Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gts Weight Distribution


Recommended Posts

does anyone have any weight distribution of the following

stock r32 gts-t (rb20det/manual box)

rb25det w rb20det box

rb25det w/ rb25det box

rb30det w/ rb20 or rb25det box

sr20 w/ sr box

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's fair to say that the difference between 20 and 25 engines will be very small. An inch of block height is not a lot of mass compared to the rest of the car, even if most of it is right over the front axle. You could estimate the extra weight if you needed to.

For the gearbox options....because the box is so much closer to the middle of the car, it probably will have little effect on the front/rear distribution also, even though the 25 box is nearly double the weight of the 20 box.

I know this doesn't really help!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

R32 SEDAN with RB25 & R33 box. 1450kg total with driver and almost empty tank.

Only things that would effect weight from standard coupe are 17" gtr wheels, gtr bonnet, gtr rear hubs.

870kg front (959lb./wheel sprung)

580kg rear (639lb./wheel sprung)

There's a weight bridge in oakleigh that will do it for you for $20

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interesting.

I've had my 32 sedan w/ rb20det/manual gbox, a/c removed. it was 1323 with a full tank of gas.

damn, I didn't think the sr20 was 100kg lighter than an rb. that sounds crazy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's not a gasket failure. AFIAK, there are no gaskets separating the two fluids. If it lets one into the other, it is broken metal.
    • Or be like every R owner on here that swaps to a big single and seqy less then 48 hours of ownership 
    • No. That is totally illegal. Punters are not permitted to buy most refrigerants in Australia. Certainly not old not-very-nice ones like R134a. (I converted my car to R134a from R12 many years ago. I think the Neo compressor I have now is native R134a anyway, so I would have had to convert the gas when I did the engine swap anyway, if it was not already done, which it was). The evaporator is under the dash, and being a heat exchanger is made of thin section aluminium that is prone to eventually giving up the structural fight and cracking. There are also joints between it and the plumbing and the TX valve and so on. Every other connection and seal in the system is a potential leak point. There's rotary seals in the compressor, o-rings and similar seals at the hose connections to the compressor, the receiver dryer and condensor.
    • These are marketed for shops over here in North America. They're called "Bag in a box" oil.  It's not very popular as most shops just stick to barrels and metered oil guns. I've never seen these used or sold for at home use, although the one in the video does seem a tad smaller. 
    • I'm getting some brown sludge in my radiator and coolant reservoir. The engine was rebuilt by the previous owner with forged pistons and rods, and new turbos, etc. I'm suspecting the oil is mixing with the coolant because of the stock oil cooler thing. I read that some of the gaskets can fail and cause the oil and coolant to mix. How do I test if this is the problem? 
×
×
  • Create New...