Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

considering getting a hypergear highflow on my turbo as i want something i can upgrade later on but still run standard boost and not break the bank on a nig turbo.

just want to know if people have had experience with it. already been through the hypergear thread and called them about an hour ago.

just want to hear other peoples opinions before i got ahead and do this.

cheers :)

i couldnt find anybody who had done this before. wanted it from experience not what a shop says (i do trust hypergear). mayb i didnt look in the right spots.

cheers

if youve been through the hypergear thread then why are you posting this. go read it again.

then buy one.

i couldnt find anybody who had done this before. wanted it from experience not what a shop says (i do trust hypergear). mayb i didnt look in the right spots.

cheers

Go back to the Hypergear thread and ask in there! Threads like this will get locked when the mods find it as the info is readily available on SAU.

Won't run well on stock ecu, needs an ecu and tune.

Not getting it tuned may result in a broken motor. Don't do it unless you get an ecu. Hypergear can supply an ecu for a reasonable price and a tune will cost about $600.

So in reality highflow 1k, ecu 1k, tune 600 = $2,600. If you dont plan to spend that much your adventure ends here until you can.

Then even if you do the above just remember thats not a complete package to get the most out of it, just the bare minimum to have the highflow WORK on your car with whatever else it has.

Good luck. End thread.

i bought the standard highflow.

fitted it on standard boost. it works but its not great, buy a second hand greddy emange and have it tuned. i did and i loved it man!

by not great do you mean better than stock but nothing crazy?

i need my turbo repaired anyway which is why im doing the high flow

alright sweet cheers will try find a good ecu. i got people who can hopefully help with a tune

i bought the standard highflow.

fitted it on standard boost. it works but its not great, buy a second hand greddy emange and have it tuned. i did and i loved it man!

as in it barely works. at all.

ignore the 2600 comment. can be had for a lot cheaper.

tune 700.

turbo 700 or less second hand.

emanage blue 200-300.

i got my turbo ecu and tune for 1400 bucks. that was ALOT of looking tho.

as in it barely works. at all.

ignore the 2600 comment. can be had for a lot cheaper.

tune 700.

turbo 700 or less second hand.

emanage blue 200-300.

i got my turbo ecu and tune for 1400 bucks. that was ALOT of looking tho.

alrighty then thanks, so the product is actually e-manage blue? i guess i'll just be on google for a few days. second hand standard turbo did you mean?

Look around for a Apexi power FC. Don't bother with piggy back style ecus. Nothing beats a standalone unit.

You'll also need upgrade injectors (550cc min) upgrade fuel pump such as the Walbro or Bosch, and a bigger intercooler.

If you're going to exceed 220+ kw, then you'll need a z32 AFM.

After all these items are installed, car tuned you're all set for descent reliable power!

Have fun

as in it barely works. at all.

ignore the 2600 comment. can be had for a lot cheaper.

tune 700.

turbo 700 or less second hand.

emanage blue 200-300.

i got my turbo ecu and tune for 1400 bucks. that was ALOT of looking tho.

Who is right and who is wrong here?

Me who is setting reasonable expectations if the person was to buy what was readily available and new?

Or you who is seemingly letting someone get their hopes up that they will score a steal on randomly available second hand goods?

Without knowing the condition of the car OR the parts currently fitted too it, anyone posting will be posting based on opinion only (E-mechanics)...

There is no real right or wrong in terms of the advice above BUT its better to give a worst case scenario based on the fact that it looks like OP is "saving" for it!

I would not use dodgy second hand parts on my car but it is a risk many take, and Plattsy has done so successfully!

Won't run well on stock ecu, needs an ecu and tune.

Not getting it tuned may result in a broken motor. Don't do it unless you get an ecu. Hypergear can supply an ecu for a reasonable price and a tune will cost about $600.

So in reality highflow 1k, ecu 1k, tune 600 = $2,600. If you dont plan to spend that much your adventure ends here until you can.

