means need 1 rod (fingers crossed dont have to buy a set) and a better condition crank (ive been told "kunts farked").

I did have big plans for during this down time but have been busy moving house, work, handyman shit + usual crap. So once engine is built, chuck it in, run it in with no cooler/relocation kit... then connect up new oil filter relocation kit and old cooler, gonna source some mechanical oil pressure gauges and check different parts of the motor (just for informations sake and to see if its all ok)

The oil return is the central fitting and the oil feed is the one that's offset. It's an easy enough mistake to make, and it could potentially explain your oil pressure problems and consequent engine damage.

Thanks for the info, it was actually bang on the money. I traced out the oil cooler lines and found the ones on the oil filter relo kit were ass-about considering the damage and the deja vu to the last engine, it is likely this was the cause because the setup was kept similar to what it was... I feel a lot better now that something has been found, other than trying to find it once it was running again. fingers crossed!

The oil filter connection on the block is pretty obvious the return is the offset. Has those spring loaded one-way ball valves (which work)

While the relocation kit is not so obvious. it makes sense oil filters are one directional. oh well.

tested the oil thermostat it was all good

I have also been busy planning & sourcing parts for a Y34 gloria im importing at the moment. So will be joining the V6 RWD gang for the first time. will chuck a build thread up on www.aus-vip.com when it lands later this month. mods will kept mainly cosmetic and maintenance based, but if i get bored or find an ECU that will work then it'll be time for E85 + bolt-ons weweewewew