Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Why?

Just get s1 coils or a s2 loom to go with the s2 coils

This. Unplug old loom and ignitor. Plug in new loom. Sell old ignitor.

(89CAL - is the ECU side ignitor plug & pinout the same as the S2 loom plug? Or is there a little custom wiring required?)

Doesn't work.

When I put the Stagea RB25 in my R32 GTS4, we couldn't understand why we couldn't get the coils to fire. Until we discovered that the Stagea coils - same as S2 coils - didn't require the ignitor.

I think (and I'm not sure if this is right because I havent tried it) that if you change the looms from S1 to S2 you are unplugging it further back then the ignitor so the S2 wiring just goes staight to the back of the valley cover rather then up and over and around to get to the ignitor

I would have to see the main loom plug though.

I thought it had been done before anyway

Doesn't work.

When I put the Stagea RB25 in my R32 GTS4, we couldn't understand why we couldn't get the coils to fire. Until we discovered that the Stagea coils - same as S2 coils - didn't require the ignitor.

Ok thanks!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...