Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Auxiliary Air Control valve. From those sounds, I'd be looking at a fuel related issue. If cleaning the AAC didn't fix it, something tells me it might be fuel. Its hard to tell from the video but it sounds like its lean popping and not enough fuel at that RPM.

Ive had a number of coilpacks fail on me and most times they never presented a symptom at idle or free revving. I had a failing fuel pump. Car was hard to start, you couldn't free rev it, let alone drive the car without it gurgling, popping and carrying on.

cleaning out the AAC didnt change a thing, it was pretty clean anyway.

and i haven't tried another AFM yet, is it worth buying one to make sure the current AFM is not at fault?

and what do you mean by solder fixing my current one?

and i recently replaced the fuel pump but just with a generic after market one could that be causing the issue?

Did the problem only start after the new pump, or was it there before?

If it's popping at light throttle only then I doubt it will be pump related as it would get worse the further up the rev range.

I'd put it down to either an intake leak somewhere, such as a vacuum hose or gasket. There is always the chance that it is related to the tps sensor or crank angle sensor or even knock sensors though. Unfortunately, it really is a bit of a case of keep trying stuff until something fixes it though. You could try cleaning the throttle body and see if that helps at all.

I'm about to go through a similar battle with my Commodore. It has a misfire when just off idle (such as creeping along in slow traffic). I'm going to start by cleaning the throttle body, aac and intake (already done plugs at last service and cleaned afm)

and i recently replaced the fuel pump but just with a generic after market one could that be causing the issue?

Yes, some pumps don't like the low power the stock fuel computer puts out at cruise and idle. You can try running a temporary direct power feed, or just do the fuel pump rewire with a relay to prove the fault.

thinking back the issue was there before anything was replaced and its what initially made me start replacing coil packs and everything else,

my next step is looking for a vacuum leak as that is very possible

  • 2 weeks later...

Maybe try resetting your ECU to see if it improves anything? As after reset, your ECU will be learning all the new parts you've replaced with?

Or just do a search on SAU on how to reset ECU, it can be done by putting a wire through 2 ports in the consult plug, saves you from disconnecting battery and having to set the radio again

so after all that chasing i just put 20ml of ignition cleaner in to 3/4 a tank and immediately as soon as i left the petty station i noticed the problem was gone, took it for a good drive and noticed nothing wrong and gave it a little rev in the driveway to see if it was jumping like before and nope clean revs all the way through!

im still unsure of why it was so instant, wouldn't it take a bit of driving to remove build up ect?

hopefully the problem doesn't return, im still going to reset the ecu and ill daily drive it for now just to see how it goes

so on second start after resetting the ecu problem is back

heres a better video with clearer sound of the splutter

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AkXuTjv5BQw&feature=youtu.be

any last ideas before i head to a mechanic?

  • 2 weeks later...

The ecu fixed itself - it learned what the problem was and it was happy. Then you reset it. Now it is sad again. Needs more hugs.

so on second start after resetting the ecu problem is back

heres a better video with clearer sound of the splutter

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AkXuTjv5BQw&feature=youtu.be

any last ideas before i head to a mechanic?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Unfortunately haven’t taken pics yet after it was finished. All the edges are hemmed nicely, just had to cut holes for the gear shifter and seat bolts and seat belt bolts in the rear. The molds seem like they’re done with steam and a layer of glue on the underside to hold a bit of shape but still soft enough that it’s a good fit when it’s all pressed down.
    • When's the rear mounted turbo kit coming? Needs dose and V8 chop idle lol.
    • I was very unimpressed with how the car came up from the A pillar forward, before I hit things (twice). It all has to go. It had to go, but now it has to go... more. So we finally found the very first Shennanigans with the entirely perfectly setup engine that had no problems being pulled apart to improve on 'was perfectly fine'. Cam bearings looked a bit... stock. Which isn't entirely bad given they were stock and this is a ~20 year old engine. So new cam bearings are on the way because it's somewhat difficult to get to this stage to do it later, and it will trash the block. It was quite unusual that it wasn't done when the perfectly new-looking VCM cam was originally installed by [unknown] What IS unusual is the cam that was installed there was advanced SIX degrees. As to why there is no way to know.. however it could have been @Dose Pipe Sutututu's mate who wanted a larger cam sound but also wanted it to come on earlier to be more usable. This is my dyno sheet with the previous setup - This cam is not supposed to peak until 7000+ RPM, according to VCM. This is what lead me down the whole 'my heads/intake setup is running out of puff and can't support the cam' line of thinking to begin with. Anyway too late now - New cam is in! It could be rather funny if this smaller cam acts like a larger cam because it isn't advanced six degrees. In the spirit of everything is working amazingly - the COMP cam required no dialling in whatsoever. It was about 0.5 degrees advanced, which seems pretty bang on. Any adjustment either way would be further out. I'm told as a chain breaks in it ends up regarding back about 0.5 a degree as the chain breaks in, making it bang on. In the spirit of everything was previously working amazingly - The timing gear that was taken out turned out to be was an N-Motion double timing chain kit, with adjustable cam gear (which is how it was 6 degrees advanced) and all looks entirely perfectly new. It also had a Torrington bearing, which was one of the reasons I ended up getting the Cloyes kit which they used in the C5R 24 hour racecar - Because I couldn't confirm what was in the engine when talking to Tony Mamo. I did believe however it was a Double chain kit of some kind... but found no supporting documentation or evidence for it.
    • I recently did this to my R33 with the full set from Car Mats Direct, they can't do the vinyl anymore that's advertised on the website due to a supplier issue so I ended up with the Black Loop Pile which looks great. I went all out with rubber sound deadening sheets from Repco and also added the sound deadening foam layer option with the carpet. Makes a world of difference and got rid of all the weird smells in the 29 year old interior. It was a bit of work but I'd 100% recommend it, Car Mats Direct had awesome customer service and quick postage. Replaced my seats with some sporty ones from Autotechnia while I was at it, feels like a new car.
×
×
  • Create New...