Then even if you do the above just remember thats not a complete package to get the most out of it, just the bare minimum to have the highflow WORK on your car with whatever else it has.

Good luck. End thread.

Won't blow motor, ECU will just R&R and the car won't go anywhere.

Also stock ECU retards timing on knock.. will be fine.

Will just run like shit once it goes anywhere more than 0.5bar

My advice for parts, just keep your eye open on forums, eBay etc, there's always people stripping cars and you can get some really good parts from it if you're quick. Do you're research. Sometimes you'll get lucky. I picked up my high flow, injectors and z32 from one bloke, did a package deal and i got a great price overall. I got the PFC on eBay.

Half the fun is finding the parts!

My advice for parts, just keep your eye open on forums, eBay etc, there's always people stripping cars and you can get some really good parts from it if you're quick. Do you're research. Sometimes you'll get lucky. I picked up my high flow, injectors and z32 from one bloke, did a package deal and i got a great price overall. I got the PFC on eBay.

Half the fun is finding the parts!

nailed it.

f**k up scott. haha!

Won't blow motor, ECU will just R&R and the car won't go anywhere.

Also stock ECU retards timing on knock.. will be fine.

Will just run like shit once it goes anywhere more than 0.5bar

You assume.

Its possible to overrun the safety margin given by R&R, otherwise we would all just slap turbos on and push past R&R like in the fuel cut defender days. Realistically most of us now realise you don't need to HEAR knock for it to be present, and just because your car is hitting R&R doesn't mean it isn't knocking.

EAD Plattsy Faggsy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks Duncan! Yeah it's street use for me only. Maybe occasional track day. Any difference in noise when running with the two pumps? I would expect the lift pump to be more quiet than the main pump so hopefully not? And yes, unfortunately quite a big price difference to the simple hanger setup. Though I'm usually willing to trade money for better reliability and future-proofing. Buy once, cry once and all that. I'd be very happy to never have to deal with fuel pump / wiring issues again  
    • The old manifold was quite under the GTR strut brace.  The new manifold is quite [unknown] the GTR strut brace. The GTR strut brace was needed to clear the bonnet vents. The Old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. The old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, and the new bonnet without vents. But I am hoping the GTR strut brace clears the new manifold :p
    • On the bright side, at least you knew that it happened and remedied before anything happened. A friend of mine just took his Fiat 124 to a shop for an oil change and they didn't tighten the oil filter housing properly. 4.5 quarts spewed out and even after refilling + tightening the cap the engine has a tick now.
    • So, more pain. The FAST manifold is a little larger than the stocker. This is problematic because there really wasn't much clearance to begin with, so going from 'barely enough' well into 'no' is sad based on the external dimensions of the thing, even though where it bolts to the head is the same. Result is the fuel rails sit a good 25mm higher, and this is a bit of an issue with the wiring that runs behind the motor, and the fuel lines, and everything else. When pushing the manifold on, it required a huge amount of force to crush wiring looms to fit it, sensors like the MAP sensor are about 1mm from the firewall, and the FPR just has to bend ABS lines to be forced into place. After some brainstorming and some sad drinking, the loom for some reason ran from the grommet behind the ABS sensor, then to the driver side head, then back to the passenger side head. So all of this was pulled back and stripped, a few wires cut and rejoined, so that the 'branch' was now on the passenger side's head as below: Before you basically couldn't see anything behind the driver head. This is much improved! The MAP sensor is now pointing up (instead of at the firewall) Brackets have been made up for the rail. The rails are for a LS1, the manifold is designed around a LS2 as it's base. Which of course has slightly different bracketry and water pump clearance, hence the mods people need to do. Should be hopefully mounted tonight. I spent money on a new FPR that is slightly more compact than my Turbosmart FPR1200. The gauge has also been moved to the rail. There's also apparently an ORB to AN Union instead of the adapter, because the ~25mm of the current adapter is going to make the difference. Provided this all goes together and arrives today, it'll be the totally not stressful attempt to start it.
×
×
  • Create New...