Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, I have been searching online for anyone with an in-bay set up but no luck. Im assuming the shroud needs to be trimmed and obviously radiator pushed toward the engine.

I will be running a greddy forward facing plenum so piping should be easy once mounted.

I am aiming for 300atw on approx. 19psi. Does anyone know the dimensions to best suit this set up? Also the thickness of the piping I should run?

Has anyone seen a in bay set up for a r33 before?

Edited by Streetglow
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427422-r33-in-bay-intercooler-setup/
Share on other sites

i have one, but I removed AC condensor and put the cooler there so it sits directly infront of the radiator...works well.. it is possible to relocate the AC condensor if you wish to keep it..putting an intercooler behind the radiator is never going to be ideal, plus it means removing the fan and using electrics ones but the standard clutch fan is the best way to cool it...

..2.5 inch piping will see you 300kws+ no worries...

28032011446_zps96679dc6.jpg

Appreciate the reply. That looks good.... was there any cutting of any metal to get that to fit? Looks like the bonnet latch support has been trimmed?

Have you relocated your aircon or leaving it out?

2.5 wont be restrictive? 2.75 ? Eh I'm just real picky about this stuff

Edited by Streetglow

Always been a big fan of the above style I/C setup and if I had the funds Ide do it on my own car.

Have not seen it before on an R33 but have seen it on a Nigel Petrie's really popular S13 (the only s13 I like, its really well done).

Just google his name and car, theres build threads out there and im sure he has info on what he did. Would be a similar job for an R33 I imagine.

Pics

Silvia0031.jpg

nigel3.jpg

P7290720.jpg

S13 looks mint...i have more pics of mine Somewhere if I can find them...

there was no cutting of metal at all actually..the latch support was bent slightly with a spacer on the bottom bolt and the cooler in/outlets had to be modded of course but the cooler I had (300x600x76) squeezed in there beautifully...i didn't bother putting AC back in...,

Looks great, I've been following Nigel for a while now on Facebook and he has does some insane fabrication.

If there was no cutting of any metal looks like I'll be setting my cooler up in the same spot. Can you purchase coolers with inlets facing in like that or does it have to be a custom job?

its always going to be piss easy to do with a 4cyln engine..

very difficult with an RB if you want to retain ac and the likes.

not really...custom endtanks were a bit of work but easy if your handy with a welder...apart from that all we did was bend the radiator and its support in a few mm at either side for pipe clearance... AC condenser could be mounted in front or maybe even behind the radiator..or better yet just buy a smaller AC condenser unit and mount it elsewhere...

your average skyline has about 3 metres of cooling piping with around 10 bends...with a front face plenum my setup would have less than a metre of piping with 2 bends...its a huge difference...

if anyone wants one we can easily make a kit up..:thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I figured out what’s wrong. It’s something to do with the high beam wire short circuiting. When I measure the continuity with a multimeter on the headlight socket connector it gives me a continuous beeping noise when I put it on the ground socket and also on the high beam socket.  On the passenger side of the car (working side), it’s only beeping when the probe is on the ground socket. Which makes sense.  So that means it has something to do with the high beam power supply for the drivers side. How do I trace that? Is it the turn signal lever malfunctioning? The one that also controls the high beam and low beams. 
    • Hey lads just finished tidying up a gtr a bought. Originally from Sydney now living in New Zealand 
    • Hi Guys, Looking for this piece if anyone can help out.   https://tfaspeed.com/products/nissan-skyline-r33-gtr-rear-trunk-finsher-panel
    • How did you go with your problem? End up fixing it. Have a y34 aswell vq30det
    • But if I smoke test 5th cylinder it’s all ok, no leaks  when I try with 2nd it’s leaking exhaust and intake, it doesn’t come from oil dip stick.    so maybe when car was running poorly, rich or sth. Spark plugs were black and covered in charcoal or sth lookalike. could potential contamination make valves not seal properly? is there also a possibility that rb’s don’t have equal performing cooling passages  meaning back of the engine will be hotter than front. Can this cause improper wear if engine was running under load for short time? Or carbon build up could just burnt from 4-6 and is still on 1-3?   I out of my head like really. Timing is as manual crank-exhaust 47, exhaust-intake 38 at this point I thinking about give it a try and make another 500-1000km and check if anything change, if not I will most likely disassemble engine head /or whole engine and send it back to rebuild. It’s killing me     
×
×
  • Create New...