Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I have an R34 GT-4 and i've wanted to turbo it from day one. At first I was going to go down the route of slapping DET parts onto my DE Neo, but have looked into it and it appears it will be probably cheaper for me to just put an engine complete in it.

Basically I have been offered an engine at a good price and it's fairly local. It's an RB25DET from an R33. So it's not a Neo. And it would be going into an R34.

Is there anything I should know before comiting to it? I know the Neo system is better for fuel and pulls more power, but the power from the DET still out weighs that.

Whats my best option for bang for buck.

Neo all the way. Older engine not technically legal into later manufactured chassis anyway, so you will have some difficulty getting it through your local department of motor vehicles arsehole-fest.

And you need to consider that you will have a much easier job wiring it if you get an engine from an R34 (ie most connectors will be the same). And you have an AWD sump, yeah? So you'd be looking for a Neo Stagea motor as your best option. And then there's the brake upgrade, etc etc.

TBH depending how much power you want will determine what decision you go with.

First off, don't go backwards.... just don't do it.

If your looking in the stock turbo power range, DE+T... cheap and easy, stock DET ecu, injectors etc.

If your looking low to mid 200's and not a lot of track work, DE+T... just add more comprehensive management and fuel system.

Anything much past high 200's or a lot of track work start looking at an engine/trans swap. As suggested above, a s2 stagea NEO rb25det is the best value for money.

Cheers

Justin

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The easiest option might be to just spray a bunch of fish oil in there.  At least that way you can feel like you've done something while you continue to ignore it
    • I'm firmly on the "zero compliance is good compliance" for FUCAs. I'd be looking to solid metal joints even if the primary reason for having them is because they facilitate the twist in the arm. I have never been more happy with the way the front suspension behaves than I have since I got rid of the FUCA bushes. Even the thin little (short lived) poly bushes in the Whiteline adjustables have too much compliance for my liking. It probably won't be long before I have sphericals nearly everywhere, probably including both top and bottom arms in the rear, and I'll start complaining about the increased costs for dental work. But I will be enjoying the driving more, I'm sure.
    • Plus, you'll get great experience in bedding in pads!
    • I have offset Nismo brackets so the fact the gktechs can pivot is less important to me. I have 170mm JIC arms with bushings - but they provide no adjustment and I'm not sure whiteline eccentric bushings will fit them (I don't want to ruin the bushings currently in them to find out). Ideally I want something with bushings + adjustment; hence why I'd like to find a pair of these. Unfortunately they aren't easy to find.
    • @Vee37 How much do you really care about finding these pads again? If your pads are quiet, work well and produce minimal dust, really isn't that enough? If you are set on finding the exact pads again, I suppose I'd do something like this -  Visit your local Jax, find out what brand of pads they carry. If the Jax workshop you previously went to had the pads on the shelf, then you can almost guarantee it will be of said brand.   I'm guessing you don't have the receipt for the previous work and pads. Can you visit a Jax workshop and see if they can look up your previous job to see what pads were fitted?  Still no luck? Put your stalker hat on, find the staff that used to work at the Jax store and ask them. Talk to local workshops, try to find out where the mechanics went to. Talk to Jax workshops, maybe they relocated to another workshop. When it comes to mechanics, its a small world. You'd be surprised how easy it is to track someone down. If these ideas don't work, shit will start getting crazy very quickly.... You could find out every brand and model of pad that fits that car... and try them individually ticking each off the list if it wasn't the one you were looking for.... If you go down this path your going to want to learn how to swap pads yourself, it is very easy, takes minimal tools and space. If you have room to park the car you have room to swap the pads. Plus you have the advantage of making sure all the brake hardware goes back in so they won't squeal! 
×
×
  • Create New...