Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have my custom blue 1992 R32 GTST (import) shell for sale after stripping most items off it. There is still plenty of good parts that will be left on the car detailed below.

PERFECT PROJECT CAR FOR THE TRACK OR STREET

The car is complied and engineered for an RB25DET

Car is sprayed in a custom velocity blue with a slight pearl through it

What the car DOES NOT come with :

-Engine and gearbox

-Loom and ECU

-19" Rims in pics (are still for sale)

-Electronics/Guages

-Front bar

What the car DOES come with

-Set of stock GTST rims (need new tyres)

-Full interior

-Brakes

-Diff

-Fuel lines/pump

-Tailshaft

-Full whiteline suspension kit

-Bilstein shocks

-Body kit minus front bar

JUST DROP IN YOUR ENGINE AND GEARBOX AND YOU HAVE A WELL BALANCED STREET MODDED SKYLINE THAT TURNS HEADS

Car had spent most of its days in the garage and is in pretty good condition for its age. The car is currently unregistered due to it not being driven but has been fully engineered so new owner will have minimal problems with the authorities.

Make: Nissan
Model: Skyline R32 GTST
Engine: Nil

Year: 1992
Km's: 128,000kms
Location: Blue Mountains, West of Sydney
Colour: Custom Velocity Blue (Has light pearl through paint)
Rego: Unregistered
Transmission: 5 speed manual
Price: $5000 ONO
Contact: PM or post in thread. 0429098883



*Suspension kit is a full Whiteline works package with swaybars, Bilstein shocks, lowered springs, alignment bushes etc.
*HICAS locking kit
*Diff is Modified and LSD
* Tinted windows
* GTR side skirts and rear pods
* All guards have been rolled to accommodate wider Offset wheels


I am sure there is more, but that is the major stuff and I will list anything more when I remember

There is a range of spares and stock parts that will go with the car and the new owner is quite welcome to take it all away.

Looking for around 5k due to all the good stuff still left on the car and the fact that it is good to go for a RB25 but I am negotiable so come take a look and make an offer.

post-23286-0-39518900-1372575142_thumb.jpg

post-23286-0-93853000-1372575211_thumb.jpg

post-23286-0-63482300-1372575471_thumb.jpg

post-23286-0-93739200-1372575493_thumb.jpg

post-23286-0-82138200-1372575498_thumb.jpg

post-23286-0-65678900-1372575512_thumb.jpg

post-23286-0-36669700-1372575526_thumb.jpg



  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

It's got more than 4 k worth of gear not including the shell and complied for an rb25 mate so how bout you shut your face and not post unless your interested

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...