Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

recently bought a purple 34 that was a bit more project then i planned, i am selling at $6000

It has a few scratches and a busted front bumper, other then that it runs fine

has 180000k on it

and comes with a new frp front bumper to be fitted

i can forward pics on request and feel free to make an offer 0477409238

Regards,

joel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427893-for-sale-r34-gt-t-1998/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

lol, cmon man, try atleast a little bit.

This. Posts like this reek of illegitimacy. You're over the car, you're trying to sell it, provide pictures to make the sale go faster? Perhaps my logic needs a tune.

As was said, more details needed.

Pics for starters and not just the front end, interiorm shots from all sides, engine bay etc.

Then any other info on the car like perhaps a mods list, transmission type, any rego, listed as written off, etc etc.

  • 2 weeks later...

sorry guys i cant post pics as i have a shit house phone

i have been away from internet access for a bit..

the car doesn't have any full on issues it just has some sort of boost leak causing a loud whistling noise upon acceleration other then that it has a busted front bar, but i am including a new frp front bar of the same style not sprays or fitted though

the car is a manual

is not listed as written off but does not have rego atm

and in the case of mods it has a turbosmart manual boost controller (installed) and a turbosmart bov (not installed)

i lost my mining job suddenly last year and decided to study so you could imagine i pretty much have to sell it cos to me its another cost dragging me down

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Given by the sheer number of questions about offset, absolutely not. If you had the information formatted this way: Space from R34 GTT hub to outer arch = 100mm Space from R34 GTT inner hub to nearest suspension arm = 90mm. (making this up) Buying a wheel that was advertised as Enkei RPZ5 Diameter 18in Width 9 Distance to arch = 84mm Distance to suspension arm = 76mm 100% of people would know instantly if it fits. They would absolutely also know instantly how close it fits too, and no questions would need to be asked. You would know you would have 16mm from the guard and 14mm from the suspension arm.
    • Ah ok, for example for the apexi ecu I heard that it's pretty limited with the information it can give you. Also not sure why Nissan used the consult port over the obd2, what the idea there was.
    • Diagnosing with and without is mostly the same. You need to know, as Duncan asked, and what conditions. Car hot, cold, idling, driving, if while driving what rpms, is when you're varying, or is it when held constant.   From there it's understanding what can be causing it. Starting with pretending all of the sensors are correct. Which means if it's going rich, why would it be thinking more air is going in than it is, and under what conditions. So things like if only when under boost, it could be be a loose intake piping joint. It's just understanding the system, and understanding when/how the problem occurs, and then if it's only occuring in specific scenarios, what can be causing it.   ECU specifically, if it's aftermarket, it'll have software you can use, for the Skylines on factory ECU, there is Nissan Consult you can use. Most ECUs have a way to get data from them.
    • How do you go about diagnosing ecu's that don't have data logging, is it more experience at that point and just trying out things that you think will fix the issue?
    • Stock O2 are basically useless beyond anything at stoich. Any misfire will also be seen as lean. The stock O2 also read a collective exhaust gas volume, not each cylinder. Sputtering and missing means not each cycle is firing, and some are. Which means even if rich, as shit, on cylinders as they miss, they'll read lean, but the cylinders that did fire will read rich, and combined, well, they can read anything from rich to lean.   Start with the basics before even going looking at sensor values.   Edit: I say the above, and that's coming from the guy with a few thousand dollars worth of scan tools sitting right beside me right now that I use frequently for my job.
×
×
  • Create New...