Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys I'm looking for a way to tune my s1 stagea

It's currently running a garret 2871r and 3 inch exhaust but before putting it on a dyno I would like to fit bigger injectors and a z32 afm to maximise the potential of the turbo.

I would like to know if anyone has heard of using a rb20 gts4 auto ecu and installing a nistune board to tune a stagea?

I used this method to nistune an old r33 but am unsure if the gts4 ecu will play around with the 4wd system in the stagea.

I would think its not the awd but the auto you have to worry about. The Attessa has a seperate ecu but the S1 stagea ecu contains the auto ecu - don't know what the story is with the R32GTS4. Your best bet may be to piggy-back an E-manage ecu.

I've spoken with my tuner this morning who works alongside the development of nistune and he's going to talk with them and find out if it's possible. I wonder if the transmissions are much different between the 32 and stagea.

Pretty sure you just need the R32 gtst ecu from an AUTO.

Nistune that board.

Then the hard part is rewiring the 3-lines of pinouts of the S1 to the 2-lines of pinouts to the R32.

Keep in mind that there are wiring differences in S1 ecu's.......

I bought a wiring loom already done with a 32 ecu. It started ran and drove but was too lumpy for my mods. Double checked the wiring and everything looked fine, but i had my doubts because the way it was wired didn't make sense to me. But I tried it in good faith.

It should never have been sold to anyone and should have been thrown away

Took it to get tuned and he said he would check the wiring too but once on the dyno it melted 6 coilpacks. Took it home and cut all the wires and marked them and triple checked the wiring. It all went to where it should. But still didn't make sense on why it was wired like it was (really messy) ((like really messy))

I wouldn't bother with a nistune and I'd go a brand new piggy back.

If you really want you can have the ecu and wiring loom for 100. I was going to throw it away and sell the ecu for 100.

I bought a wiring loom already done with a 32 ecu. It started ran and drove but was too lumpy for my mods. Double checked the wiring and everything looked fine, but i had my doubts because the way it was wired didn't make sense to me. But I tried it in good faith.

It should never have been sold to anyone and should have been thrown away

Took it to get tuned and he said he would check the wiring too but once on the dyno it melted 6 coilpacks. Took it home and cut all the wires and marked them and triple checked the wiring. It all went to where it should. But still didn't make sense on why it was wired like it was (really messy) ((like really messy))

I wouldn't bother with a nistune and I'd go a brand new piggy back.

If you really want you can have the ecu and wiring loom for 100. I was going to throw it away and sell the ecu for 100.

Very well explained....as I was going to think bout nistune as well till this happened

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